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Trex guys, what did you down grade too?

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Old 08-03-2011, 01:40 AM
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Default Trex guys, what did you down grade too?

I got a Trex and I dont really like it. I drive my car on the street and I pretty much hate it. I was cam only last year with a mid 230s cam on a 110 lsa and that was a lot more fun on the street. The trex set up doesnt really make power until it gets to 4k. I have to get the RPMs upto around 3.5k to have fun with the car in the corners. My mid 230s cam made power at 2k up. The Trex sucks ***** on the street and is pretty much guttless until 3.5k.

Before you ask I do have the proper supporting mods. Ported and milled(59cc heads) 5.3 heads with ls6 valves, bolt ons and 4.30 gears all in a 00 M6.

The Trex is amazing 4k+! I just need more usable power.

So I want a power band that makes power from 2-2.5k and carries until 6.5 or so. I want to shift around 6.5k to stay with the ls6 intake set up. Ive been thinking about the Raptr cam.

Now that Im done ranting, what have you Trex guys downsized to and been happy with?
Old 08-03-2011, 04:41 AM
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What is your full setup? piston relief?, exhaust?
IMO you need more below curve trq.
Old 08-03-2011, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
IMO you need more below curve trq.
For sure.

00 M6
ls6 intake, PP TB
long tubes,3 inch exhaust with cut out
stock pistons are flycut
SLP UD Pulley
12 bolt with 4.30 gears
59 cc PP 5.3s


I got this cam knowing I would have the proper bolt ons. I got it used and wanted to run it this year to see if I like the donkey cams. I dont I love the pull up top but the low end is horrible
Old 08-03-2011, 11:47 AM
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Horrible how? Does it feel like 4 banger until 4k rpm or like a stock ls1?
Old 08-03-2011, 01:26 PM
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It just doesn't have the low end grunt of my smaller cam. Ive driven a stock ls1 once, don't remember
Old 08-03-2011, 02:06 PM
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Run it at the track, you will be happy then.

Obviously it's a big cam with 240's duration, it's not gonna make power down low, period.

I'm sure with stalled auto and transbrake with a 4k rpm launch would certainly change your mind about that cam...

It is easier to swap a cam than transmission, rear end, driveshaft etc. I guess
Old 08-03-2011, 03:20 PM
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It wouldnt change my mind. For a car that is set up for drag racing this cam is awesome. For a street car not so much
Old 08-04-2011, 12:38 AM
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Id prolly go with a 228/232 on a 112 personally if you want that low end. Maybe even go to a 232/234 like the torquer V2.
Old 08-04-2011, 01:06 AM
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i have a 227/235 LSR cam and i love it on the street. no problem running it and i have the same heads. pulls hard from 1.8k up to 6500. just what you are looking for!
Old 08-04-2011, 08:56 AM
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I'd say stay in the 224-226 intake range if you're wanting good low end grunt without sacrificing your top end.. I'm running a 226/238 598/604 111lsa with 4.10's & power is off idle to 7k..
Old 08-04-2011, 11:21 AM
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I think that this thread is a great reference for REAL expectations from after market cams. Larger duration cams, like the T-Rex, usually act just like the user described, in the OP. We have to be real and honest and do LOTS of research before taking the chance/risk of not being satisfied with the cam choice(s) that we make. It sucks that the user of this can has to downgrade from an awesome cam, but I do understand that the cam does NOT suit your needs.
I have not had experience with the T-Rex can, but I have had great experience with the GM HOT CAM for the LS engines. It has a nice, noticeable idle and a gang of torque that starts instantly in the power band, as compared to the T-Rex. But there will be and is a trade off in peak performance...good luck with your build. Keep us all posted.
Old 08-04-2011, 12:31 PM
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If I were you, I'd look to the right, pick a sponsor and have them CUSTOM spec you a cam to your liking. How can you go wrong with a true CUSTOM cam? I'll answer that for you; you can't. If you're specific in what you want and provide them with all the details regarding your setup, it's going to be a win/win situation.
Old 08-04-2011, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sixt9er
I think that this thread is a great reference for REAL expectations from after market cams. Larger duration cams, like the T-Rex, usually act just like the user described, in the OP. We have to be real and honest and do LOTS of research before taking the chance/risk of not being satisfied with the cam choice(s) that we make. It sucks that the user of this can has to downgrade from an awesome cam, but I do understand that the cam does NOT suit your needs.
Exactly. I love this cam but my problem is I have to be in the correct gear to get the Trex to move fast below 3.5k. The car runs hard, I just dont like down shifting to make sure it does.
Old 08-04-2011, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
If I were you, I'd look to the right, pick a sponsor and have them CUSTOM spec you a cam to your liking. How can you go wrong with a true CUSTOM cam? I'll answer that for you; you can't. If you're specific in what you want and provide them with all the details regarding your setup, it's going to be a win/win situation.
I dont wanna pay someone to give me a cam they recommended to 80 other people on tech.

It seems they either have 3 different cam specs they give out, recommend a off the shelf cam (which can be great) or they just dont answer your pms.

