Ok guys here so here is my problem I have a 01 camaro z28 a4 104000 miles on it and I have noticed a tick coming from the top end on the passenger side close to the front of the head. I have went to many people including machanics and have even sthascoped it out and have come to the thought that it is a bad litter. I am going to run sea foam throught the oil the Chang it and the add marvel mystery oil in it and see what happens the thing that I'm need help with is I want to do a h/c swap but still have the factory 10 bolt rearend I talked to Texas speed and the digested that I go with the prc 227 heads and the ms4 cam I'm a little steady that if do h/c swap that I might break the rear gears because of the HP and torque I will make but I WON'T BE RACING IT RIGHT NOW SO NO TRYING TO GET IT TO HOOK also this is my d right now so need to some advice should I do the h/c swap first and then the rear cause I'm not racing it till next year or do the rear first really want to do the h/c swap firat cause I don't want yo hurt the motor at all any help would be greatly appreciated guy thanks

 

If you don't plan on taking the car to the track and putting a sticky tire on it I don't see a problem with doing the H/C before the rear. The car would spin on the street before breaking the rear in my opinion.

 

Agreed with above.

If you're going to replace the heads anyway, you can just do lifters while you're in there.

If you're not going to replace the heads soon, pull the valve cover, remove the suspected rocker(s) and push rod(s) and spray some b12 chemtool cleaner through the lifter while it's still down there. That will hopefully do the trick.

 

Run regular rest street tires and your rear should hold up for a while....drag radials or slicks will help you hook and break the stock rear quick

 

Start your h/c swap ASAP, don't drive on a ticking engine.

I did and wound up breaking a rocker and bent that pushrod! Don't worry about your rear end, your an automatic.

 

ok thanks so much guys is there anything that i need to do before i do the h/cswap like anything in the drive live line stall and cooler that wont allow the car to run wirth a dang

 

Well, you need gears and a stall for sure IMO with such a big cam.

I agree an auto is more forgiving for the rear end and if you dont do digs, youll be ok for a while. For exemple, I broke 4 rear end in 7 years with H/C, one time was at the track with agressive clutch dump. I'm manual and broke 2 rear since I have nitrous though.

Good luck

 

yea man.. youll be fine.

I had a tick in my motor and it turned out i bent 4 valves when it over revved.. If u hammer it after the install and get wheel hope, let off otherwise that will break the rear. I was cutting low 1.5 60's on my 10 bolt before I stepped up to a MWC 9".

 

What about the oil cooler for the stall was thinking at a yank ss i think it is set at 4000

 

Yes, you will need a "trans" cooler if you go with a converter. And you will he happy with a 4000 stall.

 

so if i do the h/c and stall and cooler i can still drive it with the stock rear and rear gears it just wont have its full potential like i just want to do the h/c swap as quick as possible to make sure i dont hurt my engine cause im 21 and this car is like a child to me!!!!! also i still have the stock exhaust on the car was going to swap this out befoe the lifter went bad and so with the h/c stall and cooler swap would it hurt anything to have the stock exhaut on for a little bit until i get the money to do it

 

You need headers and exhaust regardless. Heads and a cam such stage ms4 will pointless without good exhaust and good sized stall

 

I would look at some of TSP's smaller cams for a street car. This would be a better STREET cam than the MS4. http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1154-te...-camshaft.aspx
Get it on a 111lsa and it should work real well.

 

i have talked to texeas speed and researched like hell a bunch of differnt set ups for almost 5 months now and through long talks this is what we have decided on. i plan on also haveing alot of track time with the car and i probably wont be my dd after a year or so i wan ta truck or something. the problem i have is that right now it is my dd and has a bad lifter in it but and i plan on doing the head and cam swap asap. but with that set up more air is going to flow in the engine and the stock exhaust is going to be restrictive on the power but if i hurt the engine because the lifter problem then need a new one then a exhast aint going to matter on a blown engine or whatever. thus the question would it be safe to run that head an cam with a stock ehaust for only a little while.

 

check for exhaust leaks or a bad rocker trunnion bearing.do a comp trunnion bearing up grade.get new lifters when doing the head swap.it would be ok to run it with the stock exhaust ,but you will need to retune it when you do put a better flowing exhaust on it.

 

Sounds more like its coming from the block

 

May I just say even it it were a lifter do you feel confident putting a nasty heads/cam setup like that on a 104,000 mile motor without a rebuild and expect it to last for a while? With that kind of mileage doing a h/c swap is going to put that engine on borrowed time for sure. It may hold up for 30k or 30 miles before you wrap a bearing or stretch rod bolts. If you really need this car to hold up for a while and your on a tight budget I would at least recommend freshing up your bottom end with new bearings/rings/and a set of katech or arp rod bolts. I did tfs 220s and a tqr v2 on my 88k ls1 it lasted 3300 miles @352 RWHP (mustang dyn).At the time I had belief in the stock ls1 bottom end being nearly unbreakable to an N/a setup. I found out the hard way.

 

I'll have it rebuild before then going to stroke it to a 383

 

ohand by the way if you look and search there are litteraly tons of guy that run big cans and or nos or prochargers with stock bottom ends and texas speed has the fastest na stock bottom end car with a ms3 2.5 5.3 heads and fast 90 i have looked all day and found people adding powerful setups on there 100000 and up bottom ends and be fine but thanks for the advice but going to 383 it really really soon after after i get the bottom end

 

Oh I am fully aware of Texas speeds stock btm end car as well as many others out there that can pull it off, but if you look at the spun bearing thread on here, see the pics and read the storys you will feel completely different about a garbage stock connecting rods and pistons thats in these motors . If you feel perfectly fine basing some sense of reliability and longevity because it worked for someone else that's fine. But when there's a hole in the side of that block and or oil pan is when you really wish you would have took the time to build it right. Just remember the cheapest forged rods and pistons are still much better than factory. That 383 forged assembly is a far better idea than throwing that combo on a worn out engine. Good luck.