QuickSilver2002

A few simple questions:

1. Should you ever remove heads studs and clean the holes when you pull the heads. I found plenty of oil down in the hole around the top/large studs.

2. Are you suppose to put molly lube on the stud threads that go down into the block. If so, why? Would anti seize do the same thing? I know you need the moly lube for the top threads and bolts.

3. What type of sealer should I use on the rocker arm bolts? I'm still finding oil in my intake runners (even after completely removing PCV) and I have a feeling it is coming down through the rocker arm bolts that protrude into the intake runners.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

If you have studs instead of bolts you shouldn't be taking them out. That's the whole reason for having studs in the first place. The studs stay in and the heads come out instead after removing the nuts. I you had you heads ported and the bottom threads are exposed on the intake runner you should put some sealant on the rocker bolt threads. I got a little tube of Permatex Thread Sealant for $5. It's a tiny little tube of sealant, but you only need it on the intake rocker bolts because the exhaust bolt threads are NOT exposed during the porting process.

Shinobi'sZ

Sorry dude but I feel this part of your paragraph is not right at all. The only reason for having studs is clamping force not because you don't remove them. One more time....clamping force..studs hold better than bolts period....

I had to remove the studs to get my heads off because I did not want to pull the headers off with the Turbos on them...so I could only pull the headers out about 1/4" this means 10 out of the 15 studs (per side) had to be removed to get the heads off....one more time CLAMPING FORCE.

Removing the studs has added approximately 30 mins to the reinstall of my heads....vs. hours to remove and reintstall Turbos...it is a lot more work. So to say the only reason to have studs is so that you can leave them in....is just wrong.


Quick here is the link to my thread regarding Studs.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/147142-arp-stud-torque-procedure.html

QuickSilver2002

I know the general idea is to not have to remove them, but what if you have a head gasket problem and high pressure fluid makes its way near them.

I basically just got a little concerned when I saw liquid oozing out of the holes and I started thinking this could be a problem after the re-install. I think most of it is oil (not coolant), so I’m wondering if oil down in the holes is a problem.

I'll probably pull them and clean them just for my own sanity.

So back to the rocker arm bolts, I usually put lock tight on them. Is this considered a sealer? (Just trying to clarify terms).

Also, is motor oil good enough to put on the stud threads that go down in the hole?

Shinobi'sZ

Quick,
Go to the ARP website...tech tips does not recommend the use of motor oil even on the outside threads vs. moly lube. ARP calls for their thread sealer, loctite, or RTV for sealing the threads that go in the hole...go look you can see for yourself.

c5blkvette

As a Loctite Engineer I would recommend a medium to high strength threadlocking grade... medium if you ever want to remove them, high strength if you never want to remove (will require heat if you do)

Medium grades...242, 243
High strength ... 262, 271

These products have lubricants added to simulate the lubricity of "as recieved" oiled fasteners. This ensures that the correct torque/tension relationship is applied when following the manufacturers torque setting