Cam install problem: Crank pulley removal - M6x120mm bolts don't exist!
03-10-2004, 10:10 AM
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Cam install problem: Crank pulley removal - M6x120mm bolts don't exist! Yeah, so I'm at the point of pulling the crank pulley - is it possible w/ the stock crank bolt? I don't know why I'm having so much difficulty - I'm worried that the thing is stuck on there or something.
On to the next problem - NO ONE anywhere in the genereal Albany, NY area has/makes/knows of a M6x2.0x120mm bolt. NAPA is out completely - they don't even have any in their warehouse. I'm going nuts - I don't know what to do now. Can anyone think of anywhere I can get this bolt?
If that can't be done - is there any possible way to seat the crank pulley (once it's off) with the stock-length bolt? How do the dealerships do it?
URGH!
Thanks in advance!
On to the next problem - NO ONE anywhere in the genereal Albany, NY area has/makes/knows of a M6x2.0x120mm bolt. NAPA is out completely - they don't even have any in their warehouse. I'm going nuts - I don't know what to do now. Can anyone think of anywhere I can get this bolt?
If that can't be done - is there any possible way to seat the crank pulley (once it's off) with the stock-length bolt? How do the dealerships do it?
URGH!
Thanks in advance!
03-10-2004, 10:42 AM
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Well - I talked to a "corvette guy" at a chevy dealership around here and he suggested that I try heating up the pulley... so I'm gonna go have fun w/ my heat gun for a while. Wish me luck. 
03-10-2004, 11:07 AM
#6
I found a longer bolt from a supply store in my area. The bolt is about 7 or 8 inches long and is threaded for the first few inches only.
Keep looking, you'll find one. I tried to find threaded rod with no luck...but the bolt cost $10 and it was a lifesaver.
Are you sure the bolt is M6x2.0? I believe it is M20, big. Maybe I'm wrong....??
Keep looking, you'll find one. I tried to find threaded rod with no luck...but the bolt cost $10 and it was a lifesaver.
Are you sure the bolt is M6x2.0? I believe it is M20, big. Maybe I'm wrong....??
03-10-2004, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jmX
Its an M16 bolt, not M6, and you can get one from any bolt shop or mcmaster.com. You can also find some M16 allthread and cut to length if needed.
I think the part number is 95430A478 (partially threaded) from mcmaster.com cost $2.71
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03-10-2004, 11:28 AM
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BLKWS6 on here found 3 ft of the correct pitch threaded rod at ACE hardware that we used when his crank threads stripped. If you cant find anything and will pay shiping I will send a section out to you.
03-10-2004, 12:49 PM
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I ordered mine from mcmaster in NJ i believe. M16 X 2.0 pitch X 120mm long-from jmx's www.ls1howto.com I definitely would hate to chance the install without it as i've seen numerous posts about stripped crank threads etc.
03-10-2004, 01:59 PM
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Well guys, I finally got the crank pulley off and the cam out 
and had a beer.
I just ordered the bolt from Mcmaster and over-nighted it... guaranteed to get here by 10:30 tomorrow morning and cost about $12.00
Thanks for the tips everyone - lets hope the rest of the install goes well
and the cam out and had a beer. I just ordered the bolt from Mcmaster and over-nighted it... guaranteed to get here by 10:30 tomorrow morning and cost about $12.00
Thanks for the tips everyone - lets hope the rest of the install goes well
03-10-2004, 02:03 PM
#11
There has to be an industrial supply company that carries those bolts. I got mine at Brafasco which is in Canada. Doesn't do you much good but there has to be someplace. Phone a local rental company they could probably give you a line on someplace to look
03-10-2004, 02:37 PM
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Sheesh.. this brings back bad memories. I remember the same dilemma. I was doing a "quick and easy" pulley swap in my garage, never even considering the possibility of a hiccup. Removed the pulley, no problem. Put new pulley in place, thread bolt in.. thread bolt in... ummm, thread bolt in? Yea, by that time it was after 6:00pm and no bolt store in town was open. I ended up taking 2 of the spare crank bolts I had, cutting one in half, and welding it back together to make a puller. It was madness, but I needed the car in the morning, and sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do. lol
Good luck man.. JMX's suggestion for the "all thread" or threaded rod is a good one.
