2000 SS M6, doesn't seem that impressive.
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Staging Lane
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From: Making black marks in the road
Have you done plugs and wires yet? Just skimmed the whole thread and didn't see anywhere that said you have. Maybe a list of everything you have done/plan on doing would help. I had two bad plugs and it "sounded" like the car would knock just as you're describing.
I say, plugs and wires, clean the MAF, new air filter/cleaned K&N, seafoam in the gas, fuel filter, and maybe some of the MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner?) stuff for the top end. Definitely get it scanned and post back up with the results.
I say, plugs and wires, clean the MAF, new air filter/cleaned K&N, seafoam in the gas, fuel filter, and maybe some of the MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner?) stuff for the top end. Definitely get it scanned and post back up with the results.
You're only getting 22MPG on the highway with an M6? My '01 Z28 averages 25-26MPG on the highway, and it's an A4... I cruise at 65MPH-70MPH. Best fuel economy I ever got was 29.8 MPG on a 100 mile trip, going 55MPH the whole way.
I'd say sea foam it, new fuel filter, new oil change, and get a lid. All of those will help with fuel economy, and get you a few HP.
I'd say sea foam it, new fuel filter, new oil change, and get a lid. All of those will help with fuel economy, and get you a few HP.
New Fuel Filter, New plugs, wires, and run 93 in it from now on.
It is a sports car with 10:1 CR from the factory. Really I don't see how anyone could not know that?
It doesn't make you an idiot though, and people need to help the guy out first and see if he takes the advice given which so far he has when it has been given.
New fuel filter, wires and plugs and premium from now on.
If after you change the plugs and wires it knocks you may need to replace the knock sensors, really though if you could take it to a tuner he could probably tell you what it is doing by looking at the data log from the car.
It is a sports car with 10:1 CR from the factory. Really I don't see how anyone could not know that?
It doesn't make you an idiot though, and people need to help the guy out first and see if he takes the advice given which so far he has when it has been given.
New fuel filter, wires and plugs and premium from now on.
If after you change the plugs and wires it knocks you may need to replace the knock sensors, really though if you could take it to a tuner he could probably tell you what it is doing by looking at the data log from the car.
Before I go the track I put 3-4 gallons of 110 in with a gallon of 93 to get some unleaded fuel in there.
Back on topic, OP, just sounds like your car just needs a good complete thorough tune-up. Even though it only has 47k, it seems like it wasn't maintained well judging by the way you're describing the car. The knocking you're experiencing can't be good either, might have something to do with the gas you've been running through it.
Yes MSD wires are proven. I had a high dollar set of wires dyno'd on my car and showed no gains.
Most people run NGK TR55 plugs. I've ran them in the past and didn't have any problem with them. Take that for what it is.
I agree seafoaming it wouldn't be a bad idea.
If you are getting an audible knock try to find someone with a scanner. Even basic scanners will show knock retard. If you are hearing an audible knock maybe its spark knock or maybe it's something else.
With buying a car that you don't know the history of there is no telling what has been done to it.
Bone stock these cars run pretty damn good and are easy/fun to drive.
I do admire you continue to post in this thread despite all the bashing in this thread.
Keep at it and you will find what the problem is. I would also check the fuel pressure under load if you can. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but a drop in fuel pressure can cause strange problems too.
Keep us updated.
Most people run NGK TR55 plugs. I've ran them in the past and didn't have any problem with them. Take that for what it is.
I agree seafoaming it wouldn't be a bad idea.
If you are getting an audible knock try to find someone with a scanner. Even basic scanners will show knock retard. If you are hearing an audible knock maybe its spark knock or maybe it's something else.
With buying a car that you don't know the history of there is no telling what has been done to it.
Bone stock these cars run pretty damn good and are easy/fun to drive.
I do admire you continue to post in this thread despite all the bashing in this thread.
Keep at it and you will find what the problem is. I would also check the fuel pressure under load if you can. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but a drop in fuel pressure can cause strange problems too.
Keep us updated.
