00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

If it only took a 3rd of a jug to fill it it should be okay. There was still enough coolant in the system to submerge the sensor and it read correctly so the temp should have been accurate. Now the lopey idle could be many things and could even be a weak cylinder due to a head gasket issue from overheating. But that is assuming you actually did damage and I highly doubt you did. Again kill each cylinder one by one and make sure they all have the same amount of miss when you kill them if one only causes a weak reaction in relation to the others investigate that cylinder.

The steam... well it's hard to say without seeing it.

Well if you really are thinking that is an issue then it's worth pulling the transmission. If it doesn't come off it will at least destroy the bolt holes in the flywheel and there is a good chance it will damage the crank too. I always put loctite on flywheel bolts and give them a little extra tq. In a lot of cases after I tq them down I give them a light pop with an impact just for good measure. I always worry about them backing out so I double check my double checks when it comes to flywheel, clutch, flexplate bolts.

Buddy of mine had his clutch pressure plate bolts back out and it didn't make noise but it vibrated the car bad if you revved the engine in nuetral. The bolts wore the holes oblong so the clutch plate was no longer centered and all that weight being off center causes a bad vibration.

Use loctite on the clutch plate bolts and flywheel bolts. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to use ARP hardware, not necessary if you don't have time or $ to get the ARP stuff though, just extra peace of mind.

HVYMTL

Thanks again. BTW your avatar rules. haha

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

No problem.

Funny story about the avatar, ex gf of mine (built just like that, skinny with big fake *****) saw that picture in my picture album and got all jealous and mad and said "why don't you take a picture of me like that instead of looking at some other girl!!!??" I laughed and said "because I only have one gun" lmao she was not happy with that response.

HVYMTL

Haha! Anyways after going through some other old 'symptoms' threads... I may try a new PCV valve just to see if that does anything. Looks like symptoms of bad valve could include hesitation, drop in MPG, oil consumption? If I'm cruising around 1500 rpm it will occasionally buck a little bit then smooth out. It's really weird and kinda scary at first. Idk, my car has done so much weird crap this week and it's hard to diag any of it because I know the diff is about to go, then I had the coolant issue--found the water pump to be the culprit, and then the PCV hose and idle issues... AGH!

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

Maybe it's just me....but if I were even remotely concerned about the possibility of flywheel bolts not being properly torqued, I'd pull the trans. I know it's not the answer that you're looking for...but as cheezy as it might sound to some..."safety first" should be the rule. As has been previously stated, you're life could very well be on the line. Since you work for a dealership, check with the boss and see if s/he will let you use a hoist to do the job in your off time. Couldn't hurt to ask.

Good luck to ya, and I hope ya get it figured out soon......sucks to be confined to an Altima

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

i had the problem of the PCV hose having a hole in it and my car did the same thing. once i replaced the hose it ran soo much better

HVYMTL

I do work at a dealership... but as the Parts Manager, so not enough down time to spend under my car on a lift. I can always use equipment and lifts on saturdays though. I'm about to pull it inside and hook it up to our scanner though and do a little data logging to check my fuel/misfire histories. I'll post up my results... Thanks guys for the input and keep it coming!

HVYMTL

Ok, started trying to find dead cylinders... which the PCV issue fixed the low rough idle. BUT I can pull the number one wire off the plug and the idle doesn't change. I'm getting plenty of fire through the coil because it arcs to the valve cover. Pulled the plugs out of bank 1 and they all look great. So confused...

HVYMTL

UPDATE* Complete noob tard moment... swapped the plugs and wires from the first two cylinders on B1... well when I took the second one out I had to break it loose like normal... number 1 not so much so I torqued em all in really good, clicked on the wires... yeah number one plug was a little loose. UGH

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Stuff like that is how we learn sometimes, glad you got it running better.

cody161

iTrader: (18)

I haven't seen what happens when a flywheel bolt is loose but I have seen what happens when one gets sheared off and goes through a fuel line. Booom, car goes up in flames until it runs out of fuel or gets put out with a fire extinguisher or some other means.

HVYMTL

Still was having issues, NOT the flywheel thank goodness. That was just the culmination of paranoia with all of the issues I had and noises/vibrations that were due to other things found out today... checked all 8 plugs and all 4 in bank 2 were completely caked with black soot. BINGO had a dead o2 sensor. The codes were actually telling me something instead of the usual LT header codes thrown for no (important) reason, imagine that. ha oh and also beware of buying "denso" sensors for under 50 dollars online unless it's a trusted source because I was ripped! Had to order a brand new sensor from napa at work, same part number I was under the impression I had and they were in fact different. The new one was actually engraved with the Denso name... online purchased sensor only says 'made in indonesia' with a 5 digit number. GO FIGURE. But car's running great with new plugs also. Datalog readouts looked good also, actually going to closed loop for the first time in I don't know how long... OK end of rant but I'm so relieved even thought I'm out another 70ish bucks