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Cleaning/Inspecting 6.0L *see page 3* opinions wanted

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Old 04-27-2012, 10:40 AM
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Tried to snap some better pics. Whats with the pitting? Think previous owner blew a gasket and coolant got to the pistons. Would that make it look pitted?

Wondering if I should even run this **** or finally say **** it and return it all. tired of this BS with this guy. Bottom end looked great, now I take just one head off and find this.

Piston #1 is looking like a new piston(the last 7 pics), but not all the other ones.





































Old 04-27-2012, 12:14 PM
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I think you need to get as far away from anything this guy has handled as possible.
Old 04-27-2012, 12:18 PM
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I swear I need the best medicine there is right now for headaches.

I cant catch a break here.
Old 04-27-2012, 12:52 PM
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Take it back yesterday! That's horrible.
Old 04-27-2012, 12:59 PM
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What causes this?

Especially the one that's the worse(im sure you can figure it out) its cylinder number 7

Sitting too long? I've seen bare blocks that have sat around that looked like this but very very minimal. Since they were bare just needed a light hone. But I have a assembled block, no way I'm tearing this **** apart.

But never seen cylinders this bad, as bad as #7 is.

Bottom end looked great, but I just had to pull the heads and be disappointed.
Old 04-27-2012, 01:32 PM
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I think that had to sit full of rainwater for an extended period of time and the rebuilder should have scrapped it.

Was that tag attached? If not I would think they swapped the tag on from elsewhere. If it was I might contact someone at GM and let them fire whatever shop they had rebuild it because that is not up to anyone's standards.
Old 04-27-2012, 01:34 PM
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Okay so mind you, I purchased this take out for my dad to put into his project car. Since he is 3000 miles away on the east coast at work I'm doing all the searching for him.

Scenarios to play out.

#1- I will disassemble to block, take it to machine shop and have them hone/bore whatever needs to be done to the cylinders. Buy new pistons and rings and whatever else I see that needs to be replaced- Any TTY bolts as well. And he will either pay for it or will go to court for it

#2- Will be taking all this **** back, EVERYTHING. And he will waive the bullshit 25% restocking fee and give me every last penny. Or I will go straight to the court house.

I'm liking option #2 cause after all this **** I don't even want to know whats the deal on the transmission. I haven't even opened up that yet. All this with two motors I don't trust the trans. Rather run a trans with over 100k on it then to run this "0 miles" transmission.
Old 04-27-2012, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I think that had to sit full of rainwater for an extended period of time and the rebuilder should have scrapped it.

Was that tag attached? If not I would think they swapped the tag on from elsewhere. If it was I might contact someone at GM and let them fire whatever shop they had rebuild it because that is not up to anyone's standards.
The metal General Motors tag was attached to it with some kinda adhesive. Looks like its been on there for a while though. Not nothing they just tried to slap on there before I seen it. Or they might have slapped it on there a long time ago before I even first showed up at that place.
Old 04-27-2012, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BOXCHEV
The metal General Motors tag was attached to it with some kinda adhesive. Looks like its been on there for a while though. Not nothing they just tried to slap on there before I seen it. Or they might have slapped it on there a long time ago before I even first showed up at that place.
Man, some guys you just cant please, they gave you a metal tag and one new piston this time ,what do want for 2 grand ! But seriously I was hoping this would turn out alright for you, but rarely it does ! You have done a couple things right , taking the heads off the this last one. Trust but verify, its clear this yard is scamming doing shoddy half *** overhauls and misrepresented in their sales.And you have recorded all your conversations with the owner right The thing that sucks is you payed good money for a 6k rebuild and your not going to get it .If real justice was dealt they should have to provide you with that or better.But in reality the best you probably get in court is a full refund.
Old 04-27-2012, 04:42 PM
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All I want is a full refund and there be no problems from me..Or I can cause him headache and go to court..all his choice.

I will go elsewhere to look for what I need. Next place I will have them pull pan and both heads before I purchase.
Old 04-27-2012, 05:47 PM
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Thx for the ebay tip! Hope everything turns out in your favor.
Old 04-27-2012, 07:10 PM
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How difficult are we talking when it comes to assembling a short block? I've seen GEN I sbc assembled. Bearings, crank, rods, and pistons. Haven't seen anything detailed on piston rings. Never torn completely into a block before.

Doesn't seem that difficult with proper tools, attention to detail, and double check things 3-4 times before moving on..

Hoping to invest into snapon torque wrenches shorty. Might even buy used and just have them re-calibrated.

I wont be rebuilding this one, but I think next time for my swap I might just buy a bare block and piece it together myself. Save the headache.
Old 04-27-2012, 08:05 PM
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I have bought a couple junkyard engines and each was just as advertized so it is not all yards. I think you just got mixed up with a really bad one.
Old 04-27-2012, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I have bought a couple junkyard engines and each was just as advertized so it is not all yards. I think you just got mixed up with a really bad one.
Well, I have bought hundreds of parts from salvage yards over the years.While most yards are reputable and are good business to deal with this all to common with some yards. Especially with engines and transmissions.The bad yards know this game very well and know how to play it there advantage.The know that most retail customers are not going to the trouble to open up a engine or trans to check it. It can be difficult to to prove the the difference between a 30k motor and 90k in court.The ones I have torn down few over years, play out like this a 12k motor looks like 30 k wear. 30k looks like 70k wear and 90k looks like 180k . Is it not funny that there there are so many low mileage motors out there. These yards have all these 10 year old LS1s with 30k on them .That's Less than 3k a year, the average car is driven 15k a year but here areall these low mileage ones out there. Come on man get real.I have said time and time again that we should have a buyer feedback for recycle yards on here buyer beware Lets report the good the bad and the ugly.
Old 04-27-2012, 10:11 PM
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I never believe a word that comes outta their mouth about mileage, we can verify that by the numbers on the block then match that with the vin then look up the last reported mileage on a report, sometimes the last mileage on the report could be 2-3 year ago, and just this year it could have been wrecked and branded salvage title at the dismantler. So from there gotta round off what you might THINK could be mileage.

Next motor I buy I want to look up vin, want the pan pulled, and I want the heads pulled. Or even better I want to see it in the vehicle it will be pulled from and if possible started with compression and leak down test done right then and there.

Guess I got lil too excited thinking I was getting a killer deal, when in reality it was a terrible transaction and now I will have to probably fight to get the money back. Lesson learned.

Just don't like when **** is claimed to be a complete rebuild with little miles on it and crack it open and it looks like ****. Take it back, show me another motor pull the pan and it looks great. "you guys are hitting the jackpot with this one, its cherry" ahaha whatever man. "its a brand new block from GM". Pull the heads and **** needs to be honed/bored out now. Just really bad business.

I even broken down to actually looking on ebay, seen an lq9 on there and video of it running.
Old 04-27-2012, 11:28 PM
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Where are you? not all yards on on car-part, maybe someone else will have a local lead for you?
Old 04-27-2012, 11:34 PM
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( Or even better I want to see it in the vehicle it will be pulled from and if possible started with compression and leak down test done right then and there.)

Like I said Trust but verify, yes this is my preferred method to verify try to deal with yards that are still in the vehicle.This way you can see mileage and condition that it is coming from. A old car is like a book you just need to know how to read it ,it can tell you a lot about its life.Yards that pull and shelf or worse throw in a pile ,out in the weather. are ones to avoid .
Old 04-27-2012, 11:55 PM
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Sacramento,ca

Local LKQ wanted $2800 for just motor over 100k on it. So avoided them, there is a LKQ in Stockton, Ca not far from here at all, tried doing a inventory search on lkqcorp.com but it keeps giving me results for motors all the way in Redding, Ca. Which is a little drive and don't want to travel that far at all.

When I get the money back I'm going to go take a second look here. I think guy quoted me $2500 for 6.0 and trans with around 130k.

http://subwaytruckparts.com/wordpress/

2002
Engine
Cadillac Escalade
96K NEEDS 311
$1650

Or

http://www.cordovatruckdism.com/index.htm

http://www.cordovatruckdism.com/engineprogram.htm

2004
Engine
Chevy Truck Silverado 1500
(127K)150 45/30/75 20'(RUNS GOOD)COMPLETE CHANGEOVER
$1350


Would kinda rather have something from an escalade or tahoe etc. I'm willing to bet those suv would be babied more then a sierra/silverado work truck with a lot of mileage on them that were probably ran hard and hauled/towed ****.

Last edited by BOXCHEV; 04-28-2012 at 12:31 AM.
Old 04-28-2012, 09:11 AM
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If you would show us your original invoice, and or a least tell us the name of yard that tried to scam you. You living in California explains the high prices you are contending with in your search, California has the highest prices in the country,they are really proud of their junk out there. Reach out a little further and pay to ship it.
Old 04-28-2012, 04:25 PM
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Place is called

All Truck Parts
11407 Elks Cir
Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742

As far as buying a motor or transmission from these people I advise you to RUN!!!! away.

Only way I suggest purchasing something from these guys is if you are getting it dirt cheap and already have plans of an rebuild. This is definitely not a place to purchase a motor for a budget or quick swap thinking you can purchase the motor and just drop it in.

Maybe if you are looking for other non mechanical parts you could deal with them but as far as a motor and transmission go. Just coast right on pass these guys.

Only good thing out of this terrible situation is that I got my money back 100% refund no problems.

Not sure if he is doing shady business or maybe he sold me that **** and he is completely unaware of what his workers do. I don't know for sure, so I wont completely blast fire under their asses. But I just know not to spend my money there anymore. He sold me something under false pretences if it be he knew about it or didn't, I can't say.

I suggest they get better at documenting their inventory, keeping records of all vehicles they get in so they can cross reference any part that is removed and what worker worked on whatever vehicle before they end up in court over a case of fraud.


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