ls1 starting build 500rwhp
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ls1 starting build 500rwhp Ill start out by saying im new at this site this is my first time using this and thought id see how it works out.
iv got a stock ls1 im wating to do a lil fixn' up on my goal is around 500rwhp i was thinking about a set of afr205 heads, ported ls6 intake and tb, bigger maf, and cam. im not for sure what cam would go good with that set up. any suggestions or comments would be great thanks! im wanting all motor build no nos, turbo, procharger etc...
iv got a stock ls1 im wating to do a lil fixn' up on my goal is around 500rwhp i was thinking about a set of afr205 heads, ported ls6 intake and tb, bigger maf, and cam. im not for sure what cam would go good with that set up. any suggestions or comments would be great thanks! im wanting all motor build no nos, turbo, procharger etc...
It will take some effort but it can be done. Check this out.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...heads-cam.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...heads-cam.html
takes more than that my friend, we are on the same quest! scrap the intake and Tb for a FAST setup, you will never get enough air in with that... might as well get some 1-7/8" headers instead of 1-3/4" from the git go.... underdrive, fuel pump, elec water pump, injectors,more compression, crazy cam...then it will fry your transmission and a rear end will soon follow, then it wont hook and be outran by a 400hp car, you will get discouraged and it just escalates from there!! know from experience 
I agree with transam. I have nearly the same setup you are describing with the addition of porting by mamo on my heads and an UD pulley on the engine I just built. I'm hoping to be >450hp.
GL with your build though.
GL with your build though.
Air in, air out is the key. Focus on supporting nods first such as trans and rear end...etc then move on to the engine. I say this because broken parts are hard to sell. Your 10 bolt can be sold to offset the cost of a better rear end, same with the transmission unless you plan to have it rebuilt. If you destroy the trans, You Will have more money in it getting it fixed, then rebuilt, or if you sell it for a different one, it won't be worth much at all.
op honest 500 rwhp is very hard to make, if it was easy everyone with a h/c/i would be making 500 to the rear, if your willing to pay the best for everything you might get it you might not,imo if you have the funds i would think about maybe bigger ci
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Air in, air out is the key. Focus on supporting nods first such as trans and rear end...etc then move on to the engine. I say this because broken parts are hard to sell. Your 10 bolt can be sold to offset the cost of a better rear end, same with the transmission unless you plan to have it rebuilt. If you destroy the trans, You Will have more money in it getting it fixed, then rebuilt, or if you sell it for a different one, it won't be worth much at all.
I agree with this statement, although I'm guilty of not following it myself in the past.
i agree shoot for a great running car, whats a dyno number anyway besides a number, its really going to depend on what dyno its on, on a mustang dyno a true 500 hp car is a 600 hp car lol, it depends man, i think its alot better to say it runs 10s than its a dyno queen
want 500rwhp?
LQ9 shortblock, good cam (probably 240s) decent set of heads.. should get you very close.
on an ls1 it's a little bit harder n/a.
with boost 500, 600..800rwhp seems to be the "boring" numbers.
LQ9 shortblock, good cam (probably 240s) decent set of heads.. should get you very close.
on an ls1 it's a little bit harder n/a.
with boost 500, 600..800rwhp seems to be the "boring" numbers.
I've seen conflicting results:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-results.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...xperience.html
I think it more or less comes down to the header design than anything else.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...o-results.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...xperience.html
I think it more or less comes down to the header design than anything else.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PA/MD
1st off, what exactly do you want to do with the car, and how heavy is it? If your looking for a weekend hotrod to sound bad *** rolling down the street and to enter in shows, then you can focus more on just the engine.....but if your running it at the track with good sticky tires and are trying to get good times I would start at the back of the car and work forward (rear end and rear suspension, then driveshaft and tranny, then lastly the engine). If you want to drive it more on the street you will also need it car to have decient manners which will limit your HP goal.
To get more HP you will want to spin the motor faster, so get great parts instead of ok parts, and you might even want to go with a sheetmetal intake and try dooming the engine up to and past 8,000 rpms to hit your goal.
To get more HP you will want to spin the motor faster, so get great parts instead of ok parts, and you might even want to go with a sheetmetal intake and try dooming the engine up to and past 8,000 rpms to hit your goal.
Interesting from someone who knows LS1's
Originally Posted by Brian Tooley
I've posted this about a thousand times, but I'm going to post it one more time.
In the back to back testing we did, heads with 1.55" exhaust valves MADE MORE POWER EVERYWHERE WITH 1 7/8" HEADERS COMPARED TO 1 3/4"
Heads with 1.57" valves seemed to make about the same power either way.
The AFR heads with 1.60" valves made less power with Kooks 1 7/8" headers compared to Hooker 1 3/4" with a cam that had 2 degree split.
So in my humble opinion, his headers were helping his stock heads, but worked against the AFR heads.
Also, Tony is right on with the valve job stuff, more heads are ruined with shops that don't know airflow, performing valve jobs on them, then you can shake a stick at.
I've posted this about a thousand times, but I'm going to post it one more time.
In the back to back testing we did, heads with 1.55" exhaust valves MADE MORE POWER EVERYWHERE WITH 1 7/8" HEADERS COMPARED TO 1 3/4"
Heads with 1.57" valves seemed to make about the same power either way.
The AFR heads with 1.60" valves made less power with Kooks 1 7/8" headers compared to Hooker 1 3/4" with a cam that had 2 degree split.
So in my humble opinion, his headers were helping his stock heads, but worked against the AFR heads.
Also, Tony is right on with the valve job stuff, more heads are ruined with shops that don't know airflow, performing valve jobs on them, then you can shake a stick at.
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whats your budget ?you will need some really nice heads and a custom cam .get a fast 102mm intake and great exhaust system.read Patrick-G thread on making 500rwhp a couple of times to see if you really want to open that can of worms.it mite be easier to buy a TSP ls2 engine ,and get a custom cam.
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takes more than that my friend, we are on the same quest! scrap the intake and Tb for a FAST setup, you will never get enough air in with that... might as well get some 1-7/8" headers instead of 1-3/4" from the git go.... underdrive, fuel pump, elec water pump, injectors,more compression, crazy cam...then it will fry your transmission and a rear end will soon follow, then it wont hook and be outran by a 400hp car, you will get discouraged and it just escalates from there!! know from experience
i know there are several more mods im gonna have to do i was just wanting to start with the motor and go back as of right now its not gonna be a track car im just wanting a bad *** street rod haha. i was looking into a FAST set up but it was just alot of money and a ported ls6 intake seemed better for the after all the looking up i did and im kinda on a budget right now..iv got a 70 chevy im redoing another 4x4 pickup im working on