Doing a cam install yourself
Doing a cam install yourself In your opinion guys how difficult is it to install a cam yourself on a 00 camaro? Don't really wanna give a shop a grand to install it for me.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 25
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It's not that it is hard but it is time consuming. I did mine a couple of months ago and it was the first time I have ever torn into a motor. It took me about two and a half days to do the cam, timing chain, and new valve springs. Def. worth the it to save the money.
Yea I've been looking on ls1how to just wanted some other people's thoughts and opinions. I would love to keep my $1000 bucks lol. When y'all installed yours did y'all actually degree the cam?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 61
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Not hard at all. I did mine in about a week and a half and that was the first time I ever tore into a motor too. I followed ls1howto step by step walked me right through it, cranked on the first try too. I did it on a corvette and I heard its a little easier on an f-body but I can say for sure.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Not hard at all. I did mine in about a week and a half and that was the first time I ever tore into a motor too. I followed ls1howto step by step walked me right through it, cranked on the first try too. I did it on a corvette and I heard its a little easier on an f-body but I can say for sure.
I've never done anything like a cam swap before, but I just followed JimX's writeup in ls1howto.com and it worked out great. The hardest parts for me was wrestling the radiator out and having to scramble at the last minute to locate 16 pen magnets when I couldn't get my store-bought lifter hold-up rod to go in on one side. Later I found-out that I should have just used wooden dowels.
The key is to take your time and don't get ahead of yourself. If your head is in the right place it's a very doable install, even for the novice like myself.
The ls1tech how to helps a bunch but in all cam aint bad at all watch what u do and little things do matter read cam how to a few times and have everything u need when u start last one i did took me and a buddy 8 hours bright side its a simple pushrod motor
I had SNL Performance install my cam (near Ft. Worth), they are way cheaper than $1,000. They have a great tuner too. Almost everyone that works there drives GTOs. Might be worth your while to check around for a good shop that is more reasonably priced. Seriously, if you have to ask on the forum about whether you should install it yourself... well...
I had SNL Performance install my cam (near Ft. Worth), they are way cheaper than $1,000. They have a great tuner too. Almost everyone that works there drives GTOs. Might be worth your while to check around for a good shop that is more reasonably priced. Seriously, if you have to ask on the forum about whether you should install it yourself... well...
yes you can do it yourself. dont let anyone tell you that you cant. all you need some basic tools and directions. a monkey could do a cam install.
one tip i can add is dont buy the lifter holding tool just go to home depot and get some steel rods to hold your lifters so you dont drop any. thats what i used. make sure you line the timing marks up correctly. as long as you do that and your ptv is good you are fine.
one tip i can add is dont buy the lifter holding tool just go to home depot and get some steel rods to hold your lifters so you dont drop any. thats what i used. make sure you line the timing marks up correctly. as long as you do that and your ptv is good you are fine.
Ok well thanks guys Im gonna take a crack at it......everything seems straight forward enough but I have a question on one step....on ls1howto.com....once the plugs are removed and Im trying to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder what are a few ways you guys recommend? I saw the the air compressor method and was wondering does it really work? Also I guess the top dead center method I didn't comprehend all that well. Thanks
Ok well thanks guys Im gonna take a crack at it......everything seems straight forward enough but I have a question on one step....on ls1howto.com....once the plugs are removed and Im trying to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder what are a few ways you guys recommend? I saw the the air compressor method and was wondering does it really work? Also I guess the top dead center method I didn't comprehend all that well. Thanks
with an air compressor you get an air fitting with quick connect that will fit the spark plug hole. then connect the air line. the air pressure will keep the valve from falling. make sure the car is in neutral though because it will also force the piston down. lol
with the tdc method just rotate the crank until you get that piston to top dead center(the very top). stick a screw driver or a wire in the spark plug hole to verify it is at the top. that way it will keep the valve from falling out. then take your spring off with your tool.
It's not hard, just time consuming, but still take your time to avoid making any mistakes.
Actually the only thing that is actually physically hard is breaking loose the crank bolt.
I'd get a cheap shop vac with a wet/dry filter, 8mm & 10mm sockets 3/8" drive sockets and several extensions 2"- 6", 24mm 1/2" and short extension, 1/2" drive long breaker-bar and ratchet drive socket various lengths of extensions, channel lock pliers, extendable high strength magnet, 10mm flex head ratchet wrench, crank pulley install tool, valve spring tool (for 2 at a time), small tube of thread sealant, blue loc-tite, cam assembly lube, TQ wrenches to cover the 4lb-35lb range and one for 240-250 range. I'd also make sure you know all the TQ specs and any special tightening sequences.
Well I know I forgot a number of things, but this is what I remember right off the top of my head.
Actually the only thing that is actually physically hard is breaking loose the crank bolt.
I'd get a cheap shop vac with a wet/dry filter, 8mm & 10mm sockets 3/8" drive sockets and several extensions 2"- 6", 24mm 1/2" and short extension, 1/2" drive long breaker-bar and ratchet drive socket various lengths of extensions, channel lock pliers, extendable high strength magnet, 10mm flex head ratchet wrench, crank pulley install tool, valve spring tool (for 2 at a time), small tube of thread sealant, blue loc-tite, cam assembly lube, TQ wrenches to cover the 4lb-35lb range and one for 240-250 range. I'd also make sure you know all the TQ specs and any special tightening sequences.
Well I know I forgot a number of things, but this is what I remember right off the top of my head.