greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

just hit 126 miles on the build, some tranny fluid was leaking out so i had to fix that, the level was a good inch over the full area but now its about 1/4 over so i guess its fine now.
I've only gone 3/4 throttle but it gets up to speed pretty good for having a stall!
Seat of the pants wise, we had errands to do today and just driving around on the highway and in town felt the same as it did when it was all bolt ons with a messed up lifter/cam. so pretty damn good for a baseline tune

i figure i'll be able to gun it tomorrow now that theres 126 miles on it and see how it does on the baseline tune


i really need to figure out my static CR, i think i'm around the 10.8:1 11.0:1 area..

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

are you from Dayton Texas?

Snkebait95

iTrader: (16)

no, Ohio unfortunatly haha

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Answer these and I'll figure it out for you.

Bore-
Stroke-
Rod length-
Chamber Volume-
Piston Volume-
Head Gasket Thickness-

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

finished!

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

If you zero decked your motor upon assembly, it would be 10.57:1 static and 8.02:1 dynamic.

If you left it like a 6.0 is stock which is -.006 - .-008 it would be 10.72-10.78:1 static or 8.14-8.18:1 dynamic.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

yeah it wasn't zero decked, that's badass. I wonder how much I can mill the heads on there with my -4cc pistons

1nasty86

iTrader: (63)

i used that 231/238 on a 112 lsa with GREAT results.... good cam and lobe choice

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I personally would take them down to 59cc.

This would net you 11.46:1 static compression and 8.67:1 dynamic. This would make for a very nice bump in compression that would be pump gas friendly.

You said you have -4cc valve reliefs correct? If so you should have adequate ptv clearance, but I would still measure before and after.

greenvortec97

iTrader: (1)

yeah -4cc reliefs, 11.46 static sounds nice, going to be a while though, i need to start saving again, i think the next part on my list was a 275-300 spring rate coil up front with a matching shock, just removing the swaybar in the front dropped me from 1.9 to a 1.8 on bald nitto's

i think the problem is that my front end drops back down too quick and it unloads the rear tires, kind of the same scenario i had with my truck until i used cal tracs. but i figure with a car you want it to lunge forward and NOT squat correct?

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

You want the rear end to separate. You'll want the body of the car to push upwards away from the top of the tire and push the tire itself down into the track planting it.

You'll need an adjustable shock to control how quickly the suspension separates and plants the rear tires. Think of an adjustable shock as a progressive for the rear suspension separation. It just controls how quickly the separation accelerates into planting the tire into the ground.

Too violently can blow the tires off or send the car in a wheel stand if it's transferring weight properly.

You'll also want the front end to do the same. Separate from the tire and transfer weight to the rear tires in the same style as the rear does, progressively. Do it too quickly and it will either top out too fast and hit the limit of the travel the shocks have and unload the rear when it tops out and begins to travel back down, or it goes into a wheel stand.

Finding the right adjustment for the track conditions and your power management you have in the tune-up at the time will determine how it leaves the starting line each and every time. Goes for a 6 second Outlaw Drag Radial car all the way down to a 10 second street car.