mark21742

Your rod bolts are the weakest link in the bottom end, you really have two good choices here...Katech bolts can be put right in, for the ARP bolts you are supposed to have your rods resized......I have gone both ways and never had a problem. With the Katechs in my stock block I hydro locked number 7 and threw it out the side of the block and pan.....the bolts were still tight and perfect, but the new shortblock stroker I picked up already had the ARP bolts in it so I gave the Katech bolts to a friend that is still running them in his motor.

SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

if your already going to be into it that deep i would hella spend the money on the arp rod and mains. it will make your stock bottom end just that much more reliable.

blackbird0230

Are the Arp head bolts reusable? or is it a one and done thing like the factory bolts

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

They are reusable

BadAndy

Wait a minute, who is selling head and main studs for less than$300? Maybe you meant just for head studs.

BadAndy

Also, we all know that studs are better than bolts. That has never been the question. We don't need any more posts about why studs are better.

BadAndy

Rod bolts are one thing because the oem ones are weak as ****, but do you even hear about people breaking mains in street applications?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

AGREED. BUT, there are still those (not I!) that say it's no better and not worth the cost.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

And those same folks probably use Fram oil filters too!

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

A Sponsor here!!


www.speed-eng.com!


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-12pt-...03-p-8043.html


http://speed-eng.com/store/arp-head-...s6-p-8048.html

KCS

iTrader: (20)

C5R heads are better than 243 heads, but is it really worth it if I were only shooting for 400whp? In many applications, main studs are not worth the cost. You can still make a lot of power with the OEM main bolts.

And I use Wix oil filters!

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I agree with that about main fasteners. It's head fastener installation that are so finicky. Heads or mains, I'd always be nervous torquing threaded fasteners into an aluminum casting with threads cut into it.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

#1 reason why I decided to go Studs. I would be just so sick to death if I twisted out a head thread on a brand new block . Head bolts have been used by many without any ill effects, but I want a higher percentage of success.

BadAndy

Look, IDK if we just have a failure to communicate here or what, but where I come from ~$250-260 for head studs and and $190 for main studs adds up to about $450.

Zedtransam

you can only get rods bolts

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I would think that in the 4 years since he posted, he probably figured that out...

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Zedtransam, welcome to LS1tech! It's about time you posted something!

StorminMatt

I know that this is an old thread. But I thought I should address this because it seems to be such a commonly believed misconception that studs should NEVER be used unless the head can be pulled clear from them. This is simply UNTRUE. Studs are no more an obstacle than bolts in a crowded engine bay, and may actually make things EASIER in some cases. What is often neglected is the fact that studs (like ARP) have Allen sockets on the top, and can be removed before the heads. They can then be reinstalled after the heads are placed on the block. This way, you need not worry about whether or not the head can clear the studs when it needs to be removed. Furthermore, without any bolt heads to worry about, studs can easily be removed even in situations where a bolt head would interfere with something like a brake booster when pulling the bolt out of the hole. Yes, there is the extra step of pulling the studs after loosening the nuts and installing them before tightening the nuts. But this is certainly no deal killer when it comes to using studs. Especially when you look at all the advantages of using studs vs bolts.