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5.3 to 5.7
#62
TECH Fanatic
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I am in the midst of doing what you are contemplating. I have a couple gen 3 5.3l's (LM7 Iron Block). There isnt enough meat on the sleaves to bore an alum block out to LS1 specs. There is also a difference in the crankshaft on the truck 5.3L vs the ls1 in that the truck accesories have to be used when using the truck crank. The difference is in the distance from the front of the harmonic balancer mounting point of the crank. Then the crankshaft is also balanced for lighter 5.3L pistons. I would think that using the 5.7L pistons with a 5.3l crank would cause the engine to self destruct from being severely out of balance. Its only around $200 for a LS6 rebuilt corvette crank. Then you will also have to take into account the 5.3L heads and what kind of CR you will yield and the valves are smaller than the LS1 unless you were lucky enough to get factory 799/243 heads on your engine which will have the bigger valves.
The reason the 2005 5.3L pistons are floating is because the Gen 4 engines have floating rods and the gen 3 do not (pressed). The 5.3L and 5.7L rods are same part number when in the same generation.
Machine work typically is around $20 per hole for boring but some machine shops may charge more since you are removing quite a bit of metal when going from 5.3L to 5.7L.
I'm doing it .....just because i can.....and 5.3L are so cheap and can be had everywhere. Picked up 2 of them for $250 each complete.
I'm going with the LS6 intake, 799 heads (picked up a brand new set for $400) and flat top pistons with coated skirts ($315). I dont need forged since i wont be running boost.
Its an engine rebuild and bore so it wont be ridiculously cheap like rebuilding a gen 1 350, but it will be strong if done right and you will always have a "spare" block waiting in your nearest junkyard.
I say 5.3L LM7's are like X wifes....everyone should have atleast 3 in the garage...or behind the garage.
The reason the 2005 5.3L pistons are floating is because the Gen 4 engines have floating rods and the gen 3 do not (pressed). The 5.3L and 5.7L rods are same part number when in the same generation.
Machine work typically is around $20 per hole for boring but some machine shops may charge more since you are removing quite a bit of metal when going from 5.3L to 5.7L.
I'm doing it .....just because i can.....and 5.3L are so cheap and can be had everywhere. Picked up 2 of them for $250 each complete.
I'm going with the LS6 intake, 799 heads (picked up a brand new set for $400) and flat top pistons with coated skirts ($315). I dont need forged since i wont be running boost.
Its an engine rebuild and bore so it wont be ridiculously cheap like rebuilding a gen 1 350, but it will be strong if done right and you will always have a "spare" block waiting in your nearest junkyard.
I say 5.3L LM7's are like X wifes....everyone should have atleast 3 in the garage...or behind the garage.
#63
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What You're doing "going" to LS1 specs with an aluminum 5.3L is replacing the sleeves with larger 1's .
The LS1 and LM7 cranks are the same part # just different weight of the bob-weights . So the snouts are the same , when You want to put LS1 or LS6 accessories on a LM7 You need to not only change the brackets and the water pump but the pulley/damper as well .
Speed-Pro 4.8L cast hypereutectic flat-top skirt coated pistons are $180 a set at Sumitt which as I'm sure You know will work as 5.3L replacements . If it were Me I would look for a deal on an 6.0L truck engine and build it up a little
The LS1 and LM7 cranks are the same part # just different weight of the bob-weights . So the snouts are the same , when You want to put LS1 or LS6 accessories on a LM7 You need to not only change the brackets and the water pump but the pulley/damper as well .
Speed-Pro 4.8L cast hypereutectic flat-top skirt coated pistons are $180 a set at Sumitt which as I'm sure You know will work as 5.3L replacements . If it were Me I would look for a deal on an 6.0L truck engine and build it up a little
#64
TECH Fanatic
Another thing to keep in mind on the Iron 5.3 blocks is that the machining cost to get to the LS1 bore will be approx $300. For that price you may be able to pick up a bare 6.0 block, depending on your circumstances.
#65
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
What You're doing "going" to LS1 specs with an aluminum 5.3L is replacing the sleeves with larger 1's .
The LS1 and LM7 cranks are the same part # just different weight of the bob-weights . So the snouts are the same , when You want to put LS1 or LS6 accessories on a LM7 You need to not only change the brackets and the water pump but the pulley/damper as well .
Speed-Pro 4.8L cast hypereutectic flat-top skirt coated pistons are $180 a set at Sumitt which as I'm sure You know will work as 5.3L replacements . If it were Me I would look for a deal on an 6.0L truck engine and build it up a little
The LS1 and LM7 cranks are the same part # just different weight of the bob-weights . So the snouts are the same , when You want to put LS1 or LS6 accessories on a LM7 You need to not only change the brackets and the water pump but the pulley/damper as well .
