#01-06-01-027: SMU - Cylinder Head Installation and Cylinder Head Replacement Procedure - (Nov 14, 2001)
Subject: Revised Cylinder Head Installation and Cylinder Head Replacement Procedures

Models: 1997–2002 Chevrolet Corvette
1998–2002 Chevrolet Camaro
1998–2002 Pontiac Firebird
1999–2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models
2000–2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade
with 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, G, S, U, N– RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LS1, LS6, LQ4, LQ9)

This bulletin is being issued to revise the Cylinder Head Installation and Cylinder Head Replacement Procedures within the Engine Unit Repair and Engine Mechanical sub-sections of the Service Manuals. Earlier service information allowed reuse of the M8 cylinder head bolts. The revised service information requires replacement of the M8 cylinder head bolts.

The information has been updated within SI2000. If you are using a paper version of the Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected pages.


GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.


the red would be my guess why they aren't included. they are not in the business to make all in one kits. its the job of the tech to make sure he is following the proper procedures and using the correct parts needed. the guy at the parts counter should also know too. they often see the TSB when a part like this is looked up

 

was it an inboard bolt or one of the outer ones?....honestly I don't think one of the inner small bolts would have much effect on combustion sealing........if any at all......if your going n/a, I wouldn't sweat it, but if your gonna boost it . I guess that lil 22lb bolt might make a difference......anybody else have any thoughts on this......I had the same happen on #13.....but I'm sending it anyway

That would be the one on the right with the sheetmetal intake...5.3 with 4.8 slugs 64cc heads 2.02\"/1.57" valves and asa cam and springs , the one in the car is just a 2001 lm7 with 220 cam and matching springs ,stock 862 heads and this thing flies with a th350 and 3000 stall, the last is a lq4 punched to 370" with ls2 flat tops and gen 4 rods with 64cc ls3 style heads an asa cam and springs, still gotta order the throttle body elbow adapter and fuel rails.....then i will complete the assembly

 

I'm not sure those bolts hold enough torque to matter if one is missing.

 

My thoughts exactly !!!

 

On my torque wrench I have to be super careful at that low of torque, it barely clicks at all so sometimes it's easy to go right past the click. Every once in a while I practice real low torque by clamping an extension in the vice and hitting that low number and feeling the click before I do a low torque bolt. Sometimes it takes me a few feels to even feel the click. Click wrenches suck when it comes to low tq numbers.

Point is, if your tq wrench is anything like mine you may have accidentally blew past the click....?

 

If you have an inch pound wrench you can get close. Mine stops at the equivalent of 21 foot lbs. I take to that and then do 5 degrees on the degree gauge.

 

How did that work out for you? I have the same situation except with #11. All other bolts torqued beautifully but 11 broke off at around 19 ft pounds. I have the cheapo torque wrench with the needle. I also have a click type but I don't trust myself at those low pound ratings.

I really don't want to take the head off and have to get new bolts and a gasket. Even if I did that I'm not sure if I could get the bolt out!

 

Im pretty sure all the newer LT and Direct injected engine dont even have those bolts at all, I would try and get it out but if not I wouldn't worry about it personally.

 

Get a reverse drill bit, stick it in there and start drilling it will reverse right out if it isn't cross threaded