Notices
Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal

 
Old 11-10-2011, 12:59 AM
  #1  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal

It is way late. I shouldn't have been working on the car. I was removing the crank pulley. I removed the crank bolt and never put it back in. I used a 1/2 inch extension and pulley puller to remove my crank pulley. Ended up eating 2 or 3 threads and now the crank bolt threads will not start. If I could just start the bolt I'd be happy. Any suggestions or am I fucked and have to replace the crank??? Please help. All my car buddies have gfs now :/
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:52 AM
  #2  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
 
82cetuner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denham Springs, LA
Posts: 1,366
Default

just re thread it with a tap and die
82cetuner is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:31 AM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
 
farmington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Metro Detroit area
Posts: 1,761
Default

technically you need to run a tap into the hole. make sure you have the correct diameter AND pitch.
farmington is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:42 AM
  #4  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
 
82cetuner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denham Springs, LA
Posts: 1,366
Default

yeah i know you use the tap but you usually have to buy the tap and die in a set, and yes make sure you got the right diamiater and pitch for sure.
82cetuner is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:56 AM
  #5  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

What about using a helicoil?

Thank you for all the replies. You can kind of see the rusty pic is a stock crank and the god awful crank threads in the other.
Attached Thumbnails Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal-imag1107.jpg   Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal-imag1095-1-.jpg  
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 12:57 PM
  #6  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,081
Default

The threads on the crank are quiet long, I would try to save what you have before resorting to drilling and tapping. More risk there.
vettenuts is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:24 PM
  #7  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rosedale, Indiana
Posts: 293
Default

If only the first 2-3 threads are gone just run a tap to chase the threads and get your starter thread created on the 3rd to 4th thread down. Like the others said the crank bolt is long and the threads go into the crank deep.

Would not mess with a heli coil on a crank at all!

You can buy a tap without buying the matching die.
remauto1187 is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:24 PM
  #8  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

You are right. Only about an inch of thread. About 11-13 threads by looking at the bolt. I've completely lost 2.5 threads already. My hope is to tap only about 3 threads in. Obviously it won't like up right unless I get super lucky.

During my lunch I laid the bolt back in (not threaded of course), started the jaw puller. Since the balancer bolt will not thread, it just starts to chew more threads. I stopped instantly as not to do more damage. Looks like I will need a REALLY ******* deep tap and die.
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:49 PM
  #9  
11 Second Club
 
Bluestreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 300
Default

Call a professional machine shop and explain the situation. Rather than try anything else, running a tap, or otherwise risking more damage, get an expert diagnosis and see what can be done to repair the situation now.
Bluestreak is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 01:57 PM
  #10  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

Yeah I've called one machine shop and they won't touch it unless the engine is out of the car.
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 03:24 PM
  #11  
11 Second Club
 
Bluestreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 300
Default

Originally Posted by deejaydaze View Post
Yeah I've called one machine shop and they won't touch it unless the engine is out of the car.
Then you have your answer. If they're willing, that means it can be repaired. Not the answer I know you wanted, but... to quote a friend, "do it right, or do it twice."
Bluestreak is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 03:35 PM
  #12  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

Meaning they are a machine shop not a repair shop. I know the guy personally and he told me to go ahead and tap it. I know there are morons out there that think they can do their own work and can't. I'm decent with tools and not the guy that does things twice lol. I need to find the right size **** now.

This thread shows the bolt is m16x2x103mm
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 04:00 PM
  #13  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rosedale, Indiana
Posts: 293
Default

Originally Posted by deejaydaze View Post
You are right. Only about an inch of thread. About 11-13 threads by looking at the bolt. I've completely lost 2.5 threads already. My hope is to tap only about 3 threads in. Obviously it won't like up right unless I get super lucky.

During my lunch I laid the bolt back in (not threaded of course), started the jaw puller. Since the balancer bolt will not thread, it just starts to chew more threads. I stopped instantly as not to do more damage. Looks like I will need a REALLY ******* deep tap and die.
You don't need a die, only the tap. A die is used to create or repair external threads. IE: a bolt. A die is used for cutting or chasing internal threads. Just buy the tap. Take your bolt with you to match up to make sure you get the right size.
You can do all this yourself. You fkd it up...now fix it! You can do it! Just keep that tap square with the hole in the crank and it will guide itself. You are only chewing through 1 boogered up lead thread. After that, the rest of the threads will guide the tap for the chase. Go slow and it would help to use some cutting oil, wd40, lps or whatever.
remauto1187 is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 04:04 PM
  #14  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

LOL remauto. Yup I know I only need a tap. I need a long *** one because the pulley is still on! Def major waterdevelopment40!!
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 06:50 PM
  #15  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

Well. I'm looking for a long enough tap now. Seems hard to find M16 x 2 that is long enough to reach since the crank is still on. Fml
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:30 PM
  #16  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
 
S10xGN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Port Neches, TX
Posts: 3,786
Default

Originally Posted by deejaydaze View Post
Well. I'm looking for a long enough tap now. Seems hard to find M16 x 2 that is long enough to reach since the crank is still on. Fml
I'm not seeing your problem, tap "length" has nothing to do with it. If you're worried about turning the tap, use an appropriate 8 or 12 pt socket on a ratchet.
S10xGN is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:48 PM
  #17  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

Well, the crank pulley is still on. The bolt length is 102mm with just the last inch grabbing threads plus the distance from bolt head to front of the pulley. Most 14mm x 2 taps I see don't look long enough. I just have a lot of anxiety right now that's all.
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 09:58 PM
  #18  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
AAIIIC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
Posts: 2,053
Default

You actually don't want a tap, you want a thread chaser. Taps cut new threads, chasers clean/repair existing damaged threads.
AAIIIC is offline  
Old 11-10-2011, 11:48 PM
  #19  
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
 
deejaydaze's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 491
Default

I was also thinking that as well. Now if there are no threads in the beginning to start (first few threads) how will a chaser work??
deejaydaze is offline  
Old 11-11-2011, 01:43 AM
  #20  
Launching!
 
mightybird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: fortwayne indiana
Posts: 295
Default

Originally Posted by deejaydaze View Post
It is way late. I shouldn't have been working on the car. I was removing the crank pulley. I removed the crank bolt and never put it back in. I used a 1/2 inch extension and pulley puller to remove my crank pulley. Ended up eating 2 or 3 threads and now the crank bolt threads will not start. If I could just start the bolt I'd be happy. Any suggestions or am I fucked and have to replace the crank??? Please help. All my car buddies have gfs now :/
get a stock crank bolt and take a die grinder and cut some slits in it its worked for me and try that its worked for me in the past.
mightybird is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Tap and die crankshaft threads? Rookie mistake w/ crank pulley removal


About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: