What are these?
#6
Go down to step 10.
http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19612
http://www.g8board.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19612
It's time to get the parts box out, and to check for that part.
I don't recall ever removing it, but it's been a long time since the engine was originally disassembled.
The engine has been running without it, since the new chain install a year ago.
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#8
I've been doing some reading.
The LS2 tensioner has the same physical dimensions as the LS1 tensioner(mine). However, the bolt hole width is farther apart on the LS1 version.
Some people have taken a LS2 tensioner, and re-engineered the bolt holes to adapt to the LS1.
Some have re-drilled the LS1 block to adapt the Ls2 tensioner.
The LS1 tensioner is no longer available new, unless someone knows of an after market manufacturer.
There are people who have run without the tensioner.
I'd prefer to find one that doesn't cost $50.
...and so, I've got my wish....here's one for the unbelievably low price of $95.
I realize that they're discontinued, but this is plain gouging.
http://store.katechengines.com/dampe...-ls6-p260.aspx
The LS2 tensioner has the same physical dimensions as the LS1 tensioner(mine). However, the bolt hole width is farther apart on the LS1 version.
Some people have taken a LS2 tensioner, and re-engineered the bolt holes to adapt to the LS1.
Some have re-drilled the LS1 block to adapt the Ls2 tensioner.
The LS1 tensioner is no longer available new, unless someone knows of an after market manufacturer.
There are people who have run without the tensioner.
I'd prefer to find one that doesn't cost $50.
...and so, I've got my wish....here's one for the unbelievably low price of $95.
I realize that they're discontinued, but this is plain gouging.
http://store.katechengines.com/dampe...-ls6-p260.aspx
Last edited by gMAG; 04-17-2012 at 10:42 AM.
#11
#13
Well, I'm gonna call Summit tommorrow & ask them to verify the spacing on the holes. Usually, the black piece (as opposed to the tan LS1 piece) indicates LS2 spacing.
I saw that piece today and skipped over it because of the LS2/3 application.
After reading some more, there are some LS6 blocks that are drilled for the closer bolt hole spacing (LS2).
Thanks for your experience.
I'll report back soon.
I saw that piece today and skipped over it because of the LS2/3 application.
After reading some more, there are some LS6 blocks that are drilled for the closer bolt hole spacing (LS2).
Thanks for your experience.
I'll report back soon.
#16
OK, here's the verdict.....I spoke with Trick Flow, and the engineer told me that the bolt spacing is 1 3/4"ish (LS2).
If one examines the piece in Summit's ad, you'll see that the holes are centered (LS2).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30675540/
Then, looking at a photo of an altered LS2 to LS1 version, the holes have been moved down & outward (LS1 2.185").
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200743643239...S:3160&vxp=mtr
I forgot to ask them if they have plans to produce an LS1 version.
If anyone would like to propose this, their tel# is 330-630-1555.
I bought the altered version on ebay for $49.95 + 13.45 shipping....expensive, but sure beats $95 + ship for the tan original!
Thanks to everyone for the input.
If one examines the piece in Summit's ad, you'll see that the holes are centered (LS2).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30675540/
Then, looking at a photo of an altered LS2 to LS1 version, the holes have been moved down & outward (LS1 2.185").
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200743643239...S:3160&vxp=mtr
I forgot to ask them if they have plans to produce an LS1 version.
If anyone would like to propose this, their tel# is 330-630-1555.
I bought the altered version on ebay for $49.95 + 13.45 shipping....expensive, but sure beats $95 + ship for the tan original!
Thanks to everyone for the input.
Last edited by gMAG; 04-17-2012 at 11:22 AM.
#17
My LS6 from my 2004 GTO did not have one from the factory.
I'd really like to know what, if any drawbacks there are when NOT running a dampener at all. I swapped over to an LS2 403 ci Shortblock several years back, and did NOT put a dampener on there. Only upgrade was a new LS2 timing chain. Twind turbo, XE-R Comp, Patriot duals and about 10K miles before tearing it apart recently.
I just purchaced an N Motion Single Roller timing Set from Texas Speed, and it did not include a dampener. (FWIW, The JP / N Motion chain meaures smaller than a stock LS2 When measuring the thickness of the inside/outside steel components. (They said it was "Much Beefier than the LS2" which I was interested in.) It also has more play in it when holding it sideways, if that matters.)
Anyways, sorry to take over. Anyone who can share some info on the Dampener vs. no dampener would be really appreciated as I'm in the middle of my long block assembly.
I'd really like to know what, if any drawbacks there are when NOT running a dampener at all. I swapped over to an LS2 403 ci Shortblock several years back, and did NOT put a dampener on there. Only upgrade was a new LS2 timing chain. Twind turbo, XE-R Comp, Patriot duals and about 10K miles before tearing it apart recently.
I just purchaced an N Motion Single Roller timing Set from Texas Speed, and it did not include a dampener. (FWIW, The JP / N Motion chain meaures smaller than a stock LS2 When measuring the thickness of the inside/outside steel components. (They said it was "Much Beefier than the LS2" which I was interested in.) It also has more play in it when holding it sideways, if that matters.)
Anyways, sorry to take over. Anyone who can share some info on the Dampener vs. no dampener would be really appreciated as I'm in the middle of my long block assembly.
#18
I would think that it's not an issue until the chain becomes stretched. Then, there is a need to control excess chain slapping.
Of course, the quality of the chain has alot to do with it's longevity.
Even though the chain is relatively new, the cover is off, and I'm going to add the part.
Of course, the quality of the chain has alot to do with it's longevity.
Even though the chain is relatively new, the cover is off, and I'm going to add the part.