trey1010

iTrader: (3)

I just tightened it as much as i could. It is still just as tight when i check it periodically as it was 10k miles ago. It is really not that hard at all, much much easier and cheaper than a new crank! lol

oxblood!z28

I'm attempting to drill it out again but it's not doing anything to that arp bolt. So when you tapped the snout how well did you clean the snout before you tapped it?

trey1010

iTrader: (3)

I didnt, I just got my taps and started turning the taper tap first while spraying lots of WD40 going in a few turns then back out to let the chips out. Then I switched to the bottoming tap to get to the end of the snout, still turning it clockwise then counter clockwise to release the chips.

joecar

You have to use a hard drill bit (made of harder steel than the bolt).

ls1fst98

iTrader: (3)

Trying to drill out an arp bolt while still in the ca must be a PITA

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Ive done 3 engines with a 7/8-14 tap and bolt. All spin over 7000 one to 8000 rpm. I would not replace the crank if it were just a broken crank bolt.

trey1010

iTrader: (3)

+++1,


I tried drilling through my ARP bolt when it broke and i wasted many drill bits.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

How do these bolts break? Tighten too much or what?
How far is it broke off in the snout?
I would try to drill it out, start with a small bit then work your way up.
Start with a 1/4" bit and work your way up. I'm sure that ARP bolt is harden.
May try some titamium bits. Sometimes you can drill all the bolt out and still save the threads.
GL.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Any update?

oxblood!z28

Update here.sorry about the delay... so as of last weekend I tapped the snout with a 3/4-16 and it went well. just got to get a bolt for it now. I'm in the process of putting everything back together as far the disconnected wires and all that good stuff. So far so good and I Greatly Appreciate all the info and help you guys. In case you guys were wondering how it happened I'm not to sure exactly but i think I over torqued it. I followed the LS1Howto.com web site. And it will be my last time going that route. It has good info but I wouldn't recommend it.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

I would also pin the balancer on, cheap insurance.

RezinTexas

did you tap in the same location as the factory threads, or closer to the end of the snout?
It seems that if you chose the latter option, drilling out the old bolt would not even be required?

trey1010

iTrader: (3)

Exactly^ my old broken arp bolt is still in my crank just farther back.

trap_garage5

hey where did u get ur bolt?