Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

If you need to check the owners manual to suggest what type of fuel to run, you probably have no business getting behind the wheel of a 700+rwhp Silverado.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

Before doing any mods,ad some new O2s,clean your MAF and do some new plugs. Bet you car will run like a champ!

FORD KILLER

iTrader: (1)

Given thats not even close to a stock powertrain I planned on running a mix of premium and race fuel in that setup but thanks for telling me what kind of vehicles I should by with my own money. These camaros in stock are not even 300 rwhp so excuse me if I ran alittle cheap gas in it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I love people who come on looking for advice then end up not happy with what people who know more suggest. And, the above statement is 100% incorrect.

Metal Muscle

They are 300 rwhp actually, and most likely exceed it a little on a manual. The car is probably slow and getting bad gas mileage because you've been putting crappy gas in it. You might want to take in to consideration that it could matter less what hp an engine puts out as far as determining the required fuel octane. Compression ratios are the important thing there. 70hp smart cars require premium.

If you don't enjoy the car, sell it to someone who can actually appreciate it and buy your truck

(edit)
And also, just cause you've got the money to buy all this stuff, doesn't mean you can handle it. Plenty of people who died wrecking Ferraris, Lambos, and Porsches that they couldn't handle but could buy, could've been saved if someone talked them out of buying a car with 2x the hp of any car they had ever owned before. It's not as if I know you and your history, but if you didn't realize an LS1 would need premium to run well...

216StealthSS

i think i just figured out a problem with my car here, i put 3:42's in my car at 70-75mph im at like 2200-2300RPM and my MPG is like 17, with the stock gears i was gettin 22MPG WTF! it is a auto though.

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

Does the car have traction control?? Is it on when you try to accelerate hard? That could be another reason along with the wrong octane gas!! Also keep in mind that your car is 12 yrs old almost.. It was very fast 12 yrs ago but now V6 Mustangs and V6 Camaros will give you a run for your money stock vrs stock..

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

LOL. No..... they won't.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

As a point of refference for the OP. These 4th gen F body cars would run low 13's in the quarter mile on factory tires when stock. Some would even dip into the high 12's. A 5th gen Camaro SS will run low 13's and high 12's depending on who is behind the wheel. Neither would be considered a slow car. Not using premimum fuel will make a dog out of one in a hurry. Not to mention it will hurt your fuel ecomony too. They run better using premimum and will get better MPG with premimum fuel. The difference between mid grade and premimum is about 30 cents a gallon. If that amount of money is changing your life style then you may be in the market for an econo box of some sort. I do not know what you do in the shop you work in but it sounds like you should not attempt anything more than just washing cars.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Throw some seafoam in the tank and maybe a tune up.

When I got my 00' Hawk I thought it was slow. It had 27k on it and dyno'd 320 to the tires w/ 6speed.

I had never driven a LS1 before and what surprised me is how linear/smooth the power is. IMO it feels different than an LT1. My car puts down 430 to the tires now and I still think it's slow. Maybe it's just me.

FORD KILLER

iTrader: (1)

I appreicate just about everything you said here other than the washing car bullshit. Its that we don't get cars like this around ever. I live in ranch/farm country and spend most of my days doing work on Chevy trucks. Those I know pretty well, but sports cars are no where in sight around here so I'm guessing my car is the first one around me that actually requires premium. I truely do appreciate helpful advice and come here because I trust many of you are well informed on the subject. Those who just want to be complete dicks can just drop your shorts and wedge a baseball bat up your ***.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I never thought these cars were that fast. I bought mine new and love it...it gets a lot of looks. But the car didnt wake up untill I put H\C on it.

Golf&GM

iTrader: (22)

Ls1tech nowadays.... smh. Use to be a place with a lot fewer keyboard junkies and a lot less bashing of new guys. Telling the guy he shouldn't own the car or work on cars because he wasn't sure what gas it would run... kind of like me telling you that you should just stare at your router instead of using to spew arrogance from it.

Anyways....

