I have never ever, rode in a cammed car ever. My first and only cam was an old cam. 230/227 591/571 112. I ran that with a 3200 stall. That setup was a fun setup. Was very tame. If i were to do it all over again, i would definitely go no smaller than a 3800 stall for sure!! And no smaller than a 228/228. But if you think you should step up to a bit more cam than you should. I also think that you will be better off with a 3800 stall, and the TSP Torquer 2. I think that the torquer 2 232/234 would be the biggest i would run on a daily driver.

 

As far as I know the biggest impact LSA has unless you go super radical is sound. I still have plenty of low power, and can pass anyone I need to in 5th gear on the highway, and it's just crazy up top. But I have an M6, I'm not sure how an automatic would take it passing on the highway.

 

OK, so I'm new... thought I was pretty Mechanically literate... but what is stall??? Thinking of a cam so I would love to know. My ride is 6 spd. is stall something to do with Automatics?

 

Just like manual transmission cars, cars with automatic transmissions need a way to let the engine turn while the wheels and gears in the transmission come to a stop. Manual transmission cars use a clutch, which completely disconnects the engine from the transmission. Automatic transmission cars use a torque converter.

A torque converter is a type of fluid coupling, which allows the engine to spin somewhat independently of the transmission. If the engine is turning slowly, such as when the car is idling at a stoplight, the amount of torque passed through the torque converter is very small, so keeping the car still requires only a light pressure on the brake pedal.

If you were to step on the gas pedal while the car is stopped, you would have to press harder on the brake to keep the car from moving. This is because when you step on the gas, the engine speeds up and pumps more fluid into the torque converter, causing more torque to be transmitted to the wheels.

 

The stall number on a torque converter basically adjusts the engine RPM at which full torque is applied.

 

Sure if you wanna make it simple lol

 

! have the 228r, and i love it. TSP will hook you up

check out this video

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...lts-video.html

 

With a lower LSA it'll increases max torque, an moves the torque to a lower RPM rpm range, and increase the DCR, and your hp will peak at a lower rpm.

IMO with a A4 that has a high stall TC and shorter rear gears I'd probably go with a 113-114lsa with a 228/228, and a 112-114lsa with a 232/234. I just see a M6 trans being able to benefit more from a lower/tighter lsa than a high stall TC A4 equipped car.

 

I could also do something custom.

The best thing to do would be to call me at the shop as that will get you the most direct line of communication and we can go from there with your wants.

Don't be afraid to call!

 

The guys at Tick can set you up with a really good cam without a doubt. Tsp has some really good shelf cams that are ready to ship, 224r, 228r, or even the more agressive torquer V2.
You say it will be your DD until you get a beater (get a 95-97 4cyl tacoma for a beater) and you intend to put heads on it. I have seen the 224r, 228r and many other "small" cams put down good numbers..cam only and H/C alike.. However, assuming your looking for maximum power after you slap on your heads, you should go ahead and go with a larger cam such as a Torquer V2 (slightly larger than 228) or the V3. There are plenty of 23x duration 63x+ lift cams out there that'll put down great numbers. I suggest that you figure out exactly what heads you plan on getting before deciding on a cam. Having a cam and head combo that works well together will put down far better numbers than a setup that does not work well together. There are plenty of writeups on head/cam combos, also a vendor such as Texas speed and performance or Tick can surely guide you in the right direction to achieve your goals.

Ofcourse you'll need hardened pushrods and stiffer springs are required for a cam swap. I would suggest that you go ahead and get your beater first and then save up for your cam,springs, and pushrods. A LS2 timing chain (which is quite a bit stronger than the LS1 chain) and is ~$40 and a better oil pump would be a really good idea also. A ported oil pump will do just fine, or the more expensive Melling oil pump IMO is a better piece. While doing the cam swap the chain and oil pump swap a simple, straight-forward task. The cam, chain, and oil pump should all be done at once. The valve springs should be done right after.
When doing your head swap go ahead andbuy LS7 lifters, they seem to be better.

I seem to ramble on a little bit on my posts but I am just trying to help.

I did my cam,chain,oil pump, and valve spring swap by following a write-up on "ls1howto.com" this is the most detailed and accurate cam swap write up I have came across and it made my cam swap a sucessful breeze. There are many good writeups on their website.

Btw, i have a 95 tacoma 2.4l 5speed standard with 179k miles, it burns no oil, A/C has never had to be recharged-that's 17 years, believe it or not!,it has plenty of power and gets great gas mileage, i did have to put a new rear end in it though, I went with a posi diff w/ 4.56 gears-wooohoo!. The Ford ranger is a great truck but it lacks power and gas mileage in the 4cyl verson. The 3.0 and 4.0 v6 has the power but reliability and gas mileage suffers!
Good luck! Hope this book I wrote you helped!

