im thinking about doing a 423 with a iron 6.0 block bored 4.040 and a 4.125 crank will this be safe.

 

If you don't rev it too high it will be a torquey setup.

 

any suggestions on a cam

 

MTI S1 ? Becareful w/ that long of stroker on a 6L though... possible oil consumption issues.

 

I have a 4.060 bore x 4.075 stroke iron block, made 475rwhp/505rwtq a few years ago. I had a Lunati 242/242//114 and then a S1, 244/244/112. The S1 idled pretty rough, I would do a 114 again just to keep the streetability up.

 

I agree 1000% as i had major headaches/problems (with oil consumption and broken reluctor wheel) with my iron 427 motor this time last year bored .060 over and using a new CALLIES CRANK! If your going to do it avoid the CALLIES crank like the PLAGUE and stick with LUNATI as my brand new CALLIES crank's welds broke in several places along with the reluctor wheel and both PRO street JOHN and I can assure you, THIS IS NO FUN!!!!!!
I was ultimately told that the 4.125 stroke was TO BIG for the bore size on my ironblock and that the CALLIES crank was not put together as well as the LUNATI LS1 crank!!!!

ALSO, if you end up going with a stroker 414 or larger then i do highly recommend my MTI S1 cam that i run in my new C5R based 427 motor with specs of 244/244, .612 lift on a 112 lsa as its a great street/strip cam and street manners are pretty good (my A4 has not stalled on the street yet but does like to surge every now and then and of course vibrate my gutters and windows on my garage when she's warming up!

 

damn your like right down from me i'm in lombard.
But what do you guys think of Eagle cranks, I know they are nothing special but would like to do an budget LQ4 409ci build up for a Z28. As for the reluctor wheel breaking does it happen to all callies cranks? reluctor wheels are very fragile i've seen people brake em pounding off brake drums.