Newbie to bottom end builds!
Newbie to bottom end builds! Was doing some crime scene reconstruction today with the highway patrol at their garage and they had an engine outside. I walked over, checked it out, and it was a 5.3 complete from oil pan up minus the intake and no wiring harness. Later on, the automotive techs came out, removed the flywheel, and lifted it with a forklift and headed for the dumpster. I stopped them and ask what they were going to do with it and the guy said scrap it. He asked why and I said I wouldn't mind having it. So long story short, they told me if I had a way to get it I could HAVE it. So needless to say it's now in my garage as of today lol
Guy said it was from a Silverado with 200,000 miles and ran strong until removed. They think it has a blown head gasket, but I haven't got it on a stand yet to tear it down and find out.
Any advice on what to do would be great! I was mainly interested in the block to punch out to a LS1 bore and do a 347. Any thoughts?
Guy said it was from a Silverado with 200,000 miles and ran strong until removed. They think it has a blown head gasket, but I haven't got it on a stand yet to tear it down and find out.
Any advice on what to do would be great! I was mainly interested in the block to punch out to a LS1 bore and do a 347. Any thoughts?
What are you looking to do with it? If you want to stay cheap and NA Id buy a set of used ls1 pistons and rods and have a machine shop rebuild it with new rings and bearings. Then use the rest of your budget for a sweet top end.
I have a set of Patriot Stage 2 5.3's on my car now and ls6 intake and custom grind cam. Mainly just want to get this block built up nice. I'm not really on a budget since most rotating assemblys cost about the same and regardless it will need machine work. I'd like to punch it out to a 3.905 which gives me the option of getting a 347 or 383 rotating assembly. I'm leaning toward a 347 so I can use stock crank. Plans are to boost it, but not a ridiculous amount.
Last edited by supersick99z; Jul 28, 2011 at 10:48 AM.
until you pull it apart you won't know what condition it is in.
Measure the bores to confirm it isn't a 4.8 liter motor.
If you are going to go thru it..... you may as well start with a 6.0 liter block for more cubes, better valve size choices due to the larger bore. In the end the cost to build it won't be much different.
Sounds like you got yourself a free crankshaft. Sell the block and heads and then buy a 6.0 iron block and do it right
Measure the bores to confirm it isn't a 4.8 liter motor.
If you are going to go thru it..... you may as well start with a 6.0 liter block for more cubes, better valve size choices due to the larger bore. In the end the cost to build it won't be much different.
Sounds like you got yourself a free crankshaft. Sell the block and heads and then buy a 6.0 iron block and do it right
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until you pull it apart you won't know what condition it is in.
Measure the bores to confirm it isn't a 4.8 liter motor.
If you are going to go thru it..... you may as well start with a 6.0 liter block for more cubes, better valve size choices due to the larger bore. In the end the cost to build it won't be much different.
Sounds like you got yourself a free crankshaft. Sell the block and heads and then buy a 6.0 iron block and do it right
Measure the bores to confirm it isn't a 4.8 liter motor.
If you are going to go thru it..... you may as well start with a 6.0 liter block for more cubes, better valve size choices due to the larger bore. In the end the cost to build it won't be much different.
Sounds like you got yourself a free crankshaft. Sell the block and heads and then buy a 6.0 iron block and do it right
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The 6.0 crank is the same only the bores are different but if the 5.3 is good might as well build what u have things to consider is u can boost a stock 6.0 to around 12lbs safely and not have to change any of the internals but rods bolts
I understand that, but I feel if I'm going to do it, better safe than sorry and just do pistons and rods while it's out
From what I'm reading, just the balance job at the factory is different. Same casting numbers. I just changed my 5.3 aluminum HO from a trailblazer SS into a 5.7. been researching the same thing.. BUT..... after looking at the rods and pistons that came out of it.. and realizing how beefy they are. and realizing how much stronger the bore is for boost. (thicker liner in an aluminum block) If I were to boost it. I would just keep it the 5.3! boost takes care of the rest. 5.3 rod on left. LS1 on right.
LS1 cranks are gun drilled and have a little different bobweight for the heavier pistons. If you use the 5.3 crank you need to have it re-balanced with the bigger rods/pistons you use.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: south dakota
yeah, 4.8 and 5.3 are identical on the outside. Only way to tell is to look at the piston. Like you did, lol. I got suckered on that, thought my engine was a 5.3 until i pulled the head. FLAT TOPS! I guess that just leaves me open for a sick 5.0 LSX build, haha.
