HVYMTL

This week has been a major headache, aside from the fact that my rear is shot and I've been babying it waiting for Saturday to come around for a rebuild... Today after much search button usage and reading, found my water pump to be dying. No biggie, got a pump, doing that Saturday as well... OK now the problems keep coming:

-My idle is around 600ish, little lower than usual. With the motor warm I went to smell the exhaust to make sure I didnt smell coolant, and my car is f'n loping like it had a mild cam?!? I'm so worried about the possibilities. I scanned for DTCs earlier and the only ones that are unusual (because of mods) are bank 1 sensor 1 insufficient switching and b2s1 low voltage. I'm at a loss and don't know where to start.

Also worried that my flywheel bolts have loosened... if so can anyone tell me what driving with an improperly torqued flywheel would be like??

Thanks in advance guys!!

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

As you've stated the water pump is shot, is the engine running hot?

Sorry, can't help with the flywheel bolts but it doesn't sound like a good idea to use the car if they're loose. What makes you think you have loose bolts?

I'd park the car until you've fixed the rear and WP and inspected the flywheel bolts.

HVYMTL

The WP works, its just leaking out of the weep hole after the car cools down. The guage isn't going past 200, and I just top it off and I'm only driving a few miles to work and back until Saturday when I have the time/place/means to tear it apart. As far as the FW bolts go, I replaced my own clutch about 2 or 3k miles ago and I'm fairly certain they didn't get torqued tight enough (had trouble keeping it still while I was tightening the bolts and was afraid to use an impact on them) and I'm getting a vibration and noise near the bellhousing that's getting worse :sad:

HVYMTL

I'll also add that the pcv hose that comes off the intake (behind throttle body on passenger's side) and goes onto the valve was pinched shut with the suction (rubber worn out and very soft). Pulled that off and replaced it with an equal sized piece of thick hose... would that cause any issues?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

How is the car running? I wouldn't be too worried about a little roughness in the idle as you listened closely to the exhaust.

Meanwhile, see if you can find this tool:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=103

HVYMTL

Yeah I've seen those in tool catalogs (I work in a dealership)... what sucks is I found a thread later on about how you can put a screwdriver or punch or something similar through one of those holes and into the block to keep it from turning... Pulling the trans by myself is one of those jobs I don't exactly look forward too especially since it was out twice in the matter of a few months (other clutch issues, now fixed). But I'm thinking this saturday while we are rebuilding my rear end and replacing the water pump it may have to happen.

HVYMTL

It doesn't feel down on power really, but the lower idle and the almost lopey sound coming through the tail pipes is not the usual behavior, ha. I need to try to check my fuel trims tomorrow while the car is running. Would dumping extra fuel cause it to sound cammed like that at all?

mpatton

Check plugs, wires, etc. Doesn't throw a code for a misfire? Id definatley would re torque the flywheel bolts.

mpatton

Also maybe bad o2.

HVYMTL

My o2's are brand new densos that I put in a month or 2 ago, no issues till yesterday

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Are your o2 sensor wires laying on the exhaust by chance?. Also, if your even the slightest bit un sure of the flywheel torque, definitely quit driving it. Or You could end up in a wheel chair.

HVYMTL

o2 wires: They couldn't be resting on the exhaust, I followed the write up by the book and repinned the ecm so I used the rear connectors and they're zip tied away from any hot exhaust parts...

flywheel issue: not sure if that's what's going on but I'm paranoid now so yes the car is sitting until Saturday. has anyone ever experienced flywheel bolts backing out before?? Symptoms?

I know this has kind of wandered outside "internal engine" territory, sorry mods. If the thread gets moved I understand. I thought at first it might be internal related. Still haven't figured out why I'm getting the sounds out of my exhaust that I am... puzzled. Checked driver's side valve train and nothing was loose or broken (the side that the moist noise is heard on) I'll try to maybe get a video tonight but it's dark when I get home from work.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

My friend Zach with the black trans am has similar issues and has for a long time.

It sounds like it has a huge cam in it but it doesn't. Also sometimes maxes the fuel trims, but otherwise runs great. We thought it would be a vacuum leak but he put new intake gaskets on and replaced or checked every rubber hose on the thing.

His "lope" sound seems to be from random misfires on all cylinders which does still hint at lean condition but we can't find why.

I have EFI live and a Snap On MT2500 scan tool. If anyone comes up with some good ideas what to look for and you need to use either of them just let me know. If we fix yours maybe we can fix his too.

HVYMTL

Thanks man, we got this cool new scanner here at work too, Matco Taskmaster... it will do almost everything short of tuning. I can do live data feeds and fuel trims, etc. I'm gonna try that next week once it's at least driveable again.

His TA isn't the one with 'willkillya' on the back panel is it? I keep seeing him around every now and then and have been wondering if that car is one here somewhere, haha

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Nope, if I remember correctly that guy's name is Hoff and it's supposed to be NASTY.

This one is black with black ttm wheels (used to have polished lips but now they are plastidipped), aftermarket ws6 type hood that is slightly larger, longtubes and LM1 exhaust, and the rear panel in blacked out.

His screen name is Hashish here.

HVYMTL

Ha no I'm friends with Hof, his cars down for te winter. The one I'm talkin about is black and has red grills in the ram air ports and some other red accents

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Don't know that one. We mostly are down in Fville though.

Sometimes we cruise up that way but rarely see anyone out.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Insufficient switching is usually from a bad sensor or when the fuel trims are maxed due to overly rich or lean condition. Your STFT's should be between -3 and +3 preferably with the engine at hot idle. -5 to +5 is more average. Outside of that generally indicates a problem. B2S1 sounds like has an issue with the sensor, voltage supply, or signal. Recheck all your pinning that you did, ohm your connections.

If the flywheel is coming loose it can rattle and or vibrate. If you think it's loose pull the starter out and try to move it back and forth in roughly 4-5 positions, turn it several times and pull and push or pry on it to see if it moves a little.

If it hasn't gone over 200 and it hasn't gotten really low on coolant it's very unlikely you did engine damage.

This could have caused a lean issue (when those hoses do that they usually leak also) which could have caused the lack of switching code. It could also cause a rough idle. The 02 sensors not working properly could contribute to a rough idle. Go to the coils or injectors one by one and unplug them and see if every cylinder is firing. If you have a dead cylinder then do your compression testing, plug and wire testing, injector testing.

If it is dumping a lot of fuel from one injector it will make that cylinder misfire and make that sound yes. Prime the fuel system with a pressure gauge attached and pinch off your fuel supply line. You shouldn't see any fuel pressure drop, if you do an injector is stuck open or leaking.

Good point, if that flywheel comes apart or off it WILL cause very serious carnage and possibly cost you life or limbs..

HVYMTL

Thanks pooter, that was helpful info. Might try the starter trick tonight to see if I really do need to pull my tranny again. As far as the water pump problem goes... my guage never went up but I pulled over as soon as I felt the rough idle and checked the usual 'vital signs'... felt the coolant cap and it wasn't warm so I got worried and cracked it open and it didn't let off pressure like usual. So I took the cap off and couldn't see coolant, ran into the gas station and bought the only coolant they had and it took about a third of the jug to top it off. Your thoughts? Also after I shut the motor off, a few seconds went by and the radiator started steaming?? It didn't do that very long and my motor didn't smell like it was extremely hot or anything, I could still put my hands on the intake and a few other places without it smoldering, lol.

HVYMTL

And this is what has me paranoid, and I'm rockin a 2000 Altima for a couple days... haha