On a stock 10 bolt though aren't they kind of iffy reliability wise or is that just the 10 bolt itself or would 4.10's just make the 10 bolt that much more less reliable?

 

I would leave the gears alone since you drive highway a lot.

Do full exhaust, lid, and LS6 intake and ported TB.

You do know minus a couple degrees in exhaust and intake duration in the two cams, heads, and intake are the only things different between the motor in your car and the motor in a Z06. I know the power to weight is a lot different, but you can make that SS just as fast if not a lot faster than a vette.

You are probably hot rodding the crap out of it to get 22mpg on the highway. I get 23-24 with a 4 spd OD auto, 3.55's and 625rwhp on the highway and 16-18 in town. Granted this is staying out of it, but this is what you should be getting at the LEAST.

 

^ Wow, 625rwhp on the stock bottom end, NICE! How long you been running with that much power?

 

O2's can perform poorly and not trigger a check engine light. It's worth considering. You should swap out the fuel filter as stated above. Being that you work at a shop it'll take you less than 5 minutes.

 

They are perfectly fine as long as you are not beating the car to death all the time. All my M6 10 bolt rear ends that I have built for people have held up fine, with plenty of trips down the track.

 

Since I drive pretty much nothing but highway I better stick with the stock gears. I did find a shop thats only 100 miles away that does dyno tunes. I'm going to look for an intake today. One other thing that might have something to do with my bad mpg is that when the tank is full I smell gas really bad on the outside of the car until its down to about 3/4 tank then the smell goes away. I might have a breather or something messed up. Never seen anything like it before so I'm confused.

 

I don't understand putting money in something to get rid of it...that's my advice. If your not gunna have it long don't waste your money.

 

^ Fun factor, pride as in not wanting to lose, and some may take it as equtiy.

 

Maybe this is a dumb question, but have you bothered taking it to a dragstrip to verify if it actually is down on power? I was disappointed in the SOTP feel of my car when I first got it and thought that maybe I had a lemon (although it was just a year old with 28k on the clock). My first trip to the strip confirmed that the butt dyno is highly unreliable.

 

I think that stock any LS1 powered Camaro/Firebird leaves quite a bit on the table. My Formula is stock and it never has really felt that fast to me, but fast to me coming from bikes is on the absolute edge. My Formula doesn't seem to really get going until after 3500rpms and then pulls decent until the end. The guy who said you need to get used to the shifts is correct because the better you shift the faster the car feels.

 

Today was my first chance to drive around in city type driving since I've had it. Since the windows were down I noticed that when you are in either 1st or 2nd and then get on the throttle while its kind of lugging it knocks alittle bit. I'm only running 85.5 octance could that be causing the slight knocking. Looks like my mpg really sucked to day but I wasn't really taking it easy on it. Liek I said the pipes are pretty black so I'm sure it needs a tune really bad. I'll get it to a shop within the next month or so. I'm guessing they will charge around $400-500 for dyno tuning but I wouldn't know because I've never had it done before. Regardless if I sell the car or not I want it looking and running superb so the next owner feels better about the purchase and doesn't have any reasons to jew me down. I'll probably pay a bodyshop $200 to buff it out real nice but it will make a huge differance on looks. Instead of a Z06 I'm now leaning towards a Silverado 1500 with a 408/turbo setup. Nothing like 700+ rwhp when everyone assumes its only 250hp.

 

Holy ****... and you wonder why she feels like a slug?

 

Running the bad gas should put you to a less aggressive timing table which will cause reduced power. Run some good stuff through it and see how she does.

 

[QUOTE=FORD KILLER;15187470]I noticed that when you are in either 1st or 2nd and then get on the throttle while its kind of lugging it knocks alittle bit. I'm only running 85.5 octance could that be causing the slight knocking. Looks like my mpg really sucked to day.

I don't mean to disrespect here...But! why on earth do people even bother having a performance car if they're going to run it on a low octane fuel to save money..... No wonder you're car feels crap.... Buy a god damn 4cly.

 

:dlol

 

Settle down buddy, I didn't even know I was supposed to run better gas. I topped it off with 92 octane today.

 

Yea sorry mate....just my pet hate...so many guys on an Aussie forum concern themselves with gas per mileage when doing cams etc.

My outlook is, if your going to mod a Performance car, stuff the mpg. We these days are very lucky with ecu controlled fuelling. In my early days we run our carby Muscle cars with around 12/15mpg

 

1. Open the gas door.

2. Look at the backside of it.

3. Unless someone removed it, there is a sticker that says "premium fuel".

You had to be looking right at it when you unscrewed the gas cap.

 

I guess putting gas in vehicles is so routine for me I don't look around for labels to read. Upon further lookin though it does say in the owner's manuel that 91 is reccomeded but 87 is acceptable.

 

yes that maybe true but IT WILL hurt your performance and fuel economy it forces the car into a low timing table which which hurts what i just said above.. start running premium from now on even if you mix 93 and 89 every once in a while you'll still get the recommended 91