Mobil 1 or Royal Purple
#41
i've used Castrol Edge in mine for a couple years. I've been happy with it. Last oil change, for some reason, i put Mobil 1. My motor burned a quart of it in 4000 miles. my motor has NEVER burned oil! I will NEVER put Mobil 1 in it again! Mobil 1 has that reputation I've since learned. My nephew used castrol edge in his Formula. Sent oil for analysis a couple times, was told it looked great.
#42
Answer to OP's question: Mobil 1. Yet I would also use Amsoil or Red Line products. Been using M1 5-40 for years, but thinking about trying Red Line 40 during the Vegas summer this year since it will be a DD and used for Solo II. Suppose to be like a 15-40?
#43
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
i've used Castrol Edge in mine for a couple years. I've been happy with it. Last oil change, for some reason, i put Mobil 1. My motor burned a quart of it in 4000 miles. my motor has NEVER burned oil! I will NEVER put Mobil 1 in it again! Mobil 1 has that reputation I've since learned. My nephew used castrol edge in his Formula. Sent oil for analysis a couple times, was told it looked great.
#44
In my experience there is absolutely no harm in running Royal Purple in a street car. It's marketed and sold as the "performance" oil FOR street cars. I ran royal purple in my LS1 for the first 1 1/2 years I had it. Eventually the price, $9.30 a quart began to wear on me and I looked for alternatives. Also, it seems like the Royal Purple oil would burn up quicker, my car was usually low on oil by 3,000 miles.
I made the switch to Mobil 1 which is over $1 cheaper per quart, the car doesn't burn oil as bad and I have noticed no performance loss.
I vote Mobil 1.
I made the switch to Mobil 1 which is over $1 cheaper per quart, the car doesn't burn oil as bad and I have noticed no performance loss.
I vote Mobil 1.
#45
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
I think it has improved in recent years but the old running joke about Royal Purple was "it shears out of grade pouring from the bottle".
Meaning oils can and do shear at the molecular level and get thinner, RP did it so quickly and drastically that this became the running joke. At that it was still fine for a racecar but in a street car your 5w-30 could become a 5w-20.
Like I said I believe they have improved. I also linked the place to research such things, more people NEED to research before they believe advertising, a lot of companies put way more money into advertising than R&D and manage to sell a lot of a junk product doing so.
Meaning oils can and do shear at the molecular level and get thinner, RP did it so quickly and drastically that this became the running joke. At that it was still fine for a racecar but in a street car your 5w-30 could become a 5w-20.
Like I said I believe they have improved. I also linked the place to research such things, more people NEED to research before they believe advertising, a lot of companies put way more money into advertising than R&D and manage to sell a lot of a junk product doing so.
#46
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
That is downright insane if you are running a quality synthetic.
I was draining mine at 5k miles with full synthetic but after about the 3rd time it was coming out so clean it looked like it had been ran for 1500-2000 miles. I now run it around 7k+ unless it gets very dark on the stick.
I use the used oil in lawn mowers and other junk around the house.
#48
TECH Apprentice
Wow 2500? I ran RP in my '04 Blazer, I changed the oil every 10k and the filter at 5k. No bs, my mpg's improved by 1mpg when I switched, and stayed the entire 2 years I owned the truck.
#49
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
The most reasonable explanation for a mileage increase is thin viscosity(what is on the bottle is a RANGE), and as said earlier RP has a history of getting thinner with use faster than most oils. Do you have any documentation to show your particular engine actually wore well with thin oils? Did you try a more basic 5w-20 that cost half as much to see if that gave you a mileage gain?
#50
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
I was able to buy a 55 gallon drum of Royal Purple 10w30 through my place of work for wholesale which worked out to $2.39/QT and have been using it for close to 10 years (it's about gone though, and I've since retired). It has worked great in both my hotrods and the wife's cars.
I'm not gonna say "oil is oil", but there is way too much hype over brands, and even types. If there was a definitive, hands-down "best oil", everyone here would be using the same. Kinda like saying Fords are junk when plenty of peeps have over 100k on theirs with no problems. That said, I am a bit more particular when it comes to filters...
I'm not gonna say "oil is oil", but there is way too much hype over brands, and even types. If there was a definitive, hands-down "best oil", everyone here would be using the same. Kinda like saying Fords are junk when plenty of peeps have over 100k on theirs with no problems. That said, I am a bit more particular when it comes to filters...
#51
What about the weight of oil? I just put in my first 1500 miles on my 5.3 twin turbo. Oil looked great and to be honest the only thing I noticed was after driving it a couple hours on the road the valve train was a little noisy. No performance loss just a little noisy. Today I put in Valvoline 20w 50 and no noise but the car feels just a tad sluggish. Is that even possible?
I had in Mobile 1 10W 30. Didn't burn any oil and no blow by. Not sure why I let the rattle bother me for a change. I thought the piston slap sound was strictly on start up. mine sounds fine on start up. Its just when it has been driven a couple hours and the engine is hot.
I had in Mobile 1 10W 30. Didn't burn any oil and no blow by. Not sure why I let the rattle bother me for a change. I thought the piston slap sound was strictly on start up. mine sounds fine on start up. Its just when it has been driven a couple hours and the engine is hot.