BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Going to be headed out today or tomorrow to look at motors.

Just took another look on Car-Part.com and these ******** relisted the same engine(the pics shown on top of page 3)

Now they have it listed as

2002
Engine
Chevy Truck Silverado 2500
1 YEAR WARR. COMPLETE REFURB ENGINE
$1300

When it used to say

2002
Engine
Hummer H2
1 YEAR WARR. COMPLETE REFURB ENGINE
$1500

This guy is a joke. Might have to make a complaint to BBB. Save other people from being scammed.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

You absolutely MUST file a claim with the BBB. Maybe even go as far as to call the local newspaper and explain the circumstances. Expose the scammer for the shady dealings he takes part in. No sense in more innocent customers getting screwed. If there is one thing in this world I would not tolerate, it'd be a scammer. They're the scum of the earth.

Good luck with your build and I'm keeping my fingers crossed you finally get the 6.0L engine you keep waiting for.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man, liars and thieves are the worst.

I have a thread on NorCal lsx forums to warn any locals.

Will also be leaving a review on google maps, I can select the business and leave a review there.

Hoping to find a motor and trans, something nice before this weekend hopefully.

ScottyBG

You know if it were me, I would have kept the first motor. The second motor concerns me more. I didn't think the first one looked that bad, the carbon is dirty and unsightly, but I'm not sure it is such a problem. I pulled my LS1 apart about 30K miles ago and it looked similar. I changed heads, cam, lifters, etc, that's why I pulled it apart. Compression on all cylinders was good before the teardown, and all the cylinder bores looked fine, so I put it back together and ran it. I cleaned out what carbon I could easily while it was apart, and ran a little seafoam in the oil a couple times. What I think happened in my case was the PCV valve clogged up, it was plugged when I bought the car. I fixed that problem, I replaced the PCV valve and all of the tubing, as it was all full of crap. I think since there is always a little "blow by", that's why we have PCV in the first place, if it is not getting sucked out, you get that carbon from the combustion builds up in the crank case like that. It is likely the first 6.0 you got suffered from the same problem. Although there was this golden brown deposit on all the the stationary surfaces the key parts were nice and clean, like the cam bearings upon pulling the cam.

I do know the oil in my engine, that looked like your first one, was changed every 3000 miles, with Mobil 1 5W30, I got all the records from the GM dealer that serviced it, so it wasn't a lack of oil changes that caused it. Fortunatly it was all dealer serviced, since it was a 1 owner car, and the person that owned it before me didn't know the difference between a wrench and a screwdriver. I conclude this because if they can't tell a PCV system is not working from the odor under the hood while idling, they arn't much of a wrench.

I do think the head bolts on your engine were reused, which is technically not supposed to be done. I would not do it, I have never tried it. Maybe for a grocery hauler it would work? I think the heads were sent to a shop, were cleaned in a hot tank and given a valve job. That's why they looked like new. I would have cleaned the pistons with a little brake cleaner and scotch brite, then wiped the bores down with a light coat of motor oil. I would have pulled the cam and lifters for inspection too. If all was good there, I would get new head gaskets and a new set of head bolts, and ran it. I've tore down a good number of junk yard motors in my life, and I have seen far worse than either of your motors looked. I have taken motors that look similar to the ones you got and ran them for thousands of miles with little trouble. Junkyard motors are hit and miss, you can get some gems, and some doozies. If your expecting somthing that looks like new, you should probably have considered buying a crate motor, or rebuild from one of the sponsors. I don't think what you brought from your junkyard was all that different from what is typically sold for the price you paid.

Junk yard transimssions, for me are another story, I've always had bad luck with them. Maybe its just me? Most of them have died on me within the first year. Having learned from this, I always buy a rebuilt dyno tested unit, with a warranty.


Just a different perspective.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

He didn't pay for something he could patch up, he paid for a good motor.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

@ScottyBG

I agree. Probably could have ran the first motor without much issue. But it was the principle of the matter. He sold me a motor that was supposed to be a fresh rebuild. Not a engine that had 50-150k miles on it, or who knows the exact miles it had cause they sure as hell didn't know due to their terrible filing system.

Yes I originally walked in there asking for a 6.0L with 90k or less. Said he had something for me. Turned out to be a 99 motor. I told him I was only interested in 2001+ from the start. Said he had a rebuilt motor for me, he was asking a lot more for this one but he eventually gave it to me to make it all right.

Assume cleaning up the block, having the heads cleaned up is considered a rebuild. He was more then likely under the assumption that I wasn't going to crack open the block to have a look....He was wrong

Shows me another motor, "brand new block from GM". Crack that one open, no good.

I knew what to expect when purchasing a used motor, but don't tell me and sell me a engine that was suppose to be a rebuild, complete refurbished then I open it up to find issues. Who the hell rebuilds **** like that?

Now I'm thinking...actually no I KNOW they probably got a scotch brite and some purpler power. Cleaned up the trans and just put new seals on it. 0 mile transmission yeah right. They probably never even pull the trans pan before.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Carry on...

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Maybe you should actually read the whole thread. Not being an *** but if you read everything then you would understand the situation.

Like I said I was told the motor was a rebuild, then second motor was supposed to be a new block from GM. Remanufactured block.

I wasn't paying for a engine with 50k++ miles on it. If I was then I wouldn't complain, I mean what should I expect with a motor with a bit of miles on it.. That wasn't the case here. It's not being picky. Just sell me something that is correct like you say it is, and not bullshit..

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Ahh I see, it was a 6K motor. I was looking at the 100K....

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

I've only dealt with dismnatlers for small things like window motors etc.

But since when hit you over the head for core charges? Everyplace I ever went to find a motor and trans they never brought up core charges.

Went to one place today and they killed me with core charges. Then wanted to charge $150 for the altenator/AC/starter/brackets. However they will toss in the harness and pedal

$2850 for LQ9 96K and 4l60e with 63k. Both are still in the vehicles.

They want like $150-$200 for 4l80e core and $50 for 4l60e core. $200 for engine core.

6.0 are hard to find around here for decent price under 100k.

5.3L are EVERYWHERE however.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

Investing in a borescope might help you out. I got burnt as well (not as bad as you did) and will never buy another without taking a borescope with me.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

Boxchev,
Sorry to hear about your troubles man. Have you tried looking for something a little further away, and having it shipped in? It may be worth the extra cash, definitely worth a shot at least. Those prices sound pretty high, but you do live in California, so I guess it comes with the territory. I only paid 1500 for my LQ4 out of a 2005 Yukon 2500XL with 30k and they threw in a 20k trans for 500.00. It was actually 2 states away, but they shipped it for free since they had a truck coming that way anyway.

On another note, I'd definitely get my money back from that yard, or at least make an attempt to before pursuing legal action. I pulled the pan off my LQ4 (which now has close to 100k) and it looks like the 2nd engine you were given. That first one looks more like it came from a fleet vehicle.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

@Blu99T/A

I definitely need to invest into some of these more important tools. I would love to attempt assembling my own short block. Really dose not seem that hard. Double check and attention to detail. Plus ls1tech, tech support haha.

@GA95DCMSS

Yes it sucks living in Cali. Like I've said before these yards here must think the rods are made of gold or something. I've seen 2xx,xxx miles 6.0's for $950 on car-part.

It's coming to the point where I will just settle for a 5.3L. Save some money and come across core 6.0 and build it up while I run the 5.3 and then just swap them over for a direct swap.

BTW Yes I got every penny back from those bastards. O and what place did you purchase your motor from if you don't mind me asking?

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

I'll have to look in my paperwork to be 100% sure, and that wont be till Sunday probably when I get back to NC, but I'll shoot you a PM when I do.

omc8

iTrader: (7)

Thats what I said reach out and pay for the shipping , check out LKQ I believe if they have it in their network they will ship to the nearest yard closest to you free . They are reputable and have a vast supply of LS engines.

omc8

iTrader: (7)

Just checked LKQ all the LQ4s they have right now are high mileage 90k and up , but they said they can sell me a reman 3yr unlimited mileage for $ 1964 delivered to me. shipping free. Not sure about Cali , if interested PM me for details. You may be better off to just build a fresh one yourself!

s346k

iTrader: (4)

you could buy a 5.3 and make an iron ls1 out of it fairly easily. unless you're dead set on using a 6 liter i think that would be a viable option, esp if they are readily available and cheap in your area.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Gotta watch re man engines. Eps lkq.
Most of them are sealed with tattle tale plugs on them. If you take the heads off, or over heat it, your warranty is void. So if you plan on a remand engine, plan on leaving it stock.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Searching a little further out seems fine but then what happens when I receive something like I got before. I would need some LKQ places people recommend. From searching not all LKQ places are nice to deal with.

omc8

iTrader: (7)

Those jell caps tell if the engine ever got hot, are there seals to show that the head was taken off ?