After back to back replies from Patrick G, he recommended a 230/234 111+3. Jus' got off the phone with Geoff who was really nice and took his time explaining how his lobes are better in comparison to XE-R, LSK, XE etc.

Aside from the kit that Geoff is supplying, could someone check my list? Anything you would recommend I take out or add or upgrade?

EPS Cam Kit:
-Cam
-Pushrods
-TEA Springs
-Valve seals and locks
-Steel Retainers

Going to purchase:
-LS2 Timing Chain
-LS7 Lifters w/new Lifter Trays
-Custom H-pipe
-Melling Oil Pump 10296

Gaskets/Misc:
-GM MLS Head Gaskets
-GM Head bolts
-(2) GM Water Pump Gaskets
-GM Timing Cover Seal
-GM Front seal
-GM Harmonic Balancer Bolt <Is this necessary if I'm reinstalling OEM Pulley?

Going On Car (already purchased):
-eBay Headers (DON'T laugh!)
-(2) Single-Chambered Flowmasters
-Home ported 243's (May do a 5-angle valve job through AES)
-TDP Diamond Stage 2 Clutch w/Remote Bleeder

Already On Car (Made 343/361 before nitrous on a Mustang Dyno)
-LS6 Intake (2002 WS6)
-Ported Throttle Body
-SLP Lid
-Strano Springs
-Koni Shocks
-UMI Relocation Brackets
-UMI Poly/Roto Adj LCA's
-UMI 2-Pt Tubular Subframe Connectors
-UMI Poly/Roto Adj Panhard Bar
-42LBS Lucas Fuel Injectors
-Racetronix Fuel Pump w/Hotwire Kit
-Nitrous Outlet Dry Kit System
-Dyno-tune Air/Fuel Lean Shutdown Switch
-Fuel Pressure Safety Switch
-Tick Performance Window Switch
-HSW Bottle Heater
-LC-1 Wideband

Much appreciated!

 

I spoke to him last week about a build I'm thinking of doing and he rec the same cam to me but on a 112. Sounds like a great build.

 

Yes you will need a new balancer bolt. The factory bolt is TTY. Do yourself a favor and get a piece of all thread, half a dozen thick washers and a but and pull the balancer on. Don't use the old bolt to pull the balancer on, there's a good chance you will strip the threads out of the crank.

 

No worries with Geoff,, I have gotten two custom specced cams from him,,, If I ever do the 427 I want,,thats where Ill go again.

 

If you can afford arp head bolts it will make your installation easier. They just torque in a sequence compared to the tty stock bolts.

Also I had ebay headers one time and couldn't ever get them to fit. They hit the k-member and the driver side was against the floor so much the y pipe wouldn't go on... took them back out and they worked just fine in a buddies car. I've seen several hit and misses with those headers. I'm just saying so you don't get to a point in your project and come to this problem without a back up plan.

 

Patrick G & Geoff hooked me up on two of my LSx builds. Their Cams are right on the money. Next build - I'm going with them both again!! I spoke with Geoff serveral times and he is a book of knowledge. He explained everything I needed to know about his cam lobes. Thanks Geoff & Patrick G.

 

Need help! LS1 lifter tray or LS2 lifter trays?! The LS1's are about 4 bucks each (total $16) whereas the LS2's are about 8 bucks each (total $32).

 

Lotta guys go with the LS2 trays,, I did. but to be honest there was nothing wrong with my trays I pulled out, they still held the lifters. I just bought the LS2 ones before I tore into it, so I used them.

 

i definately agree on the all thread rod to put the balancer back on.i just completed a eps cam swap.i put the balancer in the oven at 250 degrees for 1 hour,and it went on with ease with my small air compressor and a impact.didn't even have to lock the flywheel.also i left the ac condenser in.i bought some solid plastic bendable 5/16 rods 24" long.i was able to get by the condenser using these flexable rods to hold the lifters up.they went in the holes easily.pass side was tighter than the driver's side.

 

Must be a popular cam suggestion lol. I should have some dyno numbers on mine next week.

Good luck with the install!