And for fuel mileage. My Firehawk stock except for a lid got 15-16 mpg regardless of how I drove it. I rarely drive all highway so I never monitored that. My car is a 6 speed w/ 3.42 gears. I don't short shift at 2500 in every gear so maybe that's my problem. If you want 20+ mpg city a F body is probably not the car for you.
You will see the occasional thread on here about people getting crazy mileage from these cars but IMO it's the exception more than the norm.
You will see the occasional thread on here about people getting crazy mileage from these cars but IMO it's the exception more than the norm.
48K, but it came from Spokane and I know their streets are ****. Any ideas on the knocking? I did google search and it sounds like I pile of the LS1 cars do it but mainly upon startup. Mines when I am rolling at low RPM and get on it pretty aggressively before shifting. Doesn't always do it and doesn't do it unless you get on it pretty good. Still worries me alittle even though it looks like others have this going on too. The noise itself doesn't bother me but i don't want a rod shooting out the block.
Too hot to feel the full fury of these cars.
Friend of mine had 02 TA w/Lid as the only mod, all else stock, Ran 12.80 @ 109mph
I would use some GTO plug wires from GM.
Friends and I drove a crap ton of LS1 cars from car lots. Some were fast and other were freaking turds. It all depended on how much respect the previous owner had for the car.
Anyways you may want to pull your pushrods and check those for any bends. And if they are black, sludgy and filthy, then somebody fibbed about using synthetic.
Friend of mine had 02 TA w/Lid as the only mod, all else stock, Ran 12.80 @ 109mph
I would use some GTO plug wires from GM.
Friends and I drove a crap ton of LS1 cars from car lots. Some were fast and other were freaking turds. It all depended on how much respect the previous owner had for the car.
Anyways you may want to pull your pushrods and check those for any bends. And if they are black, sludgy and filthy, then somebody fibbed about using synthetic.
The point with running 110 in my car is a safe guard against detonation.
Since I am running boost it allows me to turn my methanol system down a level and lean my car out some to take advantage of the extra octane.
Without a lap-top and HPT on hand right then or having your car tuned for a couple extra degrees of timing you won't notice any gains by using 110 or higher.
As I said I do it as a safe gaurd and it allows me to make about 20-30 more horsepower.
Mainly it is a safe guard.
Since I am running boost it allows me to turn my methanol system down a level and lean my car out some to take advantage of the extra octane.
Without a lap-top and HPT on hand right then or having your car tuned for a couple extra degrees of timing you won't notice any gains by using 110 or higher.
As I said I do it as a safe gaurd and it allows me to make about 20-30 more horsepower.
Mainly it is a safe guard.
The point with running 110 in my car is a safe guard against detonation.
Since I am running boost it allows me to turn my methanol system down a level and lean my car out some to take advantage of the extra octane.
Without a lap-top and HPT on hand right then or having your car tuned for a couple extra degrees of timing you won't notice any gains by using 110 or higher.
As I said I do it as a safe gaurd and it allows me to make about 20-30 more horsepower.
Mainly it is a safe guard.
Since I am running boost it allows me to turn my methanol system down a level and lean my car out some to take advantage of the extra octane.
Without a lap-top and HPT on hand right then or having your car tuned for a couple extra degrees of timing you won't notice any gains by using 110 or higher.
As I said I do it as a safe gaurd and it allows me to make about 20-30 more horsepower.
Mainly it is a safe guard.
. If I could afford to run 110, I would too. 
Yeah, find a used aftermarket catback if dont mind spending a few pennies as that flowmaster is like putting a giant clamp in the middle of your exhaust. Even just replacing the muffler with something like a magnaflow would work and would cost under a $100 and stainless too.
I know you dont want to spend the coin, but an ls6 intake really made a difference up top for me when I changed mine. You can always take it off and resell it too when you get a new car.
If you really want to wake up the car; lid, ram air setup, headers, catback or aftermarket muffler or even a cutout, and a short-throw shifter would be like night and day.





