Stock ls1 Connecting Rod Question.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 620
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From: Brownsville, texas
Stock ls1 Connecting Rod Question. Guys,
Well i've been working on a Heads and Cam Set up for my car. I was just about to start building the engine when a close friend of mine asked if i got aftermarket rods. And i said "no... arnt they strong enough for my set up?" he said it would be the primary weak link in my set up even with arp bolts.
Here are the specs.
Trickflow 215's CC heads
Ms4 Cam
Forged pistons (the ones on my sig")
Ls6 Intake
Can some one give me some information on if i should get some aftermarket rods and can the stock ones hold up?
Thanks for reading.
Ws6kid.
Well i've been working on a Heads and Cam Set up for my car. I was just about to start building the engine when a close friend of mine asked if i got aftermarket rods. And i said "no... arnt they strong enough for my set up?" he said it would be the primary weak link in my set up even with arp bolts.
Here are the specs.
Trickflow 215's CC heads
Ms4 Cam
Forged pistons (the ones on my sig")
Ls6 Intake
Can some one give me some information on if i should get some aftermarket rods and can the stock ones hold up?
Thanks for reading.
Ws6kid.
Stock rods are pretty tough (usually rods are the weak link in most engines, however it seems the stock pistons are in the Gen III/IV engines), and if you've already had everything balanced and are getting ready for final assembly I would just use what you have. If it really bothers you, forged rods are about $325-$350 or you can look into going with the Gen IV floating style rods. Keep in mind that the LSA uses the same rods (floating) as every other Gen III/IV and they are pushing 580hp with a 100,000 mile warranty. Although FWIW, if you were to go with forged rods, you're bottom end would be able to handle pretty much anything you threw at it.
Personally I think your fine with stock rods and ARP bolts. Unless you're spinning it to the moon and have really heavy pistons. Or massive amounts of boosted pressure.
But maybe one of the more experienced guys will chime in.
But maybe one of the more experienced guys will chime in.
I don't have personal experience but I've been reading as much as I can on here for almost 2.5 years and from what I've read stock rods (first design) are good to between 550-600at the wheels and 7000rpm's with ARP bolts . I read that if You keep the rpm's below 6300 or 6500 You can safely put down 800hp but I personally would'nt try that very many times if at all . Another bit of info that potentially could help alot of poeple is the stock oil pumps pressure drops off like a rock at 6500 and above and they also said that ALL oil pumps after-market included started to foam the oil above 3800rpm's . I forget exactly the source but it was reliable . And Mellings pump which 1 standard or HV or maybe both pressure kept increasing to 8000rpm's
If everything is out of the engine, my advice is stick with the stock rods, have them resized after you install the arp bolts and balance everything. The stock rods will be fine. I had the exact same setup except my engine builder didn't balance it or re size the rods. It hammered itself to death in 1k miles.
But that's beside the point.
Stock rods, arp bolts and have them resized and the crank balanced. Done...
But that's beside the point.
Stock rods, arp bolts and have them resized and the crank balanced. Done...
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I rebuilt my lq4 with the same mhale piston and scat forged I beams with arp 8740 for $300 from texas speed. I know I could have ran the stockers, but I figured for 300 bucks what the heck its apart now.
With rods, it is all about engine speed. The loads on the rods are much higher at TDC and BDC than they are during the power stroke of the engine. As long as you keep your RPMs at a reasonable level, you're going to be fine.
