Joe Gibbs LS30 oil
#63
Launching!
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Polyalphaolefin, I'm currently running AMSOIL 5W30 Signature Series, how would you compare this to the Driven oil? Would it be a good switch? This is the first time ive heard of the Driven oils. My car is a stock bottom end, 35k mile LS1 with heads cam and intake. Just a street car with plans for autox and roadracing in the future. Thanks!
#64
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Polyalphaolefin, I'm currently running AMSOIL 5W30 Signature Series, how would you compare this to the Driven oil? Would it be a good switch? This is the first time ive heard of the Driven oils. My car is a stock bottom end, 35k mile LS1 with heads cam and intake. Just a street car with plans for autox and roadracing in the future. Thanks!
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
Last edited by Kawboom; 11-08-2019 at 10:38 AM.
#65
TECH Senior Member
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You are probably massively overdoing it on oil protection. A heads, cam, and intake engine will probably drive 300K miles no problem with any oil. If you run AMSOIL or Driven, you probably only need one oil change per year.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
#66
Launching!
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You are probably massively overdoing it on oil protection. A heads, cam, and intake engine will probably drive 300K miles no problem with any oil. If you run AMSOIL or Driven, you probably only need one oil change per year.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
#67
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Yes, that is clearly the correct interpretation of what I wrote. Now reach up, grab your ears, pull your head out of your ***, and stop worrying about the difference in wear rates between Amsoil and Driven.
#68
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You are probably massively overdoing it on oil protection. A heads, cam, and intake engine will probably drive 300K miles no problem with any oil. If you run AMSOIL or Driven, you probably only need one oil change per year.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
Really guys, this isnt that hard. AMSOIL is great. Driven Oils are great. BUT oil will only protect an engine from wear and damage if the engine has the right combination of parts and assembly in the first place. If your engine has good oil pressure, you're probably fine. In street engines with a hydraulic cam, proper valvetrain alignment with street valve springs, good bearing clearances, and all the rest you don't have to worry about getting the last little bit of wear protection out of your oil. Oil is basically the last line of defense, and none of it is magic. Oiling related damage (on properly assembled engines) happens because of oil starvation, not because the oil measured 90,000 psi of film strength instead of 100,000 psi.
Companies like Mobil 1, Castrol, and Pennzoil have very different specs to meet compared to the boutique oils. Their formulators are given a budget (usually low as possible) with a strict set of API standards to meet. They are limited in the use of anti-wear, friction modifiers, and EP additives as most of them are restricted by API / ILSAC, either directly with phosphorus limitations or indirectly with sulfated ash limits. The boutique oils like Amsoil, Driven, Red Line, and so on... they don't care about these restrictions and budgets. They are given an application and formulate the most badass oil they can for that application with no expense spared. Just the type of ZDDP used in Driven LS30 is more expensive than Mobil 1's entire Infenium additive package.