If you have Flycut your own pistons.. come in
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Have any of you guys did your own flycutting? If so, tell me your thoughts on it.. how did it turn out? What tool did you use? How much did you cut? Any special tools, besides the flycutting tool itself? Did you use a tool other than the Isky one?
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Originally Posted by gomer
Have any of you guys did your own flycutting? If so, tell me your thoughts on it.. how did it turn out? What tool did you use? How much did you cut? Any special tools, besides the flycutting tool itself? Did you use a tool other than the Isky one?
THanks
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
THanks
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
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TTT.. Somebody chime in here.
I'm going to attempt this on my car in the next week or so. My main concern is How deep of a relief is safe on the stock pistons? Can I do a .100 or a .125???
I'm going to attempt this on my car in the next week or so. My main concern is How deep of a relief is safe on the stock pistons? Can I do a .100 or a .125???
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We mock up the engine pre assembly and check our p to v and radial clearance in the valve relief's then put each piston in a special vise on our mill and use a fly cutter to cut the valve reliefs to the proper diameter, depth, and angle. I have known some people who have used the isky tools and it worked for them but this is a pretty ghetto way to do things because you are usually doing this without disassembling the rotating assy and there arent any real accurate ways to gauge the depth of your cut. You can mark the stem of the tool in reference to the top of the valve guide once you have the first piston cut and have verified p to v or you can cut and measure each piston and mocking up and rechecking p to v on each cylinder but I think that if you do that once you will probably rather buy the correct pistons next time or just leave the job to a competent engine building shop.
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Originally Posted by dano73327
We mock up the engine pre assembly and check our p to v and radial clearance in the valve relief's then put each piston in a special vise on our mill and use a fly cutter to cut the valve reliefs to the proper diameter, depth, and angle. I have known some people who have used the isky tools and it worked for them but this is a pretty ghetto way to do things because you are usually doing this without disassembling the rotating assy and there arent any real accurate ways to gauge the depth of your cut. You can mark the stem of the tool in reference to the top of the valve guide once you have the first piston cut and have verified p to v or you can cut and measure each piston and mocking up and rechecking p to v on each cylinder but I think that if you do that once you will probably rather buy the correct pistons next time or just leave the job to a competent engine building shop.
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I personally haven't used one but you may be correct. It should have some kind of stop you can adjust for bottoming. Check the Isky website or give them a call to find out which cutter they recommend for the valve size you intend on using. Good luck.
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I've used a cutoff wheel trimmed down to 2.x inches for the intake, 1.6 for the exhaust, epoxied to a set of stock valves.
Bring each piston to TDC and make your cuts by spinning the valve with an angle head drill. put some soft clay into the relief, slice it off even with the top of the piston with a single edge razor. Pull out the sliver of clay and mic. it to get a depth measurement.
It's time consuming but it works.
A stock piston is 8MM thick at its thinnest point. I've heard of people cutting .100 before.
Bring each piston to TDC and make your cuts by spinning the valve with an angle head drill. put some soft clay into the relief, slice it off even with the top of the piston with a single edge razor. Pull out the sliver of clay and mic. it to get a depth measurement.
It's time consuming but it works.
A stock piston is 8MM thick at its thinnest point. I've heard of people cutting .100 before.
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Originally Posted by Rod
A friend of mine has the tool, so I looked at it for you. It does have a collar with a set screw to adj. the depth of the cut. Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by Damian
Gomer are you going to cut the intake and exhaust or just intake?
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Originally Posted by Damian
What tool are you going to use? Gotta link?
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I used the ISky tool...but be warned that my tool stuck down below the head deck surface too far to let the piston come all the way to TDC. This cost me 8 new intake valves (I was dumb and didn't verify the cuts). I eventually had to modify the backside of the tool (on a lathe) to allow the cutter to recess further in the head to allow cuts when the piston was at real TDC