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ls1 cam tool question

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Old 07-23-2011, 08:55 PM
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Default ls1 cam tool question

I'm at the stage where I'd insert the tool to keep the lifters from falling.

My question is how do you get the tool straight to slide in?
The rods are 20" long and hit against the backside of the ac condenser before you can straighten them out.
Old 07-23-2011, 10:13 PM
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youll have to flex the condenser up and out of the way. My advice is remove it. Last one i did flexing it it cracked a line.
Old 07-23-2011, 10:51 PM
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try ls1howto.com .
Old 07-23-2011, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiteaw57
youll have to flex the condenser up and out of the way. My advice is remove it. Last one i did flexing it it cracked a line.
I did the same thing. Flexed it up out of the way; still cracked the line and lost all my freon. I would just take it out if I had to do it all over again
Old 07-23-2011, 11:30 PM
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Wooden dowel rods bend
Old 07-24-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Wooden dowel rods bend
Yeah, but the cam won't!
Old 07-24-2011, 10:16 PM
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^^^Good point.
Old 07-26-2011, 08:47 AM
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Wooden dowels bend and they also break. Don't use wood. If you have an assistant they can help hold the condenser out of the way while the METAL rods are inserted. Loosen brackets and fasteners to get as much freeplay as possible so condenser can be manipulated. If you damage a line not only do you have to replace it, but you must also replace the accumulator/dryer. Then you have to pump the system down and check for leaks and finally charge the system. That's a lot of work and R134a just doubled in price recently. This method is supposed to save time and make the job easier not make it harder and more expensive.
Old 07-26-2011, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Wooden dowels bend and they also break. Don't use wood. If you have an assistant they can help hold the condenser out of the way while the METAL rods are inserted. Loosen brackets and fasteners to get as much freeplay as possible so condenser can be manipulated. If you damage a line not only do you have to replace it, but you must also replace the accumulator/dryer. Then you have to pump the system down and check for leaks and finally charge the system. That's a lot of work and R134a just doubled in price recently. This method is supposed to save time and make the job easier not make it harder and more expensive.
Yep. I just fixed up a 95 camaro with a head gasket leak and moved that line around to much and broke it. Just had to replace the line itself from condensor to the accum, but than I had to evacuate it and recharge it and all that. Good thing I did it all in a shop
Old 07-26-2011, 12:57 PM
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Replacing the accumulator/dryer is recommended if the system has to be opened for any reason. Orifice tube too while your at it. These parts are not expensive. Reason being water(compressed/condensed air) does NOT mix with refrigerant. The result is corrosion inside the system. This is especially true if you live in areas where the humidity is high(around the ocean or gulf-arizona your good). In these areas the air is full of moisture and if you don't swap the accumulator your asking for problems. Don't forget to pull a vacuum not only to check for leaks, but also to boil out any water(moisture due to humidity) and suck it out under vacuum. Remember that if the boiling point of a liquid is RAISED under PRESSURE conversely it is LOWERED under VACUUM. This means liquid boils at room termperature under a vacuum. This seems hard to believe, but it's true. As you pull vacuum the moisture in the system boils and is vacuumed out. You don't have to do anything to help it because your looking for leaks at this time,but getting rid of moisture in the system is just as important.
Old 07-26-2011, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Replacing the accumulator/dryer is recommended if the system has to be opened for any reason. Orifice tube too while your at it. These parts are not expensive. Reason being water(compressed/condensed air) does NOT mix with refrigerant. The result is corrosion inside the system. This is especially true if you live in areas where the humidity is high(around the ocean or gulf-arizona your good). In these areas the air is full of moisture and if you don't swap the accumulator your asking for problems. Don't forget to pull a vacuum not only to check for leaks, but also to boil out any water(moisture due to humidity) and suck it out under vacuum. Remember that if the boiling point of a liquid is RAISED under PRESSURE conversely it is LOWERED under VACUUM. This means liquid boils at room termperature under a vacuum. This seems hard to believe, but it's true. As you pull vacuum the moisture in the system boils and is vacuumed out. You don't have to do anything to help it because your looking for leaks at this time,but getting rid of moisture in the system is just as important.
Yea I did evacuate it and did the vacum. I didn't really do it. I just entered it on the machine and it did it lol




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