main bolts?
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Joined: Jun 2011
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main bolts? I tossed my originals, believing they were as non-re-use-able as the head bolts. But now I can't find any replacements. I found the ARPs, but I don't want those. My bearings and crank look excellent, so no need for a line hone.
They are tty bolts, so you definetly can't reuse them. I did a quick search and can't find any, but they have to be out there
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You shouldn't have to line hone for ARP bolts but you should definetly line hone for the studs. When you tighten a main stud or a main bolt there is a certain amount of distortion on the cap generated from the action. Studs pull differently than bolts so the distortion on the main caps is different.
You shouldn't have to line hone for ARP bolts but you should definetly line hone for the studs. When you tighten a main stud or a main bolt there is a certain amount of distortion on the cap generated from the action. Studs pull differently than bolts so the distortion on the main caps is different.
You 'may' need a line hone, however, it is NOT etched in stone. I have converted several engines from bolts to studs without needing a line hone. It just depends, put the crank in and torque the studs. If you can spin the crank over easily with little resistance, you're good to go.
FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will
change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after
installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed
using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
Not going to deny that I've used this method before but what exactly is "little resistance". Best method is to torque the studs to the recommended torque without the crank or bearings. Then check the main bearing bore with a bore guage. It doesn't take much to be out of the factory specifications. That range is 2.750" to 2.751". I would say that if you are not willing to do at least this check, just use new factory torque to yield bolts, save a few dollars over the ARPs and rest easy. If your going to go through the expense of adding ARPs, your planning on running your engine hard. Then at least take the time to install them right. The following is right out of the ARP instructions in the box of studs:
FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will
change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after
installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed
using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will
change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after
installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed
using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 46
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You 'may' need a line hone, however, it is NOT etched in stone. I have converted several engines from bolts to studs without needing a line hone. It just depends, put the crank in and torque the studs. If you can spin the crank over easily with little resistance, you're good to go.