ls1 cam tool question
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Teching In
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
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From: Rocklin, CA, USA
ls1 cam tool question I'm at the stage where I'd insert the tool to keep the lifters from falling.
My question is how do you get the tool straight to slide in?
The rods are 20" long and hit against the backside of the ac condenser before you can straighten them out.
My question is how do you get the tool straight to slide in?
The rods are 20" long and hit against the backside of the ac condenser before you can straighten them out.
I did the same thing. Flexed it up out of the way; still cracked the line and lost all my freon. I would just take it out if I had to do it all over again
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Wooden dowels bend and they also break. Don't use wood. If you have an assistant they can help hold the condenser out of the way while the METAL rods are inserted. Loosen brackets and fasteners to get as much freeplay as possible so condenser can be manipulated. If you damage a line not only do you have to replace it, but you must also replace the accumulator/dryer. Then you have to pump the system down and check for leaks and finally charge the system. That's a lot of work and R134a just doubled in price recently. This method is supposed to save time and make the job easier not make it harder and more expensive.
Wooden dowels bend and they also break. Don't use wood. If you have an assistant they can help hold the condenser out of the way while the METAL rods are inserted. Loosen brackets and fasteners to get as much freeplay as possible so condenser can be manipulated. If you damage a line not only do you have to replace it, but you must also replace the accumulator/dryer. Then you have to pump the system down and check for leaks and finally charge the system. That's a lot of work and R134a just doubled in price recently. This method is supposed to save time and make the job easier not make it harder and more expensive.
Replacing the accumulator/dryer is recommended if the system has to be opened for any reason. Orifice tube too while your at it. These parts are not expensive. Reason being water(compressed/condensed air) does NOT mix with refrigerant. The result is corrosion inside the system. This is especially true if you live in areas where the humidity is high(around the ocean or gulf-arizona your good). In these areas the air is full of moisture and if you don't swap the accumulator your asking for problems. Don't forget to pull a vacuum not only to check for leaks, but also to boil out any water(moisture due to humidity) and suck it out under vacuum. Remember that if the boiling point of a liquid is RAISED under PRESSURE conversely it is LOWERED under VACUUM. This means liquid boils at room termperature under a vacuum. This seems hard to believe, but it's true. As you pull vacuum the moisture in the system boils and is vacuumed out. You don't have to do anything to help it because your looking for leaks at this time,but getting rid of moisture in the system is just as important.
Replacing the accumulator/dryer is recommended if the system has to be opened for any reason. Orifice tube too while your at it. These parts are not expensive. Reason being water(compressed/condensed air) does NOT mix with refrigerant. The result is corrosion inside the system. This is especially true if you live in areas where the humidity is high(around the ocean or gulf-arizona your good). In these areas the air is full of moisture and if you don't swap the accumulator your asking for problems. Don't forget to pull a vacuum not only to check for leaks, but also to boil out any water(moisture due to humidity) and suck it out under vacuum. Remember that if the boiling point of a liquid is RAISED under PRESSURE conversely it is LOWERED under VACUUM. This means liquid boils at room termperature under a vacuum. This seems hard to believe, but it's true. As you pull vacuum the moisture in the system boils and is vacuumed out. You don't have to do anything to help it because your looking for leaks at this time,but getting rid of moisture in the system is just as important.
