Just got some ARP head bolts for my upcoming head swap but I was curious about what compound to use on the bolts for torquing. ARP sent some Ultra Torque lube with the bolts but I thought I read in my GM serivce manual that the head bolts require threadlock? What is everyone using on ARP head bolts? Are all of the head bolt holes blind or are some open to the valley? I am new to the LS1 and still learning so go easy on me if this is a dumb question. Thanks

 

it depends on the year model block you have. dont go by car year unless you are POSITIVE it is the original block.

 

it is a 98 block and judging by the perimeter bolt valve covers I am pretty sure it is original

 

They are all blind holes, use the ARP provided moly and torque to the specs in the box. No threadlock required.

 

yeah, i doubt someone would have swapped out the short block and reused the old heads. either way make sure the bolt holes are clean and dry. chase the threads and clean them two more times than tou think they need to be cleaned. anyway, use the ultra torque and ARP specs.

 

My ARP head bolts came with instructions that provided one set of torque specs if 30 weight motor oll used as assembly lube and another set of torque specs if ARP's head assembly lube was used. My Service Manual does not call for threadlocker on reassembly using GM TTY bolts.

 

Go by the ARP torque specs and use THERE lube. Unless your are using cometic heads gaskets, then I would add 10 ft. lbs. to what ARP tells you to. Make sure the head bolts are for year of block also. '97-2003 use #134-3609 and '2004+ use #134-3610

 

100% agree.

For what it's worth...when I screwed my head studs into my block...I cleaned every hole 3 or 4 times, plus my engine builder had already cleaned my block too...and I still had one stud get about halfway down and feel funny enough to me that I had to clean that hole more...can't stress cleanliness on those enough...they're ALL blind holes, and I've seen too many posts with pictures of damaged blocks from screwing a head bolt or stud down into a hole that wasn't cleaned and dried thoroughly.

 

It took me more time to clean out the holes than it did to get the heads off the car I think.

And that's after blowing them out and letting it sit overnight. There was still coolant and **** in them. Had to take paper towels and twist them and poke them into the holes until they came out dry.

Can't be too careful with those.

 

Could you please clarify...If I am NOT using a cometic (MLS) gasket, then I should add 10 ft lbs???

 

NO. Go by ARP specs then.