Oil?
You will get a lot of unsubstantiated opinion based solely on marketing here.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
They have a section specifically for people to post the wear metal content of drained oil, as in actual measurement of how an oil is working in a particular engine.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php
They have a section specifically for people to post the wear metal content of drained oil, as in actual measurement of how an oil is working in a particular engine.
stock engine?id say what gm calls for mobil 1 but if you wana pay for that stuff its your choice theres better oil for less money,i run brad penn 20w50 racing oil of course i have a 383 also.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Mcallen
I agree i am also using same oil here, weather temp is like 105 summer and maybe 40s in winter.
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Its a stock bottom end with 50,000 miles prc2.5 ls6 heads, P and P oil, pump ms3 cam. Basically everything but a built bottom end. Iv also heard brad penn oil is good. Reason for asking is since reading alot about most companies oil not being so "synthetic" anymore im trying to decide which route to take.
Like I said go to the link I provided and see what others are seeing for wear metal content in used oil. We have a test for used oil but so very few seem to care atall about it. They prefer to base decisions on marketing like those who "believe" in M1 because M1 struck a deal with GM.
The LT1 Vette was the first vehicle to get the M1 oil fill cap and the actual results were consistently high iron wear.
The LT1 Vette was the first vehicle to get the M1 oil fill cap and the actual results were consistently high iron wear.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ny
i always use a blend in everything. synthetic oil i feel makes somethings wear faster and some things not at all. like i pulled apart a ls1 apart with 35k on it that had RP its whole life and it still had cross hairs on the cylinder walls. which isnt ness. bad but it literally never even broke-in
i always use a blend in everything. synthetic oil i feel makes somethings wear faster and some things not at all. like i pulled apart a ls1 apart with 35k on it that had RP its whole life and it still had cross hairs on the cylinder walls. which isnt ness. bad but it literally never even broke-in
Seems you are stuck in the 70s or something, an LT1 fed bulk dino by the police department with 200K still has crosshatch.
I'm a member over at the corvette forum. Here's a sticky with lots of good info on different oils. It's for flat tapped cams, but there is great info that will show you what oil will provide less wear on engine parts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ppet-oils.html
If you want added protection, go with Mobil 1 15W-50 or Castrol Edge 5W-50. These are made with a higher Zinc and phosphorus contant, which offers more protection for parts. I know these are roller engines, "they don't need it" blah, blah, blah, but the extra protection is always great for any engine. I use synthetic because I do notice a difference between it and conventional oil, and also because I like my engine to be nice and clean during a tear down. I myself, am running Royal Purple and my engine just hit 199,XXX miles on my '00 Z28. Brad Penn is suppose to be really good oil.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ppet-oils.html
If you want added protection, go with Mobil 1 15W-50 or Castrol Edge 5W-50. These are made with a higher Zinc and phosphorus contant, which offers more protection for parts. I know these are roller engines, "they don't need it" blah, blah, blah, but the extra protection is always great for any engine. I use synthetic because I do notice a difference between it and conventional oil, and also because I like my engine to be nice and clean during a tear down. I myself, am running Royal Purple and my engine just hit 199,XXX miles on my '00 Z28. Brad Penn is suppose to be really good oil.