Speed-Pro 4.8L cast hypereutectic flat-top skirt coated pistons are $180 a set at Sumitt which as I'm sure You know will work as 5.3L replacements . If it were Me I would look for a deal on an 6.0L truck engine and build it up a little
#66
I am doing the popular 53 to 57 bore but my question is about the crank. I need to use the car accesory brackets cause it is going into a s series blazer. So what i need to know is can i run a ls1 crank in my gen4 53 block without any issues
#67
TECH Resident
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You can but why would you? As far as I am aware all the motors with the exception of the 5.3 that is in the Impala SS are all the same as far as flange and crank snout dimensions. Obviously some of the very early LQ4 motors had a larger crank flange, but your not dealing with a 6.0 here. The only issue your should have is that you might not have a space for one of the accessory bracket bolts, but 100s of guys have left that bolt out without issue. Some have drilled and tapped the block for it being the boss is there just wasn't factory machines.
#68
I have a ls1 with a hole in the block, rod poked through on startup, all other internals are good.
I can pick up a 5.3 for 300 bucks, my question is can I use all of the ls1 parts in a bored out 5.3?
And can I use one of the rods from the 5.3?
I can pick up a 5.3 for 300 bucks, my question is can I use all of the ls1 parts in a bored out 5.3?
And can I use one of the rods from the 5.3?
#69
TECH Resident
iTrader: (12)
Maybe...... It depends o. A few factors to be honest. Gotta have the block sonic checked to ensure the block is actually thick enough. If it is thick enough I would reuse all the rods from the 5.3 vs piecing in one from a set of mismatched rods. It might be hard to get balanced if you just mix and match rods particularly if you get a newer 5.3 with ls2 rods. Food for thought.
#70
Maybe...... It depends o. A few factors to be honest. Gotta have the block sonic checked to ensure the block is actually thick enough. If it is thick enough I would reuse all the rods from the 5.3 vs piecing in one from a set of mismatched rods. It might be hard to get balanced if you just mix and match rods particularly if you get a newer 5.3 with ls2 rods. Food for thought.
Trying to build on a budget and use what parts I already have is getting frustrating!
#71
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What I have been wondering is just how big a difference in horsepower would you see mod for mod from a 5.3l to a 5.7l? I have a dead LS1 and a complete 5.3 in the garage. Is it worth the money to bore, balance, etc to make it a 5.7L or should I spend my money on a good tune and make up the horsepower. I would like to switch to the 4.8l pistons to bump up the compression some, and freshen up all the bearings since I am in there. Also, is the gun drillled crank worth swappping to on the 5.3 if the lower end is coming out?? Thanks guys for the information, now back to reading that Truckin article
#73
Got a gen IV 5.3 block, bored out to 5.7. I got a ls1 rod to replace my broken one.
I started taking apart my ls1 engine and the bearings look like new! rod and main journals also look like new!
Anyone ever reused bearings? If I plastigauge check the journals and it checks out, why would I not reuse them?
My goal is a good, strong running engine. Not going to the track. I am putting this engine in a 78 corvette, and using a carb, and a 700r trans. Going to be my daily driver.
I am really trying to keep cost down, during the teardown I found a small spot on my camshaft, looks like a piece of metal got between the lobe and roller on the lifter. Its like the metal is glued on to the lobe. Any ideas to fix or if I replace it any ideas for a budget cam.
I started taking apart my ls1 engine and the bearings look like new! rod and main journals also look like new!
Anyone ever reused bearings? If I plastigauge check the journals and it checks out, why would I not reuse them?
My goal is a good, strong running engine. Not going to the track. I am putting this engine in a 78 corvette, and using a carb, and a 700r trans. Going to be my daily driver.
I am really trying to keep cost down, during the teardown I found a small spot on my camshaft, looks like a piece of metal got between the lobe and roller on the lifter. Its like the metal is glued on to the lobe. Any ideas to fix or if I replace it any ideas for a budget cam.
#74
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Why don't ya'll just run 6.0s more displacement very strong. A friend is running one with forged internals 6psi pro charged and it dynoed at 725. its super reliable and n problems out of it
#75
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well the 5.3 turns on good finally bought hp tuners and started to tune her if i knew now what i knew then i would of bought a 6.0 block but the only thing around here are 5.3 blocks or were..... now i own 2 trans ams lol..... ol s10 dosnt do to bad hopefully have her at the track may 17th she pulls strong with the v2 cam and ported heads. hopefully with 150 shell run in the 6s in the 8th
#76
#77
I had a 5.3 laying around & diamond pistons from a previous build. So the price of buying a block/pistons didn't effect me this build. I took the block down to the machine shop, had it bored 3.905 and bought some forged rods for it. Had all the internals rebalanced and just need to get it back together. Cam I have for it is a 236/242 .601 .610 @ 114. I built her for dual shot of nitrous (200+). Now I've kind of lost interest and might just sell it after assembly.... TS&P said the thing should be a torque monster and should put up strong HP #'s.
2000 5.3 iron block
bored 3.905
Diamond 10cc pistons
forged rods
arp rod bolts
stock crank
all rebalanced.
2000 5.3 iron block
bored 3.905
Diamond 10cc pistons
forged rods
arp rod bolts
stock crank
all rebalanced.
#78
TECH Enthusiast
#79
TECH Senior Member