need cam selection help
#21
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id reccomend the exact cam I am running in my LS2 GTO
226/234 .600/.600 112 from advanced induciton its a great running cam will idle at 800rpm and sound great....with a good tune i can cruise at 1100 rpm and climb hills in 5th gear no problem....AI has a full kit ready to go for your car with psi springs, valve seals, pushrods and the cam......
http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamKits.php
heres a little video of the car....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ers3hZTo-qM
good luck!!
226/234 .600/.600 112 from advanced induciton its a great running cam will idle at 800rpm and sound great....with a good tune i can cruise at 1100 rpm and climb hills in 5th gear no problem....AI has a full kit ready to go for your car with psi springs, valve seals, pushrods and the cam......
http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamKits.php
heres a little video of the car....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ers3hZTo-qM
good luck!!
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#22
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If you get a cam you hate, then you are out the money and time......should just go with what you want in the first place, in the big picture (unless going wild) a cam swap is a cam swap and costs about the same amount of money whether you put in a very small cam, or a bigger mid size cam.
Yes I mean there is a big difference
Yes I mean there is a big difference
#24
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They are different ramp rates....the slower the ramp rate generally the easier it will be on valve springs, the faster ramp rate will open quicker giving more power, but harder on springs
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id reccomend the exact cam I am running in my LS2 GTO
226/234 .600/.600 112 from advanced induciton its a great running cam will idle at 800rpm and sound great....with a good tune i can cruise at 1100 rpm and climb hills in 5th gear no problem....AI has a full kit ready to go for your car with psi springs, valve seals, pushrods and the cam......
http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamKits.php
heres a little video of the car....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ers3hZTo-qM
good luck!!![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
226/234 .600/.600 112 from advanced induciton its a great running cam will idle at 800rpm and sound great....with a good tune i can cruise at 1100 rpm and climb hills in 5th gear no problem....AI has a full kit ready to go for your car with psi springs, valve seals, pushrods and the cam......
http://advancedinduction.com/LSX/AiLSxCamKits.php
heres a little video of the car....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ers3hZTo-qM
good luck!!
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would that be to big for a 3600 stall converter?
also what does the plus 4 mean?
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I found a real good deal on the 236 240 601/608 113 lsa + 4. I have 04 corvette valve springs and push rods will those work for this cam or do I need to find better ones?
and if so are there any stock valve springs and PR's i could look for that would work?
and if so are there any stock valve springs and PR's i could look for that would work?
#31
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the 3600 will drive ok with that......wont be optimized at the track but it will drive.........being an auto it will drive better than a stick but if you are looking for a well mannered DD cam that is a bit agressive on duration for a stock longblock car........with a good tuner it should run fine but its still quite a decent bumpstick for a DD car.......plus with that 113+4 and that duration i got a feeling its going to want to rev quite a bit.....possibly more than you will want to....also again its hard to determine the agressiveness of the lobe but from looking at those numbers i think you will prob need a decent set of springs
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You will need aftermarket valve springs and hardened push rods for any aftermarket cam. With a cam that size you will most certainly want to invest in a good set of dual valve springs.
#33
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I ran a 238/242 .595/.595 112lsa in my GTO with a 4,000 stall and love it even though it was a hair too big. 236/240 is really pushing it for a 3,600 stall, you could drive it but I don't think you will get the most out of it without jumping up to a 4,000 stall.
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the 3600 will drive ok with that......wont be optimized at the track but it will drive.........being an auto it will drive better than a stick but if you are looking for a well mannered DD cam that is a bit agressive on duration for a stock longblock car........with a good tuner it should run fine but its still quite a decent bumpstick for a DD car.......plus with that 113+4 and that duration i got a feeling its going to want to rev quite a bit.....possibly more than you will want to....also again its hard to determine the agressiveness of the lobe but from looking at those numbers i think you will prob need a decent set of springs
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what will be the symptoms of having to low of a stall?
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I have also been concerting doing 1.75 comp cams rocker arms and maybe a 25% under drive pully. any opinions on those two mods? if they are worth it and how much gain you get from them?
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If i were you, I would save money and do comps trunion upgrade for your stock rockers. That will be sufficient for your build. I thought about doing a 25% under drive pulley at one time but, I read quite a few threads that convinced me that the gain isn't worth the cost. So IMO i wouldn't do the under drive pulley since you aren't looking for every little bit of power you can get. Stick to the main things for now like Cam, Heads, Intake. Just my 2 cents. Hope your build goes great.
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If i were you, I would save money and do comps trunion upgrade for your stock rockers. That will be sufficient for your build. I thought about doing a 25% under drive pulley at one time but, I read quite a few threads that convinced me that the gain isn't worth the cost. So IMO i wouldn't do the under drive pulley since you aren't looking for every little bit of power you can get. Stick to the main things for now like Cam, Heads, Intake. Just my 2 cents. Hope your build goes great.
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Comp's trunion upgrade replaces the needle bearings in your rocker with caged roller bearings. This allows you to run higher rpms and higher valve spring pressure without worrying. The needle bearings can no longer fly out of the rocker and into the rest of the valve train.
Last edited by njmaster; 04-25-2012 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Spelling
#40
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Pulling through the brakes, and bogging down when you mash it.
For instance with my 4,000 rpm stall when you went to take off part throttle from a light the engine would rev up to just around 1,100+-rpms and start to roll....but if you mash the pedal full throttle it would spin up to 4,200+- rpms and of like a rocket.
Just takes slightly more pedal effort to get rolling, but you get used to it, and like it in a day or two
For instance with my 4,000 rpm stall when you went to take off part throttle from a light the engine would rev up to just around 1,100+-rpms and start to roll....but if you mash the pedal full throttle it would spin up to 4,200+- rpms and of like a rocket.
Just takes slightly more pedal effort to get rolling, but you get used to it, and like it in a day or two
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