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Safe Block Deck Limits

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Old May 8, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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Default Safe Block Deck Limits

I have the opportunity to purchase a new factory LS6 block that was rejected because of a couple of scratches on the deck. I will need about .030" of deck material removed to fix the problem. Is that too much material to maintain a safe deck? Will there be necessary changes needed to the intake to insure proper sealing?

Also, what kind of cylinder bore prep is necessary on these new blocks? Are they typically ready to go? Of course, since this maybe an exception to the rule, I will definetly check. I was just wondering, in normal circumstances, do the blocks come delivered ready to assemble.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Can't give you a yes or a no, but that seems like a lot considering the pistons are already ~.007 out of the hole.

Last edited by DONAIMIAN; May 8, 2012 at 01:11 PM.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 05:30 PM
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Good point. I did consider that. My plan is actually use a shorter rod to make up the difference.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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Then you'll have a "one-off" setup that will be difficult to rebuild later should you need to. How about welding up the scarf marks and then milling back to stock or slightly under?
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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I've taken .018-.020" off a couple blocks as the mahle 383 pistons end up in the hole about .010" No problems with them, but as others said now those blocks are almost set up for the same mahle piston or a custom piston. I'd do a quick fill weld and light mill.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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you could use a piston for 6.125 rod with the stock length 6.098 rod to make up most of the distance, not a big deal IMO
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Old May 8, 2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Grr
you could use a piston for 6.125 rod with the stock length 6.098 rod to make up most of the distance, not a big deal IMO
The 6.098 rod uses a bigger press fit pin where the 6.125 rod uses the smaller traditional floating pin.
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Old May 9, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Then you'll have a "one-off" setup that will be difficult to rebuild later should you need to. How about welding up the scarf marks and then milling back to stock or slightly under?
I never considered the welding and milling. Good suggestion.

My idea was actually quite unorthydox. I am going to build a propane fuel specific 310 cubic inch motor for my 1998 S10 daily driver. Using the stock LS6 bore, I was going to install a 4.8 crank (3.27" stroke) and LS1/LS6 JE pop-ups. The key to the build was using a new set of 6.25" Eagle H-beam rods originally intended for Gen I SBC. Gen I SBC performance rods were/are easily modified for LS motors before LS specific performance rods were available. This was how I was going to make up the .030" deck removal. By using .025" shorter Gen I rods. But if I get the deck repaired, I can go ahead and use stock 4.8 rods (6.275") rods. Definetly something to think about.
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