I might just have to go with Predz again.
Old 08-04-2011, 12:37 PM
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Who ported your heads? Maybe the port job was done wrong and it's affecting the characteristics of the cam. I had a forged 347 with a trex and it pulled nasty. Daily driver car that was 485rwhp. It was an LME built 347, sounds like a bad combo to me. What springs are you running on those heads?
Old 08-04-2011, 12:50 PM
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PredZ specd the cam in my 347 and I like it alot. It's relatively small @ 230/236.
Old 08-04-2011, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Cosmos
I dont wanna pay someone to give me a cam they recommended to 80 other people on tech.

It seems they either have 3 different cam specs they give out, recommend a off the shelf cam (which can be great) or they just dont answer your pms.

I might just have to go with Predz again.

First of all, not everyone requires you to pay to have a cam specked out. Plus, anyone who knows their **** is going to take into account EVERYTHING about the current setup you have in order to create a cam to maximize horsepower/torque, etc. I know he's not a sponsor on here, but Ed Curtis custom specked me a cam based on my heads, exhaust, intake, my goals, gearing, etc. I guarantee he doesn't just have three "custom" cams he specs everyone who hits him up. He's a proffesional who designs custom cams to fit each individual application. Anyone who only has 3 different "custom" cam specs doesn't know jack ****.
Old 08-04-2011, 05:13 PM
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I believe that you can not go wrong with a custom spec'd cam. As long as you are absolutely 100% honest with your goals, set up, intended usage of the vehicle and have the supporting mods, a custom spec'd can IS your best bet. But again, you NEED to honest with yourself about drivability concerns and desires, HP/torque goals, what octane fuel you can afford, etc., to make the most of your custom can. I see it a lot...customer thinks that he wants a nasty idle in the beginning for a stock engine...I steer him away from it because he can't afford the supporting mods, (heads, tune, exhaust, rear end gear set, valve-train upgrades) he says that he will mod the engine later, blah, blah, blah, I weigh the pros and cons of EVERYTHING that he THINKS he wants, but bottom line is he wants that bad-boy cam SOUND no matter what myself or anyone thinks. I give him EXACTLY what he says he wants and him and his car get beat by a 5-liter Mustang...now I am the bad guy because I gave him what he wanted in the first place...listen to advice from many, do your own research, talk to true professionals that do this stuff for a living and then make a good decision, based on your true-to-power needs. My opinion and or advice is to get a custom cam, as well.
Old 08-04-2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dgcustomz
Who ported your heads? Maybe the port job was done wrong and it's affecting the characteristics of the cam. I had a forged 347 with a trex and it pulled nasty. Daily driver car that was 485rwhp. It was an LME built 347, sounds like a bad combo to me. What springs are you running on those heads?
The heads are not affecting the lowend. The car runs very strong, it just doesnt have the low end that my other cams have had.

First of all, not everyone requires you to pay to have a cam specked out. Plus, anyone who knows their **** is going to take into account EVERYTHING about the current setup you have in order to create a cam to maximize horsepower/torque, etc. I know he's not a sponsor on here, but Ed Curtis custom specked me a cam based on my heads, exhaust, intake, my goals, gearing, etc. I guarantee he doesn't just have three "custom" cams he specs everyone who hits him up. He's a proffesional who designs custom cams to fit each individual application. Anyone who only has 3 different "custom" cam specs doesn't know jack ****.
I know what your saying. I said that to ward off anyone who wanted to mentain you know who. Almost every cam I see him spec is the same.

I heard Shawn at VA is pretty damn good but he never answers my pms. Also thinking about talking with Futral. I know Ed Curtis is pretty good as well.

I got the TRex in trade and wanted to see if I would like a big cam since I would have the proper set up to run one (gears, upped compression etc) over my low end specd cam. I want something in the middle lol.

I believe that you can not go wrong with a custom spec'd cam. As long as you are absolutely 100% honest with your goals, set up, intended usage of the vehicle and have the supporting mods, a custom spec'd can IS your best bet. But again, you NEED to honest with yourself about drivability concerns and desires, HP/torque goals, what octane fuel you can afford, etc., to make the most of your custom can. I see it a lot...customer thinks that he wants a nasty idle in the beginning for a stock engine...I steer him away from it because he can't afford the supporting mods, (heads, tune, exhaust, rear end gear set, valve-train upgrades) he says that he will mod the engine later, blah, blah, blah, I weigh the pros and cons of EVERYTHING that he THINKS he wants, but bottom line is he wants that bad-boy cam SOUND no matter what myself or anyone thinks. I give him EXACTLY what he says he wants and him and his car get beat by a 5-liter Mustang...now I am the bad guy because I gave him what he wanted in the first place...listen to advice from many, do your own research, talk to true professionals that do this stuff for a living and then make a good decision, based on your true-to-power needs. My opinion and or advice is to get a custom cam, as well.
I totally agree with you. Great post. Thats why I made this thread to see REAL world experiences. I dont give a damn about numbers or how the cam sounds. Wondering about real world power bands.

Heres what Im thinking

235/239 LSL 111+4

or

236/238 xfi/xer 111+4
Old 08-04-2011, 11:12 PM
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I'm no cam "expert", but I do believe that, based on what you have expressed in the post, that the camshaft you mentioned in the above post is a better choice than the T-Rex, however there ARE better choices, in my opinion. You are on the right path though...


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