2000 SS M6, doesn't seem that impressive.
On a stock 10 bolt though aren't they kind of iffy reliability wise or is that just the 10 bolt itself or would 4.10's just make the 10 bolt that much more less reliable?
I would leave the gears alone since you drive highway a lot.
Do full exhaust, lid, and LS6 intake and ported TB.
You do know minus a couple degrees in exhaust and intake duration in the two cams, heads, and intake are the only things different between the motor in your car and the motor in a Z06. I know the power to weight is a lot different, but you can make that SS just as fast if not a lot faster than a vette.
You are probably hot rodding the crap out of it to get 22mpg on the highway. I get 23-24 with a 4 spd OD auto, 3.55's and 625rwhp on the highway and 16-18 in town. Granted this is staying out of it, but this is what you should be getting at the LEAST.
Do full exhaust, lid, and LS6 intake and ported TB.
You do know minus a couple degrees in exhaust and intake duration in the two cams, heads, and intake are the only things different between the motor in your car and the motor in a Z06. I know the power to weight is a lot different, but you can make that SS just as fast if not a lot faster than a vette.
You are probably hot rodding the crap out of it to get 22mpg on the highway. I get 23-24 with a 4 spd OD auto, 3.55's and 625rwhp on the highway and 16-18 in town. Granted this is staying out of it, but this is what you should be getting at the LEAST.
Doesn't that stuff throw a code on OBDII if its a problem? Not being a smartass but I work at a shop and never saw any O2 or CAT problems that didn't show up on the dash first. Then again I haven't been doing this forever so I could be mistaken. Maybe I should just do longtubes with no cats at all. In this state there is no inspections. You could probably drive a 1000 H.P. dual 4bbl carb car around without worrying about getting checked.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
They are perfectly fine as long as you are not beating the car to death all the time. All my M6 10 bolt rear ends that I have built for people have held up fine, with plenty of trips down the track.
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Staging Lane
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From: Making black marks in the road
Since I drive pretty much nothing but highway I better stick with the stock gears. I did find a shop thats only 100 miles away that does dyno tunes. I'm going to look for an intake today. One other thing that might have something to do with my bad mpg is that when the tank is full I smell gas really bad on the outside of the car until its down to about 3/4 tank then the smell goes away. I might have a breather or something messed up. Never seen anything like it before so I'm confused.
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Maybe this is a dumb question, but have you bothered taking it to a dragstrip to verify if it actually is down on power? I was disappointed in the SOTP feel of my car when I first got it and thought that maybe I had a lemon (although it was just a year old with 28k on the clock). My first trip to the strip confirmed that the butt dyno is highly unreliable.
Staging Lane
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From: Knoxville, Tn
I think that stock any LS1 powered Camaro/Firebird leaves quite a bit on the table. My Formula is stock and it never has really felt that fast to me, but fast to me coming from bikes is on the absolute edge. My Formula doesn't seem to really get going until after 3500rpms and then pulls decent until the end. The guy who said you need to get used to the shifts is correct because the better you shift the faster the car feels.
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Staging Lane
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From: Making black marks in the road
Today was my first chance to drive around in city type driving since I've had it. Since the windows were down I noticed that when you are in either 1st or 2nd and then get on the throttle while its kind of lugging it knocks alittle bit. I'm only running 85.5 octance could that be causing the slight knocking. Looks like my mpg really sucked to day but I wasn't really taking it easy on it. Liek I said the pipes are pretty black so I'm sure it needs a tune really bad. I'll get it to a shop within the next month or so. I'm guessing they will charge around $400-500 for dyno tuning but I wouldn't know because I've never had it done before. Regardless if I sell the car or not I want it looking and running superb so the next owner feels better about the purchase and doesn't have any reasons to jew me down. I'll probably pay a bodyshop $200 to buff it out real nice but it will make a huge differance on looks. Instead of a Z06 I'm now leaning towards a Silverado 1500 with a 408/turbo setup. Nothing like 700+ rwhp when everyone assumes its only 250hp.
Today was my first chance to drive around in city type driving since I've had it. Since the windows were down I noticed that when you are in either 1st or 2nd and then get on the throttle while its kind of lugging it knocks alittle bit. I'm only running 85.5 octane could that be causing the slight knocking. Looks like my mpg really sucked to day but I wasn't really taking it easy on it. Liek I said the pipes are pretty black so I'm sure it needs a tune really bad. I'll get it to a shop within the next month or so. I'm guessing they will charge around $400-500 for dyno tuning but I wouldn't know because I've never had it done before. Regardless if I sell the car or not I want it looking and running superb so the next owner feels better about the purchase and doesn't have any reasons to jew me down. I'll probably pay a bodyshop $200 to buff it out real nice but it will make a huge differance on looks. Instead of a Z06 I'm now leaning towards a Silverado 1500 with a 408/turbo setup. Nothing like 700+ rwhp when everyone assumes its only 250hp.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Running the bad gas should put you to a less aggressive timing table which will cause reduced power. Run some good stuff through it and see how she does.
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From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
[QUOTE=FORD KILLER;15187470]I noticed that when you are in either 1st or 2nd and then get on the throttle while its kind of lugging it knocks alittle bit. I'm only running 85.5 octance could that be causing the slight knocking. Looks like my mpg really sucked to day.
I don't mean to disrespect here...But! why on earth do people even bother having a performance car if they're going to run it on a low octane fuel to save money..... No wonder you're car feels crap.... Buy a god damn 4cly.
I don't mean to disrespect here...But! why on earth do people even bother having a performance car if they're going to run it on a low octane fuel to save money..... No wonder you're car feels crap.... Buy a god damn 4cly.
Last edited by ls1 1990 VN; Jul 24, 2011 at 01:59 PM.
TECH Fanatic
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From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
My outlook is, if your going to mod a Performance car, stuff the mpg. We these days are very lucky with ecu controlled fuelling. In my early days we run our carby Muscle cars with around 12/15mpg
2. Look at the backside of it.
3. Unless someone removed it, there is a sticker that says "premium fuel".
You had to be looking right at it when you unscrewed the gas cap.
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Staging Lane
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From: Making black marks in the road
I guess putting gas in vehicles is so routine for me I don't look around for labels to read. Upon further lookin though it does say in the owner's manuel that 91 is reccomeded but 87 is acceptable.
yes that maybe true but IT WILL hurt your performance and fuel economy it forces the car into a low timing table which which hurts what i just said above.. start running premium from now on even if you mix 93 and 89 every once in a while you'll still get the recommended 91
