Pulled heads, need opinions.........(pics inside)
07-06-2011, 07:59 PM
#21
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thanks crainholio! i just called the local dealer and they said 121$, much better than 400! thanks!
what else do you think i'll need?
im looking at a slp heavy duty oil pump for ls1/ls6 engines and a double roller timing chain, they come together for 360$ at lmperformance. not too bad i dont think...... are the double roller timing chains what i should be looking at? how hard are they to install?
what else do you think i'll need?
im looking at a slp heavy duty oil pump for ls1/ls6 engines and a double roller timing chain, they come together for 360$ at lmperformance. not too bad i dont think...... are the double roller timing chains what i should be looking at? how hard are they to install?
07-06-2011, 08:11 PM
#22
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thank you everyone for you tips and advice, i REALLY appreciate it. i will do all of it......... Tomorrow im taking the heads to get resurfaced (maybe have them put new valve seals too?) and im going to stop by the stealership and order the headgasket kit. then im going to get started cleaning up the block, drying bolt holes and im going to paint the intake manifold, fuel line, valve covers and maybe even the heads. i might aswell since all the stuff is off already
07-06-2011, 09:50 PM
#25
Are you sure you need the double roller? Sometimes there are clearance issues. If you really don't need it, look up YANK on here in the classifieds. They are selling LS2 chain/sprockets (good upgrade for LS1s) for $72, and you can get a ported LS6 oil pump around $140 from Motor City Speed....putting the total of those two at about $215 or so total, not $360.
Last edited by 66 BADBOY; 07-06-2011 at 09:56 PM.
07-06-2011, 10:57 PM
#26
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66 badboy, thank you! thats awesome! i will definitely go with both of those. i was only going to go with the double roller because it is what came in the combo. the stuff you posted sounds like a lot better deal.
and yes this is a great forum! lots of great info! i love it!
and yes this is a great forum! lots of great info! i love it!
07-11-2011, 04:36 PM
#28
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ok thanks for all the advice everyone! the dealership had to special order gasket kit and they should be here on thursday. i'm going to start cleaning the block and pistons today.
how should i clean the top of the pistons?
how should i clean the top of the pistons?
07-11-2011, 05:23 PM
#29
No need really to clean them, just clean the block really well, if you have access to air blow all the bolt holes and cylinders out really good before you bolt down the heads, the pistons will look just like that shortly after you put it back together anyway.
07-11-2011, 05:30 PM
#30
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$98 at GM Parts Direct:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm
Nevermind, I see I can't cut/paste item result link. Just enter the PN previously stated from crainholio - 12499217
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm
Nevermind, I see I can't cut/paste item result link. Just enter the PN previously stated from crainholio - 12499217
Was gonna say, my Cometics were $80/ea. $98/ea for stockers seems awfully high.
07-11-2011, 07:23 PM
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ok thanks pooter! im going to get some cans of air, i know its not as good as an air gun but.........
bayer, maybe next time, (i already ordered them) thanks for the info though! im hoping to come upon some ls6 heads someday and if i do i will remember to check TR.
bayer, maybe next time, (i already ordered them) thanks for the info though! im hoping to come upon some ls6 heads someday and if i do i will remember to check TR.
07-11-2011, 08:01 PM
#32
07-11-2011, 09:29 PM
#33
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If i were you before i filled the cooling system up with coolant i would fill it with water first and run the car make sure there are no leaks and then drain the cooling system and fill with the proper mix of coolant and water. Coolant does bad things to bearings! Also dont use a 3m "cookie" on a right angle grinder to clean youre head surfaces they contain aluminum oxide that flakes off as you use the pad and also does really bad things to bearings. Didnt know what youre useing to clean youre deck with but keep this in mind. Good Luck!
07-12-2011, 06:27 PM
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bloombox, thank you for the tips, im actually going to have a shop resurface the heads. as far as the water before coolant, i'll do that, thank you.
farmington, where can i get the ls6 oil pump for a 100$?
i was checking out the oil i drained from the car and i noticed the oil drain plug has a few pieces (very small, smaller than a grain of sand) of metal on the magnet tip. it looks like metal shaving and then one little speck of metal smaller than a piece of sand, should i panic
the oil is really black but doesnt seem to have coolant in it but the coolant i think had some oil in it. i use the same pan/catcher to catch the oil and the coolant so i cant be 100% sure it wasnt oil residue leftover but it definitely seemed like to much oil to just be residue.
i'm also contemplating if i should put the heads back on and drive it to see how she runs (make sure the headgasket was the only major issue), meanwhile i can save money, get the oil pump, timing chain, and cam, springs ect.... when i can afford it, then install them this winter? i can technically afford to buy those things now and leave myself pretty tight, im only hesitant because i dont wanna spend the money on that stuff when i dont really know for sure that the headgasket was the only issue. For all i know im gonna buy all that stuff and then need a new block or a bearing be spun or something........do i need the heads off to change the timing chain, oil pump and cam?
farmington, where can i get the ls6 oil pump for a 100$?
i was checking out the oil i drained from the car and i noticed the oil drain plug has a few pieces (very small, smaller than a grain of sand) of metal on the magnet tip. it looks like metal shaving and then one little speck of metal smaller than a piece of sand, should i panic
the oil is really black but doesnt seem to have coolant in it but the coolant i think had some oil in it. i use the same pan/catcher to catch the oil and the coolant so i cant be 100% sure it wasnt oil residue leftover but it definitely seemed like to much oil to just be residue.
i'm also contemplating if i should put the heads back on and drive it to see how she runs (make sure the headgasket was the only major issue), meanwhile i can save money, get the oil pump, timing chain, and cam, springs ect.... when i can afford it, then install them this winter? i can technically afford to buy those things now and leave myself pretty tight, im only hesitant because i dont wanna spend the money on that stuff when i dont really know for sure that the headgasket was the only issue. For all i know im gonna buy all that stuff and then need a new block or a bearing be spun or something........do i need the heads off to change the timing chain, oil pump and cam?
07-12-2011, 07:49 PM
#36
Take the heads to a machine shop and have them checked, and milled flat if needed. Make sure you tell them to keep the milling to the absolute minimum, as it will impact your pushrod length if they get much past 0.005".
07-12-2011, 07:52 PM
#37
On that note, I'll strongly recommend you spend $$ on a Helm factory service manual and spend time getting familiar w/ the engine disassembly and assembly procedures.
Unless you're one of these "school of hard knocks" types that insists on learning things by very expensive trial & error...
Unless you're one of these "school of hard knocks" types that insists on learning things by very expensive trial & error...
07-12-2011, 10:00 PM
#38
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thanks crain, im taking them to a shop tomorrow a.m. i'll be sure to mention the 0.005.
im actually taking auto mech. Engine Rebuilding, this coming semester. i've taken basic engines already and i was pretty positive you dont need the heads off to do a cam, timing chain, ect.... i was just making sure......how much are those factory service manuals?
im actually taking auto mech. Engine Rebuilding, this coming semester. i've taken basic engines already and i was pretty positive you dont need the heads off to do a cam, timing chain, ect.... i was just making sure......how much are those factory service manuals?
07-13-2011, 12:19 PM
#40
www.ls1howto.com will show step by step procedure. I did it without a manual and I've never done a H/C swap ever.... but one definately wouldn't hurt.
Drain oil after first heat cycle....my oil came out looking like milk from all the anti-freeze in there.
Drain oil after first heat cycle....my oil came out looking like milk from all the anti-freeze in there.