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High rpm crankcase pressure = oil pan leak

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Old 08-04-2011, 02:48 PM
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Well, new lower gasket & vent on driver side valve cover & clamp on pcv hose at the TB.

Still leaks, it appears the UPPER pan gasket FRONT so will pull all the front suspension & put that in next.

Main seal & the rest of the front engine cover do not show leakage.

Old 09-02-2011, 03:06 PM
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I added a vented oil filler cap that bleeds high pressure as needed (so claims gm)





We'll see how this goes b4 doing the front seal & upper pan seal.
Old 09-02-2011, 04:28 PM
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Part number for cap?
Old 09-02-2011, 07:37 PM
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12589430
Old 09-02-2011, 10:25 PM
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What exactly is that cap's purpose i.e. what application was it designed for?
Old 09-03-2011, 01:31 PM
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Designed for a wide variety of GM engines for sub freezing condition where the pcv valve freezes (moisture in the crankcase fumes) and the crankcase cannot vent as normal thus resulting in oil leaks from the engine.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/archive...p/t-60187.html

If you read this thread a little spykesta posts a couple of tsb's.



I figure it may help with my leak at high rpms.

I'm gonna do a leak down test as soon as I have the chance, but I think I just have a high rpm pressure issue. There is ZERO leak at normal easy street driving, for hundreds of miles.
Old 09-11-2011, 07:58 PM
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Update

Ran an autox event yesterday and 2 parts of the course were fast enough to be on the (2nd gear) rev limiter briefly and for 3 runs back to back so I consider this a good test, the leak area was cleaned & dye still in.

The "fixes" so far are:

1) breather on dr side rear rocker cover (did not help per previous test)

2) GM venting oil filler cap (not previously tested)

3) I lowered the oil level to full (top of hatch section - not previously tested)

Result was bone dry, no leak whatsoever.

Conclusion is either the venting filler cap or lower oil level or both eliminated the issue.

I will no longer overfill for autox & it probably was never needed as duration & quick l/r moves probably do not trap oil or if they do it's brief & not going to drop the oil pressure, maybe.

Next DE I'll overfill 1/2 qt only & monitor the oil press & see how it goes & will post back here, but it could be a few weeks.

Meanwhile, when I get a chance I'll do the leak down & post that.

Thanks all for great posts.

BTW no codes & engine runs strong as ever so I don't see that there is any vacuum leak issue with what I have done.




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Old 10-31-2011, 08:23 PM
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Upate:

Ran a DE 6 20 min sessions & leak is back. Waiting on an extended warranty inspection to approve replacement of front cover gasket, upper pan gasket, crank pully seal etc.

About 12 hrs labor.



GMPP approved for repair, in the shop.

Last edited by LS6Vette; 11-01-2011 at 06:13 PM.
Old 11-07-2011, 06:46 PM
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Update:

New front cover, both oil pan covers & main seal.

Still leaks, appears dry at main seal, leak where front cover & upper oil pan come together.

Is this some extremely hard area to fix a leak at?

Is there some trick that FSM does not specify?

Arrrg.

Last edited by LS6Vette; 11-09-2011 at 11:26 AM.
Old 11-09-2011, 11:27 AM
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Back to shop that did work. He will brake clean it all up & drive it himself till it leaks & pin it down.

Old 11-09-2011, 01:34 PM
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There is an alignment tool for the front/rear covers and oil pan. I've never used it and mine have never leaked at the junctions. I do exercise common sense when putting an engine together though. I installed one of those caps. Oil mist on my newly painted coil packs grrrr.
Old 11-09-2011, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
There is an alignment tool for the front/rear covers and oil pan. I've never used it and mine have never leaked at the junctions. I do exercise common sense when putting an engine together though. I installed one of those caps. Oil mist on my newly painted coil packs grrrr.
Have you measured your crankcase pressure? I put a pressure/vac gauge on mine (at the valve cover) & routed it into the cabin & did a hard run to see what would happen & the most I got (@ 2nd gear 6k rpm) was about 1-2 psi positive.

I have not got any evidence of any oil/pressure/mist coming out of the cap.

Old 11-10-2011, 07:39 PM
  #53  
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Shop pulled the suspension & redid the upper pan gasket/sealant. He will drive it a couple of days (maybe 50 miles) & ck for leak. I would rather he do this than me have to bring the car back again & arrange for another driver for drop off/pick up.

Sheesh

If I had a damn life I would have done this myself.

What a pain.

Hope it stays dry.

Old 11-11-2011, 02:26 PM
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Picked up car, new upper oil pan gasket & reseal, street tested & romped it a few times (tech) & so far it's dry.

I safety wired the damper bolt.

Will see, thanks.
Old 11-26-2011, 10:37 PM
  #55  
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Dry so far, oh he didn't torque the lower steering shaft to steering rack clamp bolt so my steering got all hinky until I torqued it. Rechecked all the sub frame & steering rack & suspension bolts & witness marked them.

Sigh.
Old 02-09-2012, 08:21 PM
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Still dry, no track day yet. I guess he just botched the first repair.




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