Cam and stall Matching advise
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From: En Casa del Carajo
Cam and stall Matching advise What's up guys...I have a 98' T/A a4 with 323's,lid,free mods,pp/tb,ls6 intake,LT's,ory,3"cutout on the i-pipe,and a full dyno tune. I wanna know what's the best combo cam/stall setup for what I have so far? I eventually wanna go with a turbo,but not in any time soon. I want for right now a fun street car.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 1
From: En Casa del Carajo
Go with upper 220's to low 230's on lobe duration
New Era,SSHT, 228/232 111lsa
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...mart&Itemid=54
Futral, F11, F12, F13, F14
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
New Era,SSHT, 228/232 111lsa
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...mart&Itemid=54
Futral, F11, F12, F13, F14
http://www.futralmotorsports.com/fms....asp?pf=1&pg=5
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I'm running a similar grind from Cam Motion with an SS4k. See here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html
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On The Tree
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From: Elswhere
F13, EPS 226/230, and maybe Torquer v2, v3 if you're not worried about the .643 lift. An ss3600 will absorb any of those cams with relative ease. I've felt the ss4000 before. Under light load, it feels different (though is still comparable) to the sy3500, but hits much harder at WOT. If it were me, I'd go with the ss3600.
And if you're buying the cam new, try Pat G. He knows stuff.
And if you're buying the cam new, try Pat G. He knows stuff.
Ask Pat G for a custom spec for the cam and then once you have the cam specs go to FTI for the stall.
Of course that's a blanket statement but if it were my car and I was wanting something have fun with I'd go for a custom cam on LSL lobes in the 227/231 .614"/.617" 112+3 range or if you wanted a little bigger go 231/235 .617"/.621" 112+3 with a nice 3800-4000 stall.
Should have a great idle with the little exhaust split and 112lsa with the 3 degrees of advance and that stall will put it right in the sweet spot where it flashes too.
Of course that's a blanket statement but if it were my car and I was wanting something have fun with I'd go for a custom cam on LSL lobes in the 227/231 .614"/.617" 112+3 range or if you wanted a little bigger go 231/235 .617"/.621" 112+3 with a nice 3800-4000 stall.
Should have a great idle with the little exhaust split and 112lsa with the 3 degrees of advance and that stall will put it right in the sweet spot where it flashes too.
I agree with the guys saying high 220, low 230 cam with at least 3600-4000 stall...I have a 224/230 and it is begging for a converter...I would get a little more cam if I did it over again...
Also if you can get cnc ported/aftermarket heads that is the best plan to make the most hp, if you are on a budget get some 243/799 heads and clean up the casting slag I the ports and you will have a head that should flow considerably better than a stock ls1 head...good luck...cam cars are fun as hell to drive!
Also if you can get cnc ported/aftermarket heads that is the best plan to make the most hp, if you are on a budget get some 243/799 heads and clean up the casting slag I the ports and you will have a head that should flow considerably better than a stock ls1 head...good luck...cam cars are fun as hell to drive!
228 is the duration (in crank degrees) that the intake valve is open, same with 230 which is exhaust...lsa is lobe sep angle meaning the angle between int/ex lobes...usually carbed cars like tight lsa, most factory ls1 cams are high like 117 for broad torque curve/drivebilty...most auto cars are running like 114, while stick cars use lower..lower lsa means more torque but at a narrower rpm, higher means more widespread torque...