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, and definitely put seafoam in the tank to clean out the injectors. With only 47k it's done a lot of sitting in its life and that'll help. In my old Z28 with 3.23 rear gear and 18" wheels I drove from NY to VA, with the cruise on I averaged 31mpg, so you have room to improve.

Also pick up a lid from the classifieds, a lot of these cars cam with SLP lids from the factory and you can get one for less than $100. Helps the car breath and it looks better.

Metal Muscle

Well, given this, the Camaro SS would probably be a good place to start with sports cars. First, get all the stuff together with the car and make sure it's all running well. Then, learn how to handle it and push it, get real good at shifting, and it'll seem a lot faster. One of the things that I like about sports cars over trucks, cause I've had a lot of those too, is how well they handle. Mess around with bolt-ons for a little while, you can probably get to at least 350rwhp with that. Then get inside the engine and do all your heads and cam work.

Corvettes would seem a bad idea for a daily driver if you're used to a truck. They seem to have a lot less cargo space than a Camaro, not to mention that you can't put more than two people in the Corvette at a time. They sure are fast though. Good luck with the Camaro.

FORD KILLER

iTrader: (1)

Well I've definately ran the rest of the cheap gas out it and I'm now on tank 2 of 92 octane. I'm getting alittle concerned because I still have a knocking noise when the car is gunned from a low rpm. Is this even remotely normal or do I have problems? Another really weird thing is that I'm 600 miles into owning this car and just today I started getting some real serious worn out front strut type of noise that was never there until today. Today was our first 100 degree, not sure if heat was a factor in that but kinda funny the noise was never there before. When you hit the brakes or the gas its that real annoying bouncy strut type of noise if you no what I mean. The check engine light popped on today so tomarrow at work I'll throw the scanner on it. If the knocking is a real concern how many miles do I have before she needs pulled down? I'd like to go until atleast next year so funding will permit a real warm package.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

The SLP lids in the classifieds for $50-75 are NOT the ones that came factory. The vast majority of LS1 F-bodies did not come with an SLP lid.

A limited number of Camaro SS and Firehawks came with SLP Blackwing lids. Those are somewhat rare and are usually pricey ($300-400) unless damaged or the seller doesn't know what they have.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

Unfortunately the LS1 F-bodies do not have any grease fittings in the front suspension. Try squirting some grease into the front sway bar bushings and end links. I usually do it with a can of lithium grease and stick the straw attachment in the nozzle to get it in the tight spaces. You may have worn struts or ball joints. How many miles on the car again?

FORD KILLER

iTrader: (1)

48K, but it came from Spokane and I know their streets are ****. Any ideas on the knocking? I did google search and it sounds like I pile of the LS1 cars do it but mainly upon startup. Mines when I am rolling at low RPM and get on it pretty aggressively before shifting. Doesn't always do it and doesn't do it unless you get on it pretty good. Still worries me alittle even though it looks like others have this going on too. The noise itself doesn't bother me but i don't want a rod shooting out the block.

sandsk8erz400

iTrader: (1)

Have you done plugs and wires yet? Just skimmed the whole thread and didn't see anywhere that said you have. Maybe a list of everything you have done/plan on doing would help. I had two bad plugs and it "sounded" like the car would knock just as you're describing.

I say, plugs and wires, clean the MAF, new air filter/cleaned K&N, seafoam in the gas, fuel filter, and maybe some of the MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner?) stuff for the top end. Definitely get it scanned and post back up with the results.

TWS

iTrader: (63)

sandsk8erz400 has some good advice in his post. Sounds like you have spark knock. The cold start "knock" people talk about is piston slap which is something entirely different. With 48K miles I would think the plugs would be still in OK shape, but worn plugs are often the cause in these cars. A number of years ago, I bought my wife a '00 B4C from the Colorado Hwy Patrol auction with 93K miles. First time I went WOT, it spark knocked. Pulled the plugs and the electrodes were worn down so much the gap was way wide. Seafoamed it and put in fresh NGK's and spark knock vanished.

Like sandsk8erz400 said, I would seaform it. Make sure you do that before changing the plugs as they might get crap on them from the seafoaming. Then put in a fresh set and see what that does.