Best cam for 2500 stall 3:23 dd
10-09-2011, 11:23 PM
#21
O lord, here we go... Thankfully Pred Z was in here to shed some light.
Just because he wants a smaller cam, doesn't mean it is a horrible setup. I promise I could take that small 212 cam and stomp a mud hole in 75% of mid size cam cars asses. It is all in the complete combo.
Are you aware that the first Fbody in the 10s had something in the 21X/ low 22X duration?
Do I think he needs a larger converter? Absolutely... Cam, not so much.
Sounds like he wants more of a DD... A 3200 would be nice and not hardly notice it. That would also allow something like a 224.
Thanks!
Go to youtube.com... Type in ls1 converter... Look at some of the videos... You can keep up with traffic pulling away from a red light with a 3600 converter and 323s at a mere 2000 RPMs or so, 2500 would have you pulling away from them, 3500 and they would have to be about WOT in most vehicles on the road.
At 35-45mph depending on the converter/tune the converter will lock. At that point the car acts EXACTLY like a stock converter, feel of the car and the MPG. MPG will only be effected around town, and with a 3200 it is only going to drop 2mpg or so. Performance increase will be great.
Wife won't hardly notice a quality 3200. I highly recommend PTC.
Don't go with a zo6, there are better choices in the same range.
You don't need a cam that large for 400Rwhp.
I have been 7.31@94.5 with a LOT left in the setup. With the same heads (hand ported 317 truck heads and 226 cam) this setup WILL run 6.XXs (tens for your 1/4 guys... At a 3400+# race weight and 2000+DA.
It is all in the setup.
Are you aware that the first Fbody in the 10s had something in the 21X/ low 22X duration?
Do I think he needs a larger converter? Absolutely... Cam, not so much.
Sounds like he wants more of a DD... A 3200 would be nice and not hardly notice it. That would also allow something like a 224.
Now not all people want a drag car or even a street strip. A 2800 stall can be sufficient for spirited street driving.
As for cam, I would say a TR 224/224 114LSA or a 224/230 114 LSA (along these lines).
If you go with a 228R (228/228 112LSA), then you'll need to step up to a 3200 or above stall. The Yank SS3600 mentioned above is a great street/strip converter for that range cam.
As for cam, I would say a TR 224/224 114LSA or a 224/230 114 LSA (along these lines).
If you go with a 228R (228/228 112LSA), then you'll need to step up to a 3200 or above stall. The Yank SS3600 mentioned above is a great street/strip converter for that range cam.
The problem i have with a stall is i dont want my car to become a weekend car,i sometimes drive this car long distances.I also have fuel ecomony in mind,and lastly i highly dought my wife would want to drive it reving to 3500,halfway to redline-thats just not going to happen.All im looking for is a good street set-up with more power,so everyone agrees a 224 is a good cam,what about a zo6 cam?i only want 400 or so rwhp
At 35-45mph depending on the converter/tune the converter will lock. At that point the car acts EXACTLY like a stock converter, feel of the car and the MPG. MPG will only be effected around town, and with a 3200 it is only going to drop 2mpg or so. Performance increase will be great.
Wife won't hardly notice a quality 3200. I highly recommend PTC.
Don't go with a zo6, there are better choices in the same range.
Like everybody else said, at least get a ss3200/tr224 or you'll wish you went bigger later, if I knew how drivable the ss3200 was when I ordered mine a few years ago I might have gone with a ss3600. If you want at least 400rwhp though you'll need something like a EPS 226/230 or bigger.
I have been 7.31@94.5 with a LOT left in the setup. With the same heads (hand ported 317 truck heads and 226 cam) this setup WILL run 6.XXs (tens for your 1/4 guys... At a 3400+# race weight and 2000+DA.
It is all in the setup.
10-10-2011, 11:30 PM
#22
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O lord, here we go... Thankfully Pred Z was in here to shed some light.
Just because he wants a smaller cam, doesn't mean it is a horrible setup. I promise I could take that small 212 cam and stomp a mud hole in 75% of mid size cam cars asses. It is all in the complete combo.
Are you aware that the first Fbody in the 10s had something in the 21X/ low 22X duration?
Do I think he needs a larger converter? Absolutely... Cam, not so much.
Sounds like he wants more of a DD... A 3200 would be nice and not hardly notice it. That would also allow something like a 224.
Thanks!
Go to youtube.com... Type in ls1 converter... Look at some of the videos... You can keep up with traffic pulling away from a red light with a 3600 converter and 323s at a mere 2000 RPMs or so, 2500 would have you pulling away from them, 3500 and they would have to be about WOT in most vehicles on the road.
At 35-45mph depending on the converter/tune the converter will lock. At that point the car acts EXACTLY like a stock converter, feel of the car and the MPG. MPG will only be effected around town, and with a 3200 it is only going to drop 2mpg or so. Performance increase will be great.
