I got my cam in and everything. Torqued all the rockers down to 22 ft lbs with about 1.5 turns on each one. NOW my problem is the u/d pulley. It was HARD to go on. I don't remember it ever being this hard. I mean the first half way of getting it on wasn't to bad, but now I'm using a 3 foot cheater pipe and putting full force on it and still haven't got it seated all the way. Wich brings me to my next question on how to know how far back to go. I put the belt on to see how much further it needs to go, but it's pretty tuff to see.

 

if you're using a 3 ft breaker bar and it's tight with that, i would think it should be seated......i tightened mine until the belts were lined up close, it might have been out just a little but i've had no problems....you're probably good

 

there is a spec for the distance between the face of the crank and the hub of the balancer. i believe it around 1/8". that is referring to the lip where the balancer bolt is. another way to double check is to throw the belts on and bump it over. if they track true your probably ok

 

Do you know of anyway for sure where I can find the spec from the face of the crank to the hub of the balancer?

 

anybody?

 

Here you go!

 

Thanks a ton 99bluz28! But my math is HORIBLE LOL. How would I convert this if all I have is a ruler with fractions?

 

you can get a cheap caliper for $20.

 

I knw .125 is 1/8" so if its a liitle over 1/8 i'll prob call it good

 

I had the same difficulty with one of the first March pulleys. It was so tight, that even with the install tool, a wheel bearing, several grade 8 washers, & a three-foot breaker bar, I would bend the washers.
After removing & reinstalling several times, it now goes on like hot butter.

 

If I have to take it off I'm going to heat it up before putting it back on. Either that or I'm going to get a new bolt and than heat it up with a torch while its on there. I'm trying to remember where you can get those little handheld torches. Does anybody know?

 

Do you have the balancer install tool? You typically do not need to heat up the balancer while using the installer tool.

Even using a piece of threaded rod and nuts, you won't need to heat up the balancer.

I used this one from Robbie (97ramsst):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-BALANCER...-/150866579409

Pulled the balancer on in less than 2 minutes.

 

I got a small torch and copper fittings set for $20 at home depot when I was working on my water heater.

 

Lol my experience was a lot less painful than yours.. heated pulley to 200 degrees used gloves to put it on almost seated right then. Used old balance bolt 255 ft lbs with huge *** Snap On torque wrench and that seats it... Then use new balancer bolt 37 ft lbs then an additional 140 degrees. That'll get it done ... Like mentioned handheld torch home depot makes life easy..

 

Yea im getn a new bolt and a little hand torch monday

 

IMO, I'd put it in the oven and heat it to 200 degrees if you're going to heat it. That way it's heated evenly and at a controlled temperature; I wouldn't use a torch.

 

Used the torch and a laser temp gun and if your smart you will just heat the middle in a circular fashion to distribute heat in your 3inch diameter where it needs it. I don't wanna bake my damn pulley lol and were talking about a handheld propane torch. Both methods work I have done my method 6 times now same asp udp.

 

Hand torch also runs the possibility of burning the front cover seal

 

The thing that scares me is when pulling it on with my longer crank bolt to start i got it pulled on a little bit and a few of the threads were stripped on that bolt so i thought i was fucked and the crank threads were stripped... But than i put my stock bolt in and it threaded in fine and pulled it the rest of the way on. I wonder if the longer bolt from ws6store is made of cheaper material so it messed up the threads of the bolt and not the threads n my crank.

 

Thats why you put a thin strip of wet towel right around the shaft in front of the seal