Rod Bolts
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Rod Bolts
Hi All
New guy here
I bought a '99 LS1 5.7 long block that has 70,000 miles on it. It was pulled from the car because it lost oil pressure. When I went to pick it up the previous owner had pulled 1 main bearing cap and 1 rod cap to check the bearings. They were fine.
My question is, can I just re torque the rod bolts and be good to go?
If not, is it possible to change the bolts without pulling the pistons?
Thanks in advance
Greg
New guy here
I bought a '99 LS1 5.7 long block that has 70,000 miles on it. It was pulled from the car because it lost oil pressure. When I went to pick it up the previous owner had pulled 1 main bearing cap and 1 rod cap to check the bearings. They were fine.
My question is, can I just re torque the rod bolts and be good to go?
If not, is it possible to change the bolts without pulling the pistons?
Thanks in advance
Greg
#2
you can change the rod bolts while leaving the rod and piston in the block.just do 1 rod bolt at a time.get some kaltech rod bolts ,these seem to be the only rod bolt that dose not cause any out of round with the big end of the connecting rod.these are cracked rods and it seems that removing a rod cap is not a good idea.
#3
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Im thinking the stock rod bolts can be reused but don't quote me on that. And yes its possible to install new rod botls. You just have to be carefull not to let this piston fall out as you change the bolts out.
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Rod bolts can be reused. They are not torque to yield. However, it probably would be advisable to at least upgrade to newer GM bolts.
GM disassembled thousands of these engines under warranty to solve the oil consumption issue by pulling the pistons, replacing the oil ring, and reassembling them. You can upgrade the rod bolts if you wish. Why one aftermarket rod bolt would cause a deformation of the rod end and another would not is a mystery.
The question remains though, what caused the low oil pressure?
GM disassembled thousands of these engines under warranty to solve the oil consumption issue by pulling the pistons, replacing the oil ring, and reassembling them. You can upgrade the rod bolts if you wish. Why one aftermarket rod bolt would cause a deformation of the rod end and another would not is a mystery.
The question remains though, what caused the low oil pressure?
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Thanks for the input.
I'm hoping that when I pull the oil pump I will find an obvious failed O ring or stuck bypass valve that is supposedly a problem with some stock oil pumps.
I will replace the oil pump regardless of what I find.
Greg
I'm hoping that when I pull the oil pump I will find an obvious failed O ring or stuck bypass valve that is supposedly a problem with some stock oil pumps.
I will replace the oil pump regardless of what I find.
Greg
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I'm probably not seeing the obvious but unless the bolts have a amount of stretch at a certain torque wouldn't it be more likely that you would recreate an accurate cap position with the original bolts rather than changing the bolts and possibly having them not position the cap in the same relationship to the rod.
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If this engine had an oil pressure issue and You have the engine not in any vehicle , now is the time to check all the bearings and/or replace them ,,,,,,chances are there are a bad 1 or 2 in any of the locations .
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What difference would it make if using ARP vs. stock or katech? On a basic level a grade 8 bolt is a grade 8 bolt, right?or whatever grade is used for rod bolts. We are not talking about torquing to yield so there should not be any measurable amount of stretch. The torque spec is the same isn't it? If you warped the bore wouldn't they be over torqued? So why would the rods need to be resized to change to higher quality bolts??
Yea sure if we are doing a textbook rebuild yes we SHOULD resize the rods. He is wanting to only change the bolts.
Please elaborate with some facts.
Thanks