Good luck man.. JMX's suggestion for the "all thread" or threaded rod is a good one.
03-10-2004, 03:43 PM
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Yeah, I was looking for a longer bolt when I went to reinstall my stock pulley. It was halarious!
I was covered in dirt and grease going from store to store trying to find the proper bolt. No one had it, but one guy mentioned going to a company a few miles away that specialized in Metric nuts and bolts.
To make a long story short, I had a meeting with 3 guys in business suits discussing the bolt I needed (all the while dressed like white trash, stinking of oil and grease!!!!) I was wondering what I got myself into!
Well, I got the bolt I needed on the spot for under $10.
Tommy
I was covered in dirt and grease going from store to store trying to find the proper bolt. No one had it, but one guy mentioned going to a company a few miles away that specialized in Metric nuts and bolts.
To make a long story short, I had a meeting with 3 guys in business suits discussing the bolt I needed (all the while dressed like white trash, stinking of oil and grease!!!!) I was wondering what I got myself into!
Well, I got the bolt I needed on the spot for under $10.
Tommy
03-10-2004, 04:13 PM
#16
Just an idea tell if its a good one or not.
With my s/c set up I take the crank bolt out pretty often if I am messing with the cog set up or stuff like that. Thing is the bolt I have sometimes goes in good, sometimes it doesn't
I have bought a tap and die for both the crank threads and the crank bolt to clean them up when the bolt doesn't go in right. I also have a 2 foot long piece of threaded rod for crank pulley installs.
Heres the question
Can't I just cut the threaded rod to stick out from the crankshaft and past the crank pulley and use a washer and lock washer plus locktite and a nut to hold it on? This would save the threads of the crankshaft from getting F#cked up all the time having only to take a nut off instead of a bolt out. Right? or NO?
Thanks,
Jeremy
With my s/c set up I take the crank bolt out pretty often if I am messing with the cog set up or stuff like that. Thing is the bolt I have sometimes goes in good, sometimes it doesn't
I have bought a tap and die for both the crank threads and the crank bolt to clean them up when the bolt doesn't go in right. I also have a 2 foot long piece of threaded rod for crank pulley installs. Heres the question
Can't I just cut the threaded rod to stick out from the crankshaft and past the crank pulley and use a washer and lock washer plus locktite and a nut to hold it on? This would save the threads of the crankshaft from getting F#cked up all the time having only to take a nut off instead of a bolt out. Right? or NO?
Thanks,
Jeremy
03-10-2004, 04:49 PM
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sounds like your basically trying to go from a crank pulley bolt, to a crank pulley stud. No clue if it would work, but it sounds like a good idea to me... but I'm not the person to ask.
03-10-2004, 06:26 PM
#18
Originally Posted by angst911
sounds like your basically trying to go from a crank pulley bolt, to a crank pulley stud. No clue if it would work, but it sounds like a good idea to me... but I'm not the person to ask.
Sounds like a great idea I would be interested also in that I have ordered an ajustable timeing set and could be spending some time tuning the cam.
03-10-2004, 06:43 PM
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GM dealership has bolt about 4-6.00
go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
>>>>>>when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<
hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again
may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
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go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
>>>>>>when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<
hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again
may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
/\/\/\/\
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|...... |
|..... <<
| ......|
|...... |
|...... |
03-10-2004, 09:51 PM
#20
I got mine at the local auto supply, but I only used it to put the pullet back in. Just get a piece of metal rod that will fit inside the crank hole, NOT thread in, but small enough to touch the back of the crank w/o hitting the tread. If I remember correctly, I used a piece of 1/2" steel that I cut to size and just put in the crank. Easy as pie.