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241 heads, porting question

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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Default 241 heads, porting question

my question is about the ramp... do i remove it all together (seems kinda drastic)? Do just remove half of it? do i just shape it a little better? i know some people just sort of clean it up with cartridge rollers while others totally remove it,,,, posted some pics

Uploaded with ImageShack.us stock intake



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i didnt do very much work on these yet,,, just slimmed down the guide boss, removed some of the ramp and tried to blend the drop off a tiny bit. should i take more of the ramp out? seems like my dual valve springs sit right above the ramp. any tips are appreciated,,, thank you
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:51 PM
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Remove it! and make sure you take out the rocker stud lump too. I just got done learning this process. After doing that and gasket matching teh exhaust my 853's are easily outflowing 243's. I'd post pics and flow sheet but im not at home.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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You can take it down a good bit but don't get too crazy, theres water under there.

Looks like you havent done a VJ yet? Are you staying with 2.00" valves?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JS01
You can take it down a good bit but don't get too crazy, theres water under there.

Looks like you havent done a VJ yet? Are you staying with 2.00" valves?
nope havent done a VJ yet, its on the list though... i could use a little guidance with the VJ process (im not real familiar with what all is involved in a VJ). i was thinking about upgrading to 2.02 valves but i dont want to have to flycut and with 2.02 and the cam thats in there im sure i will have PTV issues (of course i will check ptv clearance no matter what size valves i go with).

would i see a big power diff with 2.02 vs 2.00 valves?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Good pics by the way. I know how hard it is to get a good shot of the port.
Here is a pic of my intake port.
Attached Thumbnails 241 heads, porting question-img_4377.jpg  
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 07:39 PM
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Here is an awesome thread i learned a lot from. Mike is a good knowledgeable guy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...6k-beware.html
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Nice work,What do you use to take off the material on the heads.I would like to do this. thanks jeff
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lsxc4vette
Nice work,What do you use to take off the material on the heads.I would like to do this. thanks jeff
a mini air die grinder, carbide cutter bit (tree shape works best), some sand paper rollers (standard abrasives makes a good kit). that's about it. i wear a quality respirator and sealed safety goggles oh and a couple flashlights,,, its fun
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by AGearHead4Life
yes sir i checked that thread out a while back,,, good thread i learned alot from it as well
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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Where's a good place to buy the carbide cutter bit.How many hours you have in your heads.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lsxc4vette
Where's a good place to buy the carbide cutter bit.How many hours you have in your heads.
Check with your local machine shops....they can either get them for you or hook you up wiyh a supplier.....look can look at prices from $18-$50+ per bit so shop around alittle
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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don't buy a cheap cutter!!!! a cheap carbide cutter will give you cheap carbide cutter results and will dull as soon as you start to use it, i think i paid $46 bucks for my longer 6" cutter. you really need two cutters a long 6-8" and a short 3-4 inch cutter. I like the 3/8" diameter tree shaped cutters. I buy most of my stuff from http://www.ruffstuff.com/. good mom and pop company and decent prices...

not to sure how much time i have into the heads... maybe 20 hours

Last edited by 3rdCoastPowerSports; Sep 13, 2011 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 3rdCoastPowerSports
don't buy a cheap cutter!!!! a cheap carbide cutter will give you cheap carbide cutter results and will dull as soon as you start to use it, i think i paid $46 bucks for my longer 6" cutter. you really need two cutters a long 6-8" and a short 3-4 inch cutter. I like the 3/8" diameter tree shaped cutters. I buy most of my stuff from http://www.ruffstuff.com/. good mom and pop company and decent prices...
I second that! I learned the hard way and started out with the cheapest ones I could find on ebay. They dulled on me very quickly. It wound up costing me more since i had to buy them again. I now use the CHA ruffstuff.com as well.

For a grinder though, my 21g air compressor couldnt take it. I even read where a lot of shope compressors cant take the constant use of an air grinder. I tried a electric die grinder, but I quickly learned that you need a low rpm grinder (about 7-15k rpm). Electric die grinders to me where too bulky and awkward, but a lot of people seem to take that route. I shopped and googled around. What I wound up choosing and am currently preparing to order is a Foredom TXH-440 Industrial Flex Shaft. Heres the link.
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/produc...at=3394&page=1
Its not cheap, but I think it'll do an awesome job. I was able to borrow the non industrail version of this from my neighbor and it is nice not having to hold the grinder with two hands.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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One thing I want to try differently on my next head is to leave the material between the valve guide and the close side port wall. The area on the bottom side of the valve guide in our photos or underneath. I noticed after looking at many other ported and CNC'd heads that they all left materail there. Like a tail wing. As you can see in mine I took in down to a saddle.

I also didnt touch the short turn radius beside polishing it. I belive this is an improtant area I missed.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by AGearHead4Life
I also didnt touch the short turn radius beside polishing it. I belive this is an improtant area I missed.
Very important area you can pick up alot of CFM/HP here, you have to be careful on 241's though as they're very touchy on the short turn. Take out too much and they go turbulant in a hurry. I wouldn't mess with the short turn much unless you have flowbench access.

Also just as a general FYI most professional head porters use electric grinders.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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what exactly is meant by the short turn radius???? (what is the short turn radius)

here is a pic of intake port with the bolt hump removed,,, i've decided to keep the ramp... i have seen some people make good flow numbers and lay down the power leaven some of the ramp in,,, so im going to leave it in this time



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

also what kind of epoxy do you use to cake in the hole before you put the bolt in???
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 3rdCoastPowerSports
what exactly is meant by the short turn radius???? (what is the short turn radius)

here is a pic of intake port with the bolt hump removed,,, i've decided to keep the ramp... i have seen some people make good flow numbers and lay down the power leaven some of the ramp in,,, so im going to leave it in this time



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

also what kind of epoxy do you use to cake in the hole before you put the bolt in???



For the rocker bolt hole just put some ARP thread sealer or equivalent on the rocker bolt threads before threading them into the head.

Another thing you should pay attention to is the throat % after you've done your VJ.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 3rdCoastPowerSports
here is a pic of intake port with the bolt hump removed,,, i've decided to keep the ramp... i have seen some people make good flow numbers and lay down the power leaven some of the ramp in,,, so im going to leave it in this time



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Looks great man! I'd like to know your results with the ramp like that when you're done. Do you plan to flow test these?
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JS01



For the rocker bolt hole just put some ARP thread sealer or equivalent on the rocker bolt threads before threading them into the head.

Another thing you should pay attention to is the throat % after you've done your VJ.
Awesome diagram! Thank you very much JS01! I'm saving this. It'll help with future explanations. I wish I had come across that when i was trying to figure out what all that was.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JS01
Very important area you can pick up alot of CFM/HP here, you have to be careful on 241's though as they're very touchy on the short turn. Take out too much and they go turbulant in a hurry. I wouldn't mess with the short turn much unless you have flowbench access.

Also just as a general FYI most professional head porters use electric grinders.
I dont suppose there is any way you could give an example of how to work this area is there? You cant really take a picture of it... I dont know. Just fishing for some tips... or and idea of how it should be worked.

And thanks for the info on the most common tool used. I'm probably going to change my purchase dependent on that. And also the fact that thats what CHA sells for head porting and thats what their business is based on.
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