 

Thanks for the kind words BlacknYellow.

Also FWIW our cam package that includes Manley .080" wall 5/16" diameter push rods, Brian Tooley Racing Platinum springs good to .660" lift(0 reported failures since their creation in 2005) and any cam from our "Elite Camshaft Series" is 679.99 and if you end up with a custom grind that moves the price to 699.99.

 

both are good cams and u can do a 2800 stall.my buddy recently changed cams from a ms3 to a 224r..its his daily

 

i run an FMS F13 and absolutely love it in my 6.0L. 230/232 .595/.585 on a 112 +4....its awesome on the street and has power whenever you need. it can lug down below 2k and pulls hard all the way to my 6650rpm rev limiter. car is an m6 with a monster level 3 clutch.

 

[QUOTE=blacknyellow;16768680]The guys at Tick can set you up with a really good cam without a doubt. Tsp has some really good shelf cams that are ready to ship, 224r, 228r, or even the more agressive torquer V2.
You say it will be your DD until you get a beater (get a 95-97 4cyl tacoma for a beater) and you intend to put heads on it. I have seen the 224r, 228r and many other "small" cams put down good numbers..cam only and H/C alike.. However, assuming your looking for maximum power after you slap on your heads, you should go ahead and go with a larger cam such as a Torquer V2 (slightly larger than 228) or the V3. There are plenty of 23x duration 63x+ lift cams out there that'll put down great numbers. I suggest that you figure out exactly what heads you plan on getting before deciding on a cam. Having a cam and head combo that works well together will put down far better numbers than a setup that does not work well together. There are plenty of writeups on head/cam combos, also a vendor such as Texas speed and performance or Tick can surely guide you in the right direction to achieve your goals.

Ofcourse you'll need hardened pushrods and stiffer springs are required for a cam swap. I would suggest that you go ahead and get your beater first and then save up for your cam,springs, and pushrods. A LS2 timing chain (which is quite a bit stronger than the LS1 chain) and is ~$40 and a better oil pump would be a really good idea also. A ported oil pump will do just fine, or the more expensive Melling oil pump IMO is a better piece. While doing the cam swap the chain and oil pump swap a simple, straight-forward task. The cam, chain, and oil pump should all be done at once. The valve springs should be done right after.
When doing your head swap go ahead andbuy LS7 lifters, they seem to be better.

I seem to ramble on a little bit on my posts but I am just trying to help.

I did my cam,chain,oil pump, and valve spring swap by following a write-up on "ls1howto.com" this is the most detailed and accurate cam swap write up I have came across and it made my cam swap a sucessful breeze. There are many good writeups on their website.


Btw, i have a 95 tacoma 2.4l 5speed standard with 179k miles, it burns no oil, A/C has never had to be recharged-that's 17 years, believe it or not!,it has plenty of power and gets great gas mileage, i did have to put a new rear end in it though, I went with a posi diff w/ 4.56 gears-wooohoo!. The Ford ranger is a great truck but it lacks power and gas mileage in the 4cyl verson. The 3.0 and 4.0 v6 has the power but reliability and gas mileage suffers!
Good luck! Hope this book I wrote you helped![ /QUOTE]

Thx the tacoma seems like a good idea. I Jus need to make sure the cab is big enough because I have a 4yr old. So I mite need something with a bigger cab. If i get a beater il most likely get a trex cam with the heads

 

i have a feeling that a 227/230 .614 .609 114+3 would spark your interest and would work well with a 3200+ stall

 

I was thinking about this lately. W torquerV2 on 111 or 112 lsa. Any feedback? Thx in adv.
Precision Race Components Stg. 2.5 LS6 Heads & Cam Package
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1161-pr...am-package.asp

 

.bump

 

I've been hearing nothing but good things about Circle D .I contacted Chris and he recommended their 245mm Pro Series. Anyone have any experience with Circle? I was thinking Mayb a 3600? Any input

 

228/232 ftw.

 

Check out Howards cams too.
Ive used a lot of diff howards cams in diff combos and they are a good piece.
One I just did is the best driving. cheapest cam swap i've done besides re grinds back in the day, its a 98 z28 with just a 3000ptc stall and a howards 216/224 .551 114. stock LS6 yellow springs and howards pushrods and headers. it runs 7.80s.

Another one I like is howards 226/232 .587 .578 115. It hits, runs HARD and drives perfect. Makes 450rwhp in a 2010 camaro with just longtubes, 450rwhp in a ls2 vette with the cam and TEA stock ported heads. Both of these cams are completely DD friendly and dont choke on stock heads.