MFCptnMorgan

iTrader: (1)

Always wondered what the advantages were for one or the other. Thanks

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Can't go wrong with either. I use the ARP bolts. Make sure to use the ARP moly lube and torque to their specs.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Both much stronger than stock head bolts, dont need to be torqued to yield which means no torque angle gauge needed in the tight confines of an Fbody engine compartment. Torque to 75 ft lb & your done. Head studs have higher clamping capacity which is recommended for FI but make it more difficult to remove heads with engine in the car.

mark21742

Granted I'm running an iron block, but the ARP bolts have worked fine on my 408 with 12.5:1 compression and 8,000 rpms

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

get the studs, easier than bolts.. and you can do them in car just as easy as bolts... + your dont ever have to worry about coolant in the threads..

BadAndy

On this topic, IDK whether I really need studs for a close to stock ls1 cr that will probably never see more than 10 lbs of boost. Likewise I would think I needed main studs even less at this power level. Is it foolish not to by $500 worth of studs for an engine that only does around 550-600whp?

mikey67

Head studs will be subject to the wear and tear of assembly/disassembly and hold up much better than the threads in your aluminum block.

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

Studs are superior for two reasons. The when you torque the they are more accurate because you are only torquing the nut. Studs also have the advantage like someone else said that they aren't nearly as hard on the threads in the block.

I am not certain but I think they are also a little stronger(might just be the better torque) but all of the difference between the two are very minimal. For your case bolts will be just fine in my opinion. It never hurts to upgrade for such a fairly small amount of money compared to the rest of your build.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Try $245, Look at some of the sponsors. Summit Racing and Jegs are the ones charging $300+

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Let's throw the other wrench in the question....

hex head or 12pt, and why?

SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

+1 thats what i want to know. after reading all these topics about studs, it makes me think twice on why i purchased bolts for my soon to be head swap.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

There is no difference. The amount of wrenching points on the nut only enables you to get a socket on it at nearly any angle. Less prone to rounding the nut too.

The strength of the nut...that could be subjective. IMHO the hex nut is thicker, but the threads are the weak link.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Question is, how much harder is it to take the heads off with studs while in the car? And do you have to raise the engine at all to do so?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I researched this as well. Many will say you can remove the heads with no issues.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I read a thread about exactly this about a week ago and the concensus was it's very easy to swap them leaving the studs installed.

Never have to worry about a coolant cracked block. That's what swayed my decision.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Studs are always better, especially in an aluminum block because:

-Studs are fully threaded to the bottom of the thread bore. With bolts, you're using fewer threads.

-Studs do not turn within the block threads reducing the chance of damaging them. This is less important in an iron block.

-With studs, there's no worry of hydraulically fracturing the block.

-With studs, the nutted end has fine threads making the clamping force of torquing them more accurate.

Studs are easy to install. They have a Allen hex recess on the top end allowing them to spin in easily.

12 point nuts are more "convenient" to use as you can use a smaller socket and it's better locked into it.

ARP bolts are a good step up from stock bolts but studs are the better bet.

94Z28-MSTGKLR

iTrader: (20)

Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Dude that totally depends on your pocket book. I would stud all I could if I had the $$$

94Z28-MSTGKLR

iTrader: (20)

Yeah, thats what I'm thinking. I found main studs but I can't find rod studs. All I can find are"arp cracked rods" bolts...

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I don't believe they make studs for rods.