bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Care to prove that?

Care to explain how after installing stronger bolts, many people including myself had big ends go up to .003 o-O-r?

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Not to be a dick but who are you talking to? What do you want proven?

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

That cracked caps will not move...obviously they do move or you wouldn't have out of round issues.

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Never said they wouldn't move or go OOR, just that they are designed to fit back together exactly like the factory sends them out. Rod #1 must have rod end #1 bolted back to it in the right direction. Grab 2 cookies and break them both in half. Then put them back together. Same thing with factory cracked rods. Read this. and this

The crack method used at the factory to separate the rod from the end creates a unique pattern on both sides of the break. So they'll match back together one way and only one way. Damage caused by anything else is just that, damage.

I don't see how changing bolts would affect it either. They are separate pieces and rod bolts are just fasteners. Fasteners shouldn't mess with what they are fastening unless the parts are warped or torque is off.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

It's not that simple. Just because it is a cracked cap design, does not mean it has no room to shift in any direction.

Different fasteners with different clamp loads, tensile strength...etc will move the caps, regardless of design. Caps don't just go out of round for the hell of it, obviously movement on the parting line is the only thing that can cause that.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

In My experience getting the rod caps back to the exact same way as before removed is fairly easy as long as You don't have any foreign material and You don't ding any part of the rod or cap and You use You're eyes to inspect them before and after . If You don't have natural mechanics and physics aptitude and decent eyes I would not mess with it ,,,,,but if You do and You're careful You should have no issues .

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

So your saying a calibrated eye is enough to see if your rod cap is shifted .001 from where it was to begin with?


Ok...

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

The fact is that that would be true if all bolts had the same "clamping force" if you will and tensile strength. Also you should not the arp torque specs are different than the standard gm bolts and the bolts also yield a higher clamping force. Therefore they have the potential to warp the bore and cause a failure. The katechs are not prone to stretch like the stockers are but still have the same "clamp force" therefore they will maintain the bore shape. As for how they maintain the clamp force of stock bolt but ont stretch I dont know as thats katechs secret but they do work.

There is no failures from using katech bolts while there are many failures shortly after installing arps. Now there are people who use arps without issue but is that chance worth the $100 price difference between katechs and arps? To me its not...

KCS

iTrader: (20)

That's what I'm talking about too.

ZQ8LS1

iTrader: (3)

I rebuilt my L33 with cracked capped rods & used ARP rod bolts & no resizing...5,000 + miles later its still running strong & I doubt I will have any problems if its gone this long.

The caps can only go one way. I was a amazed at the cracks/breaks on some of my rods.

GST

Thanks for the welcome.
My plan is to put it in my sons 67 Camaro. It will be all stock at this point and a summer daily driver. I'm hoping to give it a good once over and run it. We'll get the combo instaIled and decide where to go from there. I was going to change the oil pump and check the old one to (hopefully) find the failure.

GST

Not a bad idea
It's on my engine stand so I can easily check all of the bearings.
Greg

GST

Just noticed the pics in your sig. Nice Monte
I had a 1970 SS454 Monte Carlo. It wasn't 600 hp (only 500) but it was still like using a sledge hammer to install trim.
Greg

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Cool! What colors?

About your engine, I suggest while you have it on the stand, you do go through it. New rings, bearings, oil pump, gaskets, perhaps have the heads gone through and a cam/springs kit. Remember some fasteners are TTY and the head bolt holes need to the empty & dry.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

Bww , in My experience thus developing My opinion the stronger bolts cause out of round big ends by way of squishing the caps a little more but the parting lines because of the cracked cap design stay the same on 2 of the 3 dimensions ,,,,,,,with respect to the engine block side to side and front to back . The purpose of the honing is to bring the big ends to round again .
I fabricated some tools to hone My rods so I spent alot of time studying closely the parting lines and I can say in all honesty I can see a .001-.002" difference because I'm comparing the rod to the cap when They are together . Take a drill bit then find 1 that is a cpl thous bigger or smaller and compare side by side ,,,,,,,,,You should be able to "easily" see the difference ,,,,,,,,,

imma_stocker

iTrader: (19)

Ah I think I see what you're getting at. Rod manufacturing has little to do with what happens to the rod, cap, and bearing. They all work the same but can take more "abuse" depending on how its made, what its made of, shape, weight, etc. So the rods being cracked has nothing to do with how it went OOR. Sure the cracks "should" help the cap and rod section stay in place but real life happens so they won't necessarily.

Gotta keep in mind though that improper torque, wrong torque down pattern, fasteners of much harder metal, fasteners of much softer metal, bearing clearances, and crank wobble can all throw it OOR. Some take forever and others don't, depends on what happened inside the motor when it was running.

Hell, I bought a motor with 6 of 8 rods bent with a slight S bend (don't hit nitrous without any jets ). It was enough to knock like hell and go very slightly OOR but the bearings looked fine to the naked eye. The rods looked fine until a close look too.


OP: you're on the right track. While the engine is on a stand you might as well go through the whole thing. Car will be killer when you're done with it. Throw some disc brakes and decent suspension on for a panty dropping resto-mod!

GST

I painted mine Ice Blue Metallic. No vinyl top. Very cool car.

I plan on checking all of the rod and main bearings and depending on what I find I will do rings, bearings etc.
I'm definitely doing oil pump and gaskets.
At this point I'm hoping to keep it low budget.
I have a feeling that once I get into it I'll know how far I'll have to go

john563

iTrader: (17)

this is^ I whent this route with katechs one rod bolt at a time..that was bout 4-5 years ago..H/C/I nitrous..i use clevite bearings p series