Wife won't hardly notice a quality 3200. I highly recommend PTC.
Don't go with a zo6, there are better choices in the same range.
You don't need a cam that large for 400Rwhp.
I have been 7.31@94.5 with a LOT left in the setup. With the same heads (hand ported 317 truck heads and 226 cam) this setup WILL run 6.XXs (tens for your 1/4 guys... At a 3400+# race weight and 2000+DA.
It is all in the setup.
Just because he wants a smaller cam, doesn't mean it is a horrible setup. I promise I could take that small 212 cam and stomp a mud hole in 75% of mid size cam cars asses. It is all in the complete combo.
Are you aware that the first Fbody in the 10s had something in the 21X/ low 22X duration?
Do I think he needs a larger converter? Absolutely... Cam, not so much.
Sounds like he wants more of a DD... A 3200 would be nice and not hardly notice it. That would also allow something like a 224.
Thanks!
Go to youtube.com... Type in ls1 converter... Look at some of the videos... You can keep up with traffic pulling away from a red light with a 3600 converter and 323s at a mere 2000 RPMs or so, 2500 would have you pulling away from them, 3500 and they would have to be about WOT in most vehicles on the road.
At 35-45mph depending on the converter/tune the converter will lock. At that point the car acts EXACTLY like a stock converter, feel of the car and the MPG. MPG will only be effected around town, and with a 3200 it is only going to drop 2mpg or so. Performance increase will be great.
Wife won't hardly notice a quality 3200. I highly recommend PTC.
Don't go with a zo6, there are better choices in the same range.
You don't need a cam that large for 400Rwhp.
I have been 7.31@94.5 with a LOT left in the setup. With the same heads (hand ported 317 truck heads and 226 cam) this setup WILL run 6.XXs (tens for your 1/4 guys... At a 3400+# race weight and 2000+DA.
It is all in the setup.
10-11-2011, 12:20 AM
#25
With the correct supporting mods, it could be a hell of a budget setup if thought out properly..
Those two things alone wouldnt make it a horrible combo.
You can have an awesome combo run 11.7@113.. You can have a horrible combo run 11.5@116. It all depends on the parts that are together.
A 212 cam car running 11.7 is nice, a trex cam car running 11.5, not so much.
It's in the details.
Those two things alone wouldnt make it a horrible combo.
You can have an awesome combo run 11.7@113.. You can have a horrible combo run 11.5@116. It all depends on the parts that are together.
A 212 cam car running 11.7 is nice, a trex cam car running 11.5, not so much.
It's in the details.
10-11-2011, 09:49 AM
#26
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so a 3200 stall and 224ish cam would be a good start to modding this?Would that stall be enough for a 228 cam?I plan on a ls6 intake but i do not want any bigger injectors,i have a 98 so there already a lil bigger than the others.I just dont want to make the car any less drivable than it already is,what would 1.85 rockers do on the 98 cam..?
10-11-2011, 01:40 PM
#27
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so a 3200 stall and 224ish cam would be a good start to modding this?Would that stall be enough for a 228 cam?I plan on a ls6 intake but i do not want any bigger injectors,i have a 98 so there already a lil bigger than the others.I just dont want to make the car any less drivable than it already is,what would 1.85 rockers do on the 98 cam..?
10-11-2011, 02:50 PM
#28
so a 3200 stall and 224ish cam would be a good start to modding this?Would that stall be enough for a 228 cam?I plan on a ls6 intake but i do not want any bigger injectors,i have a 98 so there already a lil bigger than the others.I just dont want to make the car any less drivable than it already is,what would 1.85 rockers do on the 98 cam..?
224 and a 3200 converter- more street friendly and can be a nice setup.
Or
228 and a 3600 converter- a very common DD setup that most people usually end up they wish they went bigger.
My opinion.. You have already moved up once on converter size.. You decided on the 224, then wanted to go with the 228.
It sounded like to me you would really enjoy the 228r with a 3600 converter. Throw some heads on later down the road, with good exhaust, and you should clear 400Rwhp.
10-12-2011, 10:17 PM
#29
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heres the thing,i dont drag the car really,im just wanting to enjoy more power out of it.So im thinking a 3000-3200 most likley and a 228 cam wouldnt fit the bill?I know the 224 would fit perfectly but has anyone done the 3200 and 228? vids?
10-13-2011, 10:21 AM
#31
Give us a call, we have some camshaft specials going on & can help you select a camshaft to meet your goals! 
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10-17-2011, 08:59 PM
#32
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As a new member here and new LS1 owner I read this thread with great interest as I basically want to do the same as 2manytoyz. The one thing I notice is the overwhelming recommendation and use of 3200+ rpm converters even with stock cams. I went that route with my LT1 car and was less than thrilled with the results.
After reading the comments here, it appears that I'm just going to forget changing the cam and concentrate on other mods as I don't want to go the high stall route again. I like the drive ability and fuel mileage I have now. You guys have saved me money and headaches already. Thanks.
After reading the comments here, it appears that I'm just going to forget changing the cam and concentrate on other mods as I don't want to go the high stall route again. I like the drive ability and fuel mileage I have now. You guys have saved me money and headaches already. Thanks.
10-17-2011, 09:18 PM
#33
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I can tell you with my stock cam and stock converter I was getting 16-17 city with a lead foot . After coverter stock gears and stock cam Im now getting 14-13 city. The stall and stock gears are working against each other. I can't wait till my 3.73's
10-17-2011, 09:24 PM
#34
Lt1s don't react quite the same as ls1s with converters.
That said, if you just flat out hated it.. I would steer clear.
I'm on my phone.. If I remember next time I'm on the comp ill explain why the more experience owners recommend a 3200+, actually 3600+ for most applications, so strongly.
That said, if you just flat out hated it.. I would steer clear.
I'm on my phone.. If I remember next time I'm on the comp ill explain why the more experience owners recommend a 3200+, actually 3600+ for most applications, so strongly.
10-17-2011, 09:35 PM
#35
As a new member here and new LS1 owner I read this thread with great interest as I basically want to do the same as 2manytoyz. The one thing I notice is the overwhelming recommendation and use of 3200+ rpm converters even with stock cams. I went that route with my LT1 car and was less than thrilled with the results.
After reading the comments here, it appears that I'm just going to forget changing the cam and concentrate on other mods as I don't want to go the high stall route again. I like the drive ability and fuel mileage I have now. You guys have saved me money and headaches already. Thanks.
After reading the comments here, it appears that I'm just going to forget changing the cam and concentrate on other mods as I don't want to go the high stall route again. I like the drive ability and fuel mileage I have now. You guys have saved me money and headaches already. Thanks.
10-18-2011, 04:52 AM
#36
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The stall speed id not the only indicator of how it will behave. Not all stalls are created equal and one with a tight STR will react less loose and be more efficient.
10-18-2011, 06:45 PM
#37
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The converter I have in the LT1 is a Precision Vigilante. I tried a 3400 stall and it kept doing the bang shift deal and going into limp home mode. I understand that is an issue with OBD1 cars. Then after talking to Precision, I tried a 2800 stall speed. It still was too loose in around town driving. My mileage went from about 16 in town down to 10-11. As for the rest of the combo, it has a Comp XFI 466 cam with 1.6 Comp rockers, BBK headers and off-road Y pipe with a MagnaFlow cat back and a mail order tune by PCMforless.
Here's a little background about me. I've been building and driving old school street rods, muscle cars for over 30 years. I ran an automotive machine shop for almost 12 years and owned a classic car restoration shop for 9 years.
Give me an engine with a carb on top, and I'm good to go. I have been in a steep learning curve lately with the Outlaw 8.5 car since it has a turbo and fuel injection.
I'm here to learn and I listen to all opinions, observe the results from testing and make an educated decision.
Here's a little background about me. I've been building and driving old school street rods, muscle cars for over 30 years. I ran an automotive machine shop for almost 12 years and owned a classic car restoration shop for 9 years.
Give me an engine with a carb on top, and I'm good to go. I have been in a steep learning curve lately with the Outlaw 8.5 car since it has a turbo and fuel injection.
I'm here to learn and I listen to all opinions, observe the results from testing and make an educated decision.
Last edited by outlaw8.5; 10-18-2011 at 07:19 PM.
10-18-2011, 07:39 PM
#38
My old setup
98 trans am
VIG 4400 converter
410s
ms4 cam (HUGE)
PRC stg 1 heads
pacesetters x pipe 1 chambers before axle
lid
tune
etc
With all of that, I still got around 12mpg in the city, 16 or so on the highway.
There was something up with that setup it seems.
98 trans am
VIG 4400 converter
410s
ms4 cam (HUGE)
PRC stg 1 heads
pacesetters x pipe 1 chambers before axle
lid
tune
etc
With all of that, I still got around 12mpg in the city, 16 or so on the highway.
There was something up with that setup it seems.
10-18-2011, 11:31 PM
#39
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I forgot to add, the rear has the stock 3.23 gears. That is probably one of the reasons the converter is so loose. Since a converter reacts to torque input as well as the amount of torque required to move a vehicle, the gear ratio could be the reason and the answer.
I do like the 22 mpg I'm currently getting, but I would like to have more mid range torque in the 2-4000 rpm range. I don't want a drag car. I want an economical cruiser that has a nice fat torque mid range torque curve.
I do like the 22 mpg I'm currently getting, but I would like to have more mid range torque in the 2-4000 rpm range. I don't want a drag car. I want an economical cruiser that has a nice fat torque mid range torque curve.
