ronnjonn

I tossed my originals, believing they were as non-re-use-able as the head bolts. But now I can't find any replacements. I found the ARPs, but I don't want those. My bearings and crank look excellent, so no need for a line hone.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

They are tty bolts, so you definetly can't reuse them. I did a quick search and can't find any, but they have to be out there

z28241

iTrader: (13)

Why not use ARP's? well respected name in the business..

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

Buy the arp studs,, much better and the last ones you will have to buy. If you want gm prolly have to go to the stealership.

Smalltime

I read that they where not TTY. I re used mine and have had no issues.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

a LOT of guys reuse theirs with no issues at all...

ARPs are nice but you will need a line hone if installing them.....

I have my stock ones if you need them

JS01

iTrader: (10)

Call up Scoggin Dickey they can get them I'm fairly certain.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Beau@SDPC
LS1Tech Sponsor

Hit him up he will take care of you!

Smalltime

ARPs are nice but you will need a line hone if installing them.....


If I just had my LQ9 built. Would I still have to have it line honed???

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

You shouldn't have to line hone for ARP bolts but you should definetly line hone for the studs. When you tighten a main stud or a main bolt there is a certain amount of distortion on the cap generated from the action. Studs pull differently than bolts so the distortion on the main caps is different.

Smalltime

So anybody know where I can get ARP main bolts all I can find is the Studs

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

I have never heard of ARP main bolts.... Only studs... And you need a line hone I you use them for the reason listed above

ronnjonn

Thank you.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

You 'may' need a line hone, however, it is NOT etched in stone. I have converted several engines from bolts to studs without needing a line hone. It just depends, put the crank in and torque the studs. If you can spin the crank over easily with little resistance, you're good to go.

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

Not going to deny that I've used this method before but what exactly is "little resistance". Best method is to torque the studs to the recommended torque without the crank or bearings. Then check the main bearing bore with a bore guage. It doesn't take much to be out of the factory specifications. That range is 2.750" to 2.751". I would say that if you are not willing to do at least this check, just use new factory torque to yield bolts, save a few dollars over the ARPs and rest easy. If your going to go through the expense of adding ARPs, your planning on running your engine hard. Then at least take the time to install them right. The following is right out of the ARP instructions in the box of studs:

FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will
change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after
installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed
using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Checking the mains goes without saying, I have (and use) a full set of mic's, snap gauges, and a dial bore gauge. My last "stud conversion" was a Buick turbo motor, even with the mains set at 0.002, the crank spun over 4 or 5 turns by hand with the studs fully torqued to 110#. If I don't see "free and easy" rotation, I stop and find out why.

ronnjonn

PM sent

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

GM numbers:

LS1 main bolts: 12560272, singles
LS1 main bolts with stud for windage tray: 12560273, singles
LS1 main bolts through block side: 12556127, 5 pack

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That is not good advice. Just because it spins freely does not mean the bearing geometry isn't completely ruined.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

I concur