Arp head bolts vs arp head studs
Both much stronger than stock head bolts, dont need to be torqued to yield which means no torque angle gauge needed in the tight confines of an Fbody engine compartment. Torque to 75 ft lb & your done. Head studs have higher clamping capacity which is recommended for FI but make it more difficult to remove heads with engine in the car.
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On this topic, IDK whether I really need studs for a close to stock ls1 cr that will probably never see more than 10 lbs of boost. Likewise I would think I needed main studs even less at this power level. Is it foolish not to by $500 worth of studs for an engine that only does around 550-600whp?
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Studs are superior for two reasons. The when you torque the they are more accurate because you are only torquing the nut. Studs also have the advantage like someone else said that they aren't nearly as hard on the threads in the block.
I am not certain but I think they are also a little stronger(might just be the better torque) but all of the difference between the two are very minimal. For your case bolts will be just fine in my opinion. It never hurts to upgrade for such a fairly small amount of money compared to the rest of your build.
I am not certain but I think they are also a little stronger(might just be the better torque) but all of the difference between the two are very minimal. For your case bolts will be just fine in my opinion. It never hurts to upgrade for such a fairly small amount of money compared to the rest of your build.
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On this topic, IDK whether I really need studs for a close to stock ls1 cr that will probably never see more than 10 lbs of boost. Likewise I would think I needed main studs even less at this power level. Is it foolish not to by $500 worth of studs for an engine that only does around 550-600whp?
Try $245, Look at some of the sponsors. Summit Racing and Jegs are the ones charging $300+
The strength of the nut...that could be subjective. IMHO the hex nut is thicker, but the threads are the weak link.
Never have to worry about a coolant cracked block. That's what swayed my decision.
Studs are always better, especially in an aluminum block because:
-Studs are fully threaded to the bottom of the thread bore. With bolts, you're using fewer threads.
-Studs do not turn within the block threads reducing the chance of damaging them. This is less important in an iron block.
-With studs, there's no worry of hydraulically fracturing the block.
-With studs, the nutted end has fine threads making the clamping force of torquing them more accurate.
Studs are easy to install. They have a Allen hex recess on the top end allowing them to spin in easily.
12 point nuts are more "convenient" to use as you can use a smaller socket and it's better locked into it.
ARP bolts are a good step up from stock bolts but studs are the better bet.
-Studs are fully threaded to the bottom of the thread bore. With bolts, you're using fewer threads.
-Studs do not turn within the block threads reducing the chance of damaging them. This is less important in an iron block.
-With studs, there's no worry of hydraulically fracturing the block.
-With studs, the nutted end has fine threads making the clamping force of torquing them more accurate.
Studs are easy to install. They have a Allen hex recess on the top end allowing them to spin in easily.
12 point nuts are more "convenient" to use as you can use a smaller socket and it's better locked into it.
ARP bolts are a good step up from stock bolts but studs are the better bet.
Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?
Sorry to jack your thread but I have a question reguarding this. Next spring I plan to instal new crank, rod bearings, along with a fresh hone and new rings. All on the stock bottom end. I am doing this because I need to reseal the oil pan, and plan to instal a heads/cam combo as well. I was going to do head studs. Should I do crank and rods too? Or just reuse factory on those?