DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Not too much info out there on them so time for a new thread.

Are there any other options out there besides the offerings from ARE, Crane and Ultra Pro Machining and the C5R covers?

I plan on tapping into the fitting above the oil filter, would I need to run any type of inline restrictor?

Would it be a smart move to go with an oil retricted pushrod at this point seeing at the top end would be receiving extra oil?

There are plans for an oil cooler in addition to this. Obviously I would run one of the aftermarket adapter blocks, but would it still be okay to tap into oil supply for the spring oilers? I would need a tap for a temp gauge also.

Thanks for any input.

mark21742

What are your plans for the motor? Just curious as to why you would need this upgrade.

But I would say yes you would need a restrictor....if you look on eBay you can get the restrictor fittings for pretty cheap.

Also might want to look at upgrading your oil pump to a melling 10296 hi volume, high pressure pump.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Solid roller, and the car would be see track days. If the car was stricty street, or 1/4 mile I wouldnt even consider going this route. I would assume -4 AN line would be more than enough for this (maybe even -3). Pump is a worked over LS6 unit. I have thought about an aftermarket upgrade, but I'm on the fence about it.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

After more thought, I'd be hessitant to change the pump out of fear of running the pan dry.

mark21742

How about drilling hole and putting AN fitting in to run to a holding tank down beside the oil pan......sort of a wet/ dry sump hybrid with more oil holding capacity? Dry dumps are just too much money if your on a budget lol

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Ha, dry sumps are too much even if you have a budget. Right now I know that the stock LS1 pan will hold 7qts. The oil level is JUST below the windage try. Safe to say the level would drop more once the engine is running, and ofcourse more so at higher RPM. I just dont want to have excessive oil in the top end with the addition of this set up, also need to do some research on what restrictor I need.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Make sure you drill out the lifter trays on the piston side of the tray to allow the oil to flow back to the pan quicker.

mark21742

How about plumbing? I'd drill two holes in the top edge of the head casting (one tube for each pair of cylinders) and tap it (just under the valve cover). Then run a T fitting just inside the head. Run each tube from the first T up over the rocker pairs and T them just above the rockers with a short tube, maybe 1/8" with the tip just slightly crimped shut to give a good spray.

Look at a Mazda Protege block with the piston oil squirters and you will see what I mean.

You might also need a set of tall valve covers, then play with you oil weight and restrictor size.....I'm thinking run one restrictor per side

mark21742

I typed a book of a better post, but when I tried to submit it it said I timed out

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

http://drysump.com/valvcvr7.htm

I would be running something similar to those, so all the plumping would be external. Lifter trays are drilled, but If I swap the cam out soon, I'll be going to a link bar setup.

mark21742

Ok, the looks pretty easy, I would just like to see it run through the top edge of the head so you could remove the valve covers to adjust exactly where the spray is hitting