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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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so i did a search but couldnt find out if you have to flycut for the asa cam. anyone know for sure? this will be a cam car so no machining or nothing. also, ls6 spring should be fine right? whats the max lift on a ls6 spirng?
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rons 00z
so i did a search but couldnt find out if you have to flycut for the asa cam. anyone know for sure? this will be a cam car so no machining or nothing. also, ls6 spring should be fine right? whats the max lift on a ls6 spirng?
don't KNOW but I THINK it will fit IF you have stock heads. Most factory stuff is designed to work with other factory stuff.

yeah, LS6 springs will work with the ASA cam, though I would just pay the extra money and get the Comp 918s. If you ever want to do anything larger than the GM cams, you HAVE to upgrade to the 918s anyway and with them being able to work with more, they will have an EASY life with your ASA cam.
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:37 PM
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Once again, why go with an ASA cam when there are much better designs out there. The ASA cams are designed for the ASA series, not your car.
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DenzSS
Once again, why go with an ASA cam when there are much better designs out there. The ASA cams are designed for the ASA series, not your car.
...what he said....


the ASA cam is not a bad cam (seen some good numbers with it), but there are so many other cams that make MUCH more HP and drive better. If you don't mind the way the ASA cam drives, then go BIG and really get some HP.
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 11:50 PM
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i had the ASA for 6 months in my car, and this is what it is.... its an underpowered cam that has **** driving habits. wont idle, wont make the good power, for what it is. get the t-rex and call it a night

its a good little cam that SOUNDS good, but thats about it.

mike
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dazman
i had the ASA for 6 months in my car, and this is what it is.... its an underpowered cam that has **** driving habits. wont idle, wont make the good power, for what it is. get the t-rex and call it a night

its a good little cam that SOUNDS good, but thats about it.



mike

Did you have it tuned????
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:19 AM
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well i dont like the cost of the ls1 cams. any cam that is around or more than 400 bones is way too much for us to be paying. not sure about their r&d cost but man we're gettin killed here.

i dont want to spend an arm and a leg for one either. i plan on biulding a 388 or possibly bigger depending on when and how much these scat cranks are gonna be. so i dont really want to invest a truck load in a cam that may not be used in the new motor then in turn taking a bigger loss.

all im looking for is a nasty sounding cam that will get me good in the 12's (wishfully in the 11's but i doubt it) right now im runnin a 13.6@108 (did that in AZ) with only a cat back, asp, stealth lid and a ssra. currently im doing lt's and a ls6 intake so a cam is my next option.

i've heard these asa's work better in a m6 which i have so hopefully that wont be a problem. from what i dug up in the searches the stock tune is a hit or miss so hopefully it works if not i'll get a tune no biggie. i may end up going with this one but im not for certain. my big thing is no flycutting.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 09:46 AM
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400 bones is what you're going to be stuck with for any decent hydraulic roller cam, LS1 or any other platform.

If you're looking to run well into the 12s, learn to drive and get some sticky tires. With the rest of your mods, that is easily achievable. If M6, get 4.10s. If A4, get a converter.

The short end of the story is the ASA cam is junk. The camshaft is the brain of the engine. Pick a cam that fits your purpose.

If you want it to sound mean, pay a tuner to pull 15* of timing at idle and drop your idle rpm by 200.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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I've seen some good results with that cam, I debated trying it for awhile because of how easy it would be on the valvetrain. I think if you find a good tuner the drivability wouldn't be a problem. I know a guy with one on stock heads that drives perfect (M6) and is a monster on the street, lots of torque.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:15 PM
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true i do need some stickys and some 4.10's all my times were on the stock 245's thats another thing it's easy on valve train. so i'm assuming flycutting is a negative then.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bink
Did you have it tuned????
does a cat have a tail, and does a rat have climbing gear???


mike
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 01:55 PM
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The point is that you need to choose a cam based upon your needs and your setup. Choosing a cam based on what some other guy did with his car is insane. There are too many variables involved. If all you are out to do is make dyno numbers and make your car shake like Katerine Hepburn in a paintshaker, then pick up the ASA cam or Grans Am Cup cam, or whatever specific class designed cam-of-the-week is out there.

The ASA cam is designed for use with the GMPP LS6 heads and high rpm speedway racing. For what 99.9% of the people around here, that is an absolutely silly choice.

The same goes for the Hotcam. It is inexpensive, but it is also nothing more than a rehashed LT1 hotcam put out early in the Gen III cycle by GMPP. It is cheap, will put out OK power, but has all kinds of other problems. It is just a bad choice.

The difference between crap and pretty decent is at most $200. Just save your money and do it right. The days of slapping a "3/4 race" cam in your car off the shelf of your GM dealer are way in the past.

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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dazman
does a cat have a tail, and does a rat have climbing gear???


mike
Great reply, dazman!!!

DenzSS - But what if you wanted a nice, proven, roadracing cam? Then Grand Am cam would be a good choice??
joel
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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a guy on this board had this cam along with CNC heads.the car was an animal and was very streetable with tuning.



it didnt idle anywhere near stock but he drove it to the track.
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