Keep on drinkin' the magic Internet Kool-aid, gents. Has worked for me numerous times with no problems... Of course, I do check more that the "spin resistance". Just saying, it is NOT a given and must be checked.

 

I'm with s10 on this guys. In all likely hood, the OP will be able to re-install the bearing caps without any issues. The crank end play needs to be setup properly using the correct procedure and checked with a dial gauge with just the center then all the caps installed.

 

I Like kool-aid...has to have lots of sugar though....


When you tell someone this they think they can put a crank in and spin it and know if everything is ok....you say you check it but how is the original poster suppose to know....
"You 'may' need a line hone, however, it is NOT etched in stone. I have converted several engines from bolts to studs without needing a line hone. It just depends, put the crank in and torque the studs. If you can spin the crank over easily with little resistance, you're good to go."



putting the crank shaft in and making sure the "spin resistance" with your hand is not a valid test at all for insuring proper main
alignment.... That is like putting a 4" bubble level on the block deck and saying "yep its straight no need to spend that there extra money at the machine shop"

I agree that it is not ALWAYS needed however if the original poster is asking about changing fasteners he prob does not have the mic's and gauges to check the block himself so he would need to take it to a shop and have them check for him...While he has it there why not spend the extra money and pay for a line hone and be sure it is right...

After mains are checked and verified and the bearing clearances are verified and everything is bolted up....then the crank resistance check is good to verify no binding or hard spots..

Granted switching back and forth has worked for you... Guys on here also re use head bolts, Head gaskets, bearings, Don't balance rotating assemblies, use 500hp parts well past their limits and don't check rod big ends with new fasteners etc....Just because it has worked for them/you it isn't the proper way or common practice..

call any sponsor on here about switching to studs and I am sure you will be hard pressed to find one that says "don't worry about a line hone"

 

Really? Koolaid? You're telling people it's ok as long as the crank spins freely! Maybe you just don't quite understand just how a bearing works or else you wouldn't say something so foolish. Maybe it's worked on some backwoods shadetree engine you threw together in your driveway, but that is certainly not something you want to admit over the internet because for one, you should be embarrassed, and two, someone else may actually take your advice seriously and spin the mains in their engine. If you're so worried about people drinking koolaid, maybe you should quit serving it!

 

It's not Koolaid LMAO it's how to build a motor properly in the real world. **** that shade tree mechanic ****. I can guarantee you the housing bore changes going from GM Bolts to ARP Studs.

 

Obviously you have a reading disablilty. I said (and I'll say it again for your benefit), it IS necessary to check, however, it is NOT a given that the mains will need honing. Of course, if you feel the need to spend unnecessarily, feel free to do so...

 

No, this is what you posted...

...which is what I quoted, commenting that that little gem of retard logic was bad advice, specifically the part I put in bold for you, and it is bad advice. Obviously you agree too. I really can't dumb it down for you anymore than that. It's not like there is a crayon font or anything.

 

LMFAO!

Keep it cool guys, we all have cars to work on....

 

At this point, there are a few people who think I'm an incompetent hillbilly dumbarse shadetree fool, but I'm not worried.
This is just a 5.3, that's only worth $250. I'm not going to sink another $500 into short-block-assembly prep. For that money I would just get another 5.3 and not disassemble it. I may yet do exactly that, but first I'm trying this.
I still have my original bearings, and I kept them in order.
I'm still hunting a set of GM bolts. If you've upgraded to ARPs, and still have the GMs you removed, then please PM me a price.

 

ronnjonn, I apologize for being a party to turning your thread into an "internet bully" session. It certainly was not my intent, I only posted what I know has worked for me. It's a shame when you have some bigots (WIKI: A bigot is a person obstinately or intolerantly devoted to his or her own opinions and prejudices, especially one exhibiting intolerance, and animosity toward those of differing beliefs.) who refuse to believe there's any other way but their own and then start slamming everyone in sight who are not of the same mind.

Here's an excellent example of a bigot in action having a meltdown. Just think, if this man had been elected President in 2000, LS1Tech would in all likelihood, not exist today. For an extra laugh or two, substitute "line hone" for the word "climate" in his soundclip.

I'm outta here, hope you get your engine sorted out...

 

I have no complaint against you. And I'm not holding any grudges against anyone.
I believe in examining all aspects. But once all the information has been presented, then it's on each individual to use it as they see fit, provided they don't hurt anyone else.
I still need a set of main bolts, for MUCH MUCH less $ than a new set of ARP.
If anyone can get a GM part number(s?), that would be my first choice. My local stealership refuses to provide PNs until after the sale. And their prices are far far higher than gmpartsdirect.com, even figuring shipping.

 

Did you notice I posted all the numbers for you up in post 18 in this thread?

 

I just purchased the main bolts from a SD for less than $4.00 each. That's $80.00 for the set as I'm re-using the smaller side bolts. Just need to make sure to use thread sealer so no oil leaks.
Aleck

 

I'm not as diligent about the details of a stressful thread as I am about the details of the engine itself. I apologize, and thank you for pointing it out.

 

Excellent. And thanks.

 

Yeah...take it to a machine shop and have it line honed and the ignorant machinist sends the poor trusting novice engine builder home with .003 main clearance on an aluminum block and the guy has low oil pressure...this has been repeated hundreds of times across the country. Same goes for the cylinder bores and deck surfaces. Most internet advice is not knowledge but something that someone was told. The crank turning over easily does not mean it is all ok but if it does not turn over easily you can damn well bet something is wrong no matter what the specs or what someone tells you.

 

0.0030" is near the upper limit of safe with a truly HV oil pump, in a 350 Chevy. But that's an iron block, like my 5.3