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Old 11-11-2011, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by senicalj4579
I dont understand why you need rod bolts. From the book I read the stock ones are good for 450 no?
Power doesn't have anything to do with it, it's RPM, high RPM throws the piston out faster which increases the pull on the rod when the piston reaches the end of the stroke, that pulls on the rod and the weak point is the bolts, they stretch, allow a little clearance, then the bearing spins and it's game over. Power pushes down on the rod, the rod takes all that force straight to the crank, therefore the bolts are not affected.

Originally Posted by s346k
i've seen you say this many times. referring to the increased clamping load. the only way you'd distort anything is by overtorquing the bolts themselves. the fact they are stronger and do not stretch/break does not, by default, make them clamp the rod/rod cap harder at the same torque spec as a stock bolt.

that's like comparing a grade 8 bolt and grade 5 bolt. stating that simply because the grade 8 bolt is stronger, it will distort your connection. how is that so? clamp load capability has nothing to do with how hard they are torqued. the capability is tested when the parts are moving at high rpm, not sitting on the stand upside down right after you install them.

also, this is true of rpm killing the bottom end. i have seen a few motors that come apart from high rpm. if the bearing doesn't spin from lack of oil, the rod will stretch. i've personally seen 2 of these instances. one 99 motor, one 01 motor.
I've killed several motors myself from RPM's. But never from power.

And what you said in the first sentance is why I wonder if Katech uses a lower tq value. It would seem if the tq stays the same, the clamp would stay the same, and there wouldn't be distortion.


Originally Posted by 2fresh
so what is high rpm?
the 98 motors are supposed to have the worst rod bolts and most likely to break I wouldn't want to go above the stock rev limiter. From what I understand people get in trouble right around the 7000 RPM mark. I had my rev limiter set at 6800 up until 176k miles. Then I turned it down to 6700. I would stay in that range on 99 and up.

Originally Posted by bww3588
So explain to me why re sizing a rod is required after changing rod bolts? Is that something machinest and bolt manufacturers dreamed up to add extra work to the process?. By the time you torque down a stronger bolt enough to be effective, you will distort the rod bore.

Ever wonder why arp bolts use more torque than stock? You have to streach a bolt to make it effective, and you have to put more torque on a stronger bolt to make it streach.
Do you know if Katech uses a lower tq? I have always wondered why they don't require re-tq but ARP does. Only thing I can think is that ARP must use higher tq. I know this is less likely to affect cracked rods but regardless things can move so I myself am uncomfortable with just slapping in rod bolts. That's why my opinion is to leave them alone or pull it apart and do it right.

Originally Posted by Austinma62
At what rpm is considered to be high and in need of replacing the rod bolts?
Read what I quoted above about that.

Originally Posted by lifeisgood
I knew that 99 had issues with the oil pumps not being up to par. Thats something I was going to address during the swap, along with a timing chain. So katech rod bolts are stronger and have the same torque spec as factory? Those should be the best bet. But if I don't have to replace them, given I buy a cam that stays in the factory powerband, no need for them right?
Good idea's. Do a pump and chain, cam retainer would be a good idea too. And yes if you choose the right cam you won't need to rev it high and the rod bolts will be a non issue. You can raise your rev limiter a little but a lot of people take it way too far and there is no need for it whatsoever. Those are usually the people that do way too big of a cam for their setup, rev it to the moon, then wonder why the little cam car whooped their ***. I've killed many a cam car, even 6spd's with a cam with my stock internal full weight car. I'm all boltons.


Originally Posted by BOBS99SS
listen your post of not wanting to spin it to the moon tells me you do not want a ms4, get a pat g spec cam, he can get you everything your looking for in a cam,i have a ms4 and i always tell everyone to stay away from that cam for a few reasons, its not something that can be made fast on a budget, and you will have alot faster car going with something smaller, i hope you know you can get a big bad *** cam sound on a much smaller profile, also not saying your exhaust set up is bad for a ms4 but duals would help a ton with a ms4, pat g custom grind , you can stay away from doing rod bolts ,make tons of street usable power etc. if you had a 98 i would say rod bolts all the way , the rod bolts in a 98 are garbage,
Exactly
Old 11-11-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by lifeisgood
I'd like not to rev to the moon. Lol this car is not an all out track car, it will see its fair share. I bought the car with 81k miles on it and I'm retiring it from dding with 102k. It's in good shape. It's will be just a weekend car. I'm looking for 400 whp. Car is an auto. I have Texas speed 1 7/8 headers and a Borla catback. So the exhaust is decent. I was looking into a 3500 stall. Any one have a good recommendation for what I want?
And the 400 whp is not set in stone. I'd just like to be close. Most people do not have the understanding of what type of power that is on the street. Having owned a turbo 4th gen making 550, I do. And I've driven some very fast cars. I do not plan on taking the car much further than just camming, I have two other camaros to mess with.
Thanks for the help so far guys
If you want 400 you already have great headers, you may add a cutout to get the most flow out of your single 3". I have a Yank SS3800 stall and love it, get a GOOD stall or you will not make use of the power because the stall will not be efficient in higher RPM's. I have pulled other auto cars with same stall speed and a cam, with my no cam car because my stall was better. So get a 228ish-232ish duration cam, an LS6 intake, port the TB and you will be at 400RWHP (it may read less because of the stall but it will be there)
Old 11-13-2011, 04:32 PM
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For give me on this. But the g spec cam I've never heard of.......any thoughts on it? Results?
Old 11-14-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by lifeisgood
For give me on this. But the g spec cam I've never heard of.......any thoughts on it? Results?
What he meant was, contact Patrick G, he is a member here and he designs custom cam spec's for you for $25. You can do that or call Thunder Racing, Texas Speed, EPS etc... There are many site sponsors that could help advise you with a cam or create custom specs for you to help you achieve your goal.
Old 11-14-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lifeisgood
I'd like not to rev to the moon. Lol this car is not an all out track car, it will see its fair share. I bought the car with 81k miles on it and I'm retiring it from dding with 102k. It's in good shape. It's will be just a weekend car. I'm looking for 400 whp. Car is an auto. I have Texas speed 1 7/8 headers and a Borla catback. So the exhaust is decent. I was looking into a 3500 stall. Any one have a good recommendation for what I want?
And the 400 whp is not set in stone. I'd just like to be close. Most people do not have the understanding of what type of power that is on the street. Having owned a turbo 4th gen making 550, I do. And I've driven some very fast cars. I do not plan on taking the car much further than just camming, I have two other camaros to mess with.
Thanks for the help so far guys
228r....bar none. 113 lsa. or 115 if you plan on turbo or FI in general